A stand alone ecu or piggy-back should help you finish her off just fine. Sometimes you can also find a used stock re-flashed ecm. Or take yours to a performance shop and see if they will be able to re-flash your original.
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A stand alone ecu or piggy-back should help you finish her off just fine. Sometimes you can also find a used stock re-flashed ecm. Or take yours to a performance shop and see if they will be able to re-flash your original.
Maybe not under the hood but under the van. Espar diesel heater stopped working, turned out there was a solid block of ice in the line just before the muffler and in the muffler. Took the exhaust line off, heat cub and compressed air in the garage. Re ran the line so no low spots...hopefully I’m golden.
Of course it was at night on one of the coldest days we’ve had....
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I've got a problem with my 06 Durango 4.7 that I can't figure out that pretty much only happens when it's wet out. Driving along and all is well until bang, a violent buck/lurch and it shuts off. I pop it into neutral turn the key off and restart it and it's fine for a little while until the same thing happens again. Battery has been tested and it's fine, a little weak at 12.3 volts but otherwise seems to be ok. It doesn't have enough power though to test the alternator so I'm thinking the alternator has an issue but can't see where that would cause the buck and shutoff. There is a broken ground strap underneath that's either a body ground or goes up between the frame rail and body to somewhere nobody seems to be able to figure out. Possibly to the starter or battery? Would a bad ground to the starter cause the problem? It doesn't throw any codes and there's nothing stored in the computer to read so no help there.
Ideas? I'd love to figure this out so my wife feels comfortable driving the beast again.
A broken ground strap should be fixed. Not having the ground from engine to frame can lead to all sorts of problems including frying your computer in worst case. Fix your ground strap, then test voltage at the battery with the car idling. You should see 13.7-14v. That tells you your alternator and voltage regulator are working properly.
Step one is get the ground strap fixed asap. If you can't find where it is supposed to go, and it comes from the engine, find a secure bolt on the frame, and scrape it to bare metal, put some dielectric grease on it and attach it there. Make sure there is enough slack to allow for the engine to rock back and forth. Are you motor mounts toast. Why did the strap come loose to begin with? Sell Durango and get 4runner. Problem solved.
Haha yeah...
The ground wire has a short loop where it attaches to the frame rail and I think it got caught on something in the snow and broke. At this point I can't tell where it went to. I had someone take pictures and it goes up between the body and frame but no idea where it goes to from there, that's the problem. I went to 3 local shops and they laughed and said the same thing 'it's just a ground, don't worry about it' and wouldn't even look. At this point I think I'm going to have no choice but to go to the Dodge dealer and let them take care of it.
Uh, no, not really. The computer is sensing misfires beause the car is misfiring. Changing the ecu isn't going to change that and it's still going to hesitate and stutter and run like garbage even if it revs all the way to redline. And don't do that anyway. A race track is not the place to bring a car that is fucked and runs like shit. You'll be the guy that dumps a bunch of oil on the track and gets a whole session red flagged.
You can get a used replacement engine probably in as good or better condition for a couple hundred bucks. Maybe try that first.
Also, have you done a compression test? Is it blowing a shit ton of oil into the intercooler?
Not sure exactly how the 5100 compares to the fox but I do like Bilsteins (and am a dealer btw). The 5100 and 4600 have pretty much the same damping, but the 5100 gets you a shiny silver and blue shock and the standard ones have a little more travel to handle a 1-2" lift (but in a lot of applications the 4600 comes in different lengths too). The valving is firmer to handle bigger wheels and tires, stiffer springs, and more load than an oem shock generally.
Also, bilstein has a 5160 remote reservoir shock now too. You could consider those on the rear if you're going to have a bunch of extra weight. What truck/year? I want to say gmc HD trucks use the same shocks front and rear over a really wide year range though, like 1990 to present or something.
Check out how shiny they are:
https://imgur.com/9aqKGB4l.jpg
Twice as much as the standard 5100 though
Drool.....
