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I’ve toured in RS130s, ZBs, RS140s, etc, if you leave the top 2 buckles open (totally loose and hanging down, same with the power strap, it’s not actually terrible. It’s not Dynafit TLT6 elf shoe nice, but when you ski down it’s often worth it. I personally haven’t gone on a tour longer then 1.5-2 hours in my race style boots, but with your unique issues, it wouldn’t be a bad option.Quote:
Originally Posted by pyromaniacman129
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Full Tilt Ascendant come in a 30.5. I have a buddy who has them, seems to like them.
Question that hopefully someone here can help out with. Got my CAST system, got my bindings, have two boots I plan to run. Atomic Hawx Ultra for resort days and Hawx Ultra XTD for touring days. The BSL is actually different by 2mm on the 28.5s I have, 320mm and 322mm. I know the pivots should have enough room to adjust but should I be doing anything special when I go to mount? If I am using the template and put the BSL as close to 321 or on 320 (between the two boots bsl's of 320 and 322) I should be good to go right??
I can click into my pivots with my Lange XT Frees @ 306bsl and Head Raptor 140RS @ 301bsl with out any adjustment. I’d mount your Pivots for 320 and forget about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Parkinsteez
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Aren't the Raptors 303mm?Quote:
Originally Posted by skibrd
Anyway, yeah, that's close enough that I'd be comfortable just setting up for the 320 boot and calling it good.
🤷♂️ I thought they were 301, but does it really matter with Pivots? Maybe this is why I could never get Shifts to work, I’m not that detail oriented.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
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Lol probably not. I could go downstairs to check mine but that sounds like a lot of work.Quote:
Originally Posted by skibrd
In any case, I've got my CAST setups toggling between Hawx XTDs and Raptor 140 RSs with just an AFD swap.
I’d check mine too, but they are 2000 miles away.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
That sounds like a nice set up. I’m going with something similar, just need to decided if I’m keeping my XT Free Pros or getting a pair of XT3s.
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320 it is! Appreciate the help!
Just got my first pair mounted up by the shop... Noticed that one of the shoulder bolts is slightly off kilter resulting in one alpine toe being slightly stiffer to remove than the other. Doesn't seem to be any additional stiffness on the tech toe when removing. Dry runs of clicking boots into both the touring and alpine modes and releasing seem to operate totally normal. At this point it doesn't seem like a big deal to me, but since I'm new to these things, just wondering if there may be some unforseen issue that could arise?
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MOUNT YOUR OWN FUCKING SKISQuote:
Originally Posted by beeeom
Yerrr gunna die.
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It'll be fine. Slight wear and rear will smoothen it. If not, and it's annoying enough you can remove the front piece and remount in the same holes pr instructions given earlier in the threadQuote:
Originally Posted by beeeom
Ya ya ya chirp chirp chirp but paper and a ruler and my sloppy ass aren't dialed enough for a cast Mount
That's what I was hoping to hear! Thanks!:smoking:Quote:
Originally Posted by sf
Any tips or tricks for keeping the fooking brakes locked when touring??? Holy hell they must have popped out like 80 times today. Seemed to happen less when I snapped the dildo "up"...
Other than that pretty clean for a first try today! So nice to drop in on actual bindings \m/
that shouldn't happen somethings not rightQuote:
Originally Posted by beeeom
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There is a lip/notch on the CAST brake retainer. If that notch doesn't line up with with the metal step on the underside of the Pivot brake, then the two will not interface and your brake will keep popping up. The dildo of the heel piece has nothing to do with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by beeeom
You likely did not lined up the 2-screw CAST brake retainer / heel lift assembly correctly on install. It's okay, I've made this mistake in the past... and obviously remounting is not an option. To fix this, I took a dremel and made the gap between them metal step on the Pivot brake a bit bigger so that the CAST lip fully connects.
Alternatively, buy a ski strap. Best of luck and happy dremel'ing.
I always carry the rubber band that came with mine for times when the brake retainer might get a little tweaked in the field. I use it to keep the toe pieces together in my pack. Not sure current production comes with a band, but a Voile strap or similar would work.
I cranked down the the star bolts that connect the brake lock to the heel block, so now the whole mechanism is much, much stiffer than it was. Hopefully this additional force is enough to overcome the tendency for the brakes to release.
if its working properly it's difficult to disengage. sounds like your shop fucked upQuote:
Originally Posted by beeeom
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Got my Cast setup on a pair of ON3P Wren 108s. Loving it so far!