Now that I'm looking at fox looks like the 2.0 performance is pretty much a direct competitor to the 5100, and then they have a remote reservoir version too, and then a single adjustable, and a 2-way that costs $1200.
Truck is an 06. Why must you show us these things? In no way do they help my bank account.
I had Bilstein 5100s on a 4 Runner, in order to use the adjustments to level the front end. From what I remember, the 5100 was supposed to be valve differently from the 4600 version.
I like Bilstein shocks. I've put them on 3 different vehicles and been happy with the results. I just bought a set of F Sport labeled Bilsteins for my Lexus IS ( can't buy them branded as Bilsteins). I'll install them sometime later when it's warmer. They've got to be an improvement over the stock Tokico shocks, which manage to be both harsh and floaty somehow.
Sorry, fancy car parts is kind of my thing.
But it's under 300usd for a full set of 4600 or 5100s. 5160s are like 190 a piece though.
For sedans and sports cars, koni yellows are my favorite. Spectacular on the 944 turbo, and absolutely perfect on the e34 540i. Ymmv.
My experience with land cruisers is that kyb is a very good budget oem style shock, really quite nice around town (80 series, no lift) but could be a little firmer off road. The fox 2.0 on my previous 80 (ome medium 2.5" springs) felt firmer all around, better off road but were not harsh on the street. The kyb are smoother around town.
I hear icon makes a great shock for a little more $ than the fox. Fox also has a remote reservoir for substantially more $,as does icon.
That's good info, I'll look at the intercooler, and do a compression test, but I doubt it because the intercooler is elevated above the engine. It doesn't run that terribly bad actually. The cheapest engines I've seen are about $1200 when I was considering continuing to drive the car, and that sounded like a crap-shoot for reliability. It's definitely too expensive to try out a couple of track days, although that means I shouldn't try racing in the long run. I could put the 2002 tires on the 2015 wrx, but I just don't want to thrash the new car on a race track. It's got to last at least a decade.
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The oil gets into your intercooler from the PCV system. With a poor ring seal, the excessive blowby is going to put a lot of oil into your intake. If that's occuring, there will be a good amount right at the outlet to the throttle body and in the TB coupler (and in the inlet and y-pipe and rest of the IC).
If there's not a bunch of oil there (you'll always get a light mist), then I would look at the coil packs. They're coming out to do the compression test anyway and they don't last forever. A guy I help out with rally stuff just had some misfire issues with his 02 wrx and the packs were basically falling apart. Might as well have some new plugs too. NGK iridium IX is the way to. BKR6EIX.
And actually you can't put the wheels from your 02 on the 15 wrx, well, unless they're aftermarket 17s and dual drilled for 5x100 and 5x114. WRX went to the STI hubs and bolt pattern finally and also has bigger brakes.
Any other questions you can email me if you want. peter at functionauto.com
Yeah, I was thinking the blow-by would stress the PVC system, but didn't know how that would affect the engine in general. Funny side story, I had a 90' VW Corrado that fell apart. I sold it while it blew white smoke out the exhaust and it would lose brake fluid, but it still passed smog and wasn't a head gasket issue. Vacuum leaks developed between engine and brake master cylinder and the engine sucked brake fluid into combustion chamber.
Another funny story about the coil packs on the '02 WRX. I seem to have to re-learn to buy OEM electrical parts on occasion. I replaced the coil packs with aftermarket ones. One day, the engine appeared to run on two cylinders. I opened the hood to see glowing red turbo as a couple coil packs failed, so it dumped fuel into the exhaust that combusted near the turbo. So, it currently has new coil packs. Oh, actually, I forgot, a mechanic did a compression test on the car. He didn't charge me since he felt bad telling me the car was done because of poor compression. I don't remember what the compression results were.
Oh, well, yeah, in that case not much you can do short of a replacement shortblock. It's kind of a vicious circle- the low compression is causing misfires, and the extra blowby putting more oil through the intake is just making it worse. Plus, oil coating the inside of your intercooler is bad for cooling, and oil being burned drops the octane rating. So more likely to knock, makes even less power, runs hotter. Recipe for a rod through the block and/or blown headgaskets if you go push it on a track.
You could try adding a catch can/air oil separator. That might reduce the misfiring a bit since you're at least getting cleaner and cooler charge air.
I drove that car occasionally pretty hard while the registration was still good so there's still a good chance it'll last a couple races. An air/oil separator sounds like a good idea. You gave me an idea too. How about I attach a large catch pan to the bottom of my engine bay to catch any oil or radiator fluid if the engine does decide to pop!
Yeah last time the battery needed to be replaced it did some strange things but not this. Maybe I'll throw a new one in and see what happens. What's the worst that happens, I spent $125 to replace a proven weak battery and still need to do more. I'd sure love to figure out what's up with that ground wire though. I think the dry day tomorrow means it's time to spend some time crawling around under there with a good light and get it figured out.
Well, it's been a while, but I stripped a tough to reach hex valve cover bolt. I have some good ideas to get it out, but most of them involve being able to hammer a torx or cheese head bit into it, and I'm not really going to be able to hammer anything into it because of where it it located. Fuck. I'm not going in there tonight.
weld an allen key to it?
also, I owe a huge "THANK YOU" to jamal for helping me out with my recent subie 2.2T rebuild. Dude went out of his way to help me find proper part numbers and gave experienced suggestions for machining clearances. I purchased some aftermarket bits from his business (rods, pistons, bearings) and was very satisfied with experience.
The motor is broken in now and I've been having so much fun tearing around in the lil battle wagon. Half shitbox, half awd turbo zoomer!
Thanks jamal. I'll put up some pics after I do the brakes... (so maybe this summer ;0)
Cause the breaks will make it look so much nicer. Good work.
So what you are saying is, this is my opportunity to justify a welder? There is a fuel line right near by... I guess that can be removed... Fuck. I hate stripping bolts.
You're welcome, I'm glad it all worked out and is running well.
Oh, and fun story- I've been working on my own compression ratio calculator for subarus and threw in the info for the 22t. The wisecos were definitely a better choice over the JEs based on the numbers I'm getting for quench height and CR.
Replaced the Chinese axles on the old Outback with Subaru axles today. One of the outside boots was apparently completely full of water causing intermittent loud vibrations. I am done with parts store axles on all my cars (Yotas and Suba's)
Rebooted and regreased an original axle I had on the shelf with a Subaru boot and ordered in a Subaru remanufactured axle. I had one replaced on a trip and lost the core when the Subaru dealer in JH put in a Chinese axle.
Good as new now.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...098bbd9c16.jpg
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You tubes has the boot change videos. Super easy job. If it takes you more than 20 minutes you're just playing with the shaft. Laughable that some peeps in various forums complain it took them half the day. Surprised I haven't done it before considering I have tackled much more difficult projects. That is the ticket when the inner boot cracks...replace boot with oem and regrease....done.
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Who has the good powder coater in Salt Lake? I have a pile of parts to go.
Attachment 226754
Hard to get the boot on without taking it apart. That is the major issue. You can leave the axle in the car for the inner boot swap (still taking the axle apart) but on a Subaru the axle is so easy to remove I don't know why you would do that since cleaning it on the bench is a snap.
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I think we figured out the gremlin I had in my Durango. The cowl.under the wipers drains water right onto the PCM. Apparently a previous owner tried to solve the problem and jury rigged some wiring and it was corroded and shorting out when it got wet. The mechanic cleaned that up, reconnected everything correctly with gobs of dielectric grease on all connections and fashioned a cover to divert water away from the sensitive areas.
I had been under there a while back but didn't realize what I was looking at so it cost me 2 batteries and a couple of extra hours of labor but he's confident the problem is solved for good.
One of our front outer cv boots is spitting grease, but no tear. Debating between shooting some grease back inside and adding a new clamp or just replacing both axles preemptively (130k on them)