Anyone with experience of using the CAST system with QK/BF inserts? I've been asked to mount some skis with both for a customer. I've done thousands of bindings mounts including a few CAST systems and installed thousands of inserts but not done a CAST with inserts. I don't yet have the CAST kit in my possesion to play with but I'm concerned that with the M5 insert screws being a tad smaller in diameter than a regular binding screw that they might introduce some play in the shoulder bolts/studs? Or does the fact that the mounting screws are well countersunk in to the shoulder bolts/studs and they're sitting on the metal base plate give sufficient support/stability etc?
Feedback appreciated.
I would reach out to Lars and Silas on this one. I believe they mount their's with inserts. Their contact should be available on the cast site or you could pm me and I'll send it to youQuote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
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I have done thanks but wanted to check here as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher
The boys use helicoils, not QK/BF inserts. The helicoils don’t create issues with CAST if you put them in correctly, aka they don’t stick out. Maybe suggest helicoils to your customer?
Side note, I don’t believe Lars and Silas can ski with out helicoils, bindings tend to fall out for them with out the extra purchase into the core [emoji23]
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Inserts are fine if you mount them straight. The tophats are located by the countersunk head anyway, not the shank of the screw. Any extra space there isn't going to matter.
Yep, that was my thinking too.Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB
It probably makes more sense to use heli coils then have two sets of the toe plates rather than use inserts on the toes. Not sure about the heels. Maybe still insert them.
The CAST guys probably wouldn’t have that same issue since, well, they’re spancered.
Hold the phone, maybe not right place to ask - but are pivot 14 and 18’s the same mount pattern?
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Not quite what you are looking for, but what I do is mount the toes normally on both skis, then use BF inserts for the heels and risers. Not quite as elegant for packing multiple sets of planks, but cheap enough and quick to swap since the toe pieces are already detachable.
Might that be an option for your customer?
14s and 18s as well as 15’s have the same hole pattern.Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnwriter
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There is no play/stablity issue in my experience. I've detailed my mount in post #373. Everything is holding up well so far with the inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyderjon
Best Regards,
Momchil ;)
Thanks! I assumed that was the case. Which was dumb.Quote:
Originally Posted by skibrd
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Thanks bud, that's great. Didn't realize that banzai was you. Now I know why you wanted the metal jig!Quote:
Originally Posted by banzai
I was playing around with the tech toe and noticed that the pins were not clamping the boot tight. It is so loose I can remove the boot without spreading the pins. When I looked closer I can see that the two silver metal tabs near the springs are hitting the shoulder on the tower mounts. I would think I would try to bend them slightly but didn’t want to screw them up. I apologize in advance if this has been covered before.
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I ran into that issue last year. They suggested not bending the little wings and to just brute force it down, basically shaving a hair or chamfering the top of the shoulder. That worked for one of my toes, but not the other. I ended up filing the shoulder a bit and adding the chamfer myself. As you use them, it sort of settles into place.
Thanks. I was so focused on the tech toe sliding on and off the mount I didn’t think to check things with the boot locked in. Glad I caught it before taking them out for a spin.
I know there is the recommendation when mounting to get the shoulder screws almost all the way in and then slide in the tech toe and tighten. I may have missed it but it makes sense to have the pins locked in the touring position when doing the final tightening of the shoulder screws
It is okay to bend the tabs back/inside a bit until you have clearance. We went as tight as we felt could this year to get rid of any play in the toe while touring. It doesn't leave much room for variance in the mount though. Bending them in won't cause any issues and shouldn't take much at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by phatboy64
As far as inserts go, we've had a lot of folks use QK/BF with no negative feedback there. It seems like as long as the M5 machine screws are snug the countersink keeps them aligned and in place fine. Personally we recommend heli coils and use them fairly rarely, they just seem to be less prone to failure. Pretty much personal preference there. We ski solid wood core skis and have never ripped a binding out, swapping bindings around often.
Sorry to not stay more up to date on here but seems like you're all getting by ok. Cheers everyone. Thanks for the support.
Thanks for all the support! I took your advice and bent the tabs a bit more, boots drop in fine now and tech toe is tight... all is good!Quote:
Originally Posted by silaschickeringayers
I'm kind of a weenie about binding ramp, and I'm thinking about making some toe shims to flatten out my CAST setups a little bit. 1/8" (~3.2mm) would work nicely for my needs. If I made a batch, would anybody else be interested? Pricing would be significantly dependent on how many I end up doing but I can quote it out if there's interest.
That would give you a slightly positive delta angle. The CAST toes are already 2mm higher than the DIN pivot afd(5mm drop).Quote:
Originally Posted by HAB