New Marker Tech touring binding 20/21?

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Originally Posted by SoVT Joey

the Dins run true and you should be fine with 11. You know that a cast setup is actually lighter by like 50 grams then the duke pt 12 set up correct?

I still don’t like the heel of the 12 and the 16 is way more stout and is the one I ski, my other half skis a 12 on a 5 din. She hasn’t had a problem with them though.

I would put a m-werks kingpin on that katana v werks and ski the shit out of it.

we don’t mention shift in this thread btw. You can’t spell shift with out shit.

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Beauty, thanks for this SoVT Joey. Yah, starting to think this is a terrible plan. Was thinking about standing on top of Gonorrhea or Syphilis or any other scary (to me) first turn, in a Squire heel...Yah, maybe not. Only way this makes sense is if I keep my CMD 108/CAST setup, and use the VWerks for mellower/further stuff. But then I'll never grab the VWerks, and then I may as well go with a Kingpin M-Werks, or something lighter (Ill research these further, thanks).
Re PT 12 weight, was more looking at the 'up' weight with the alpine toe in my bag (850g stated) vs a Shift (886?). Maybe I just eat the weight savings, go with CAST or a PT 16, use it to get in shape, and enjoy those first turns. God damn science. Thanks for talking me off the ledge! Time to eat a gummy, pour another coffee, and overanalyze this for a few more hours (read: weeks).

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Originally Posted by Sylvan

Beauty, thanks for this SoVT Joey. Yah, starting to think this is a terrible plan. Was thinking about standing on top of Gonorrhea or Syphilis or any other scary (to me) first turn, in a Squire heel...Yah, maybe not. Only way this makes sense is if I keep my CMD 108/CAST setup, and use the VWerks for mellower/further stuff. But then I'll never grab the VWerks, and then I may as well go with a Kingpin M-Werks, or something lighter (Ill research these further, thanks).
Re PT 12 weight, was more looking at the 'up' weight with the alpine toe in my bag (850g stated) vs a Shift (886?). Maybe I just eat the weight savings, go with CAST or a PT 16, use it to get in shape, and enjoy those first turns. God damn science. Thanks for talking me off the ledge! Time to eat a gummy, pour another coffee, and overanalyze this for a few more hours (read: weeks).

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uphill is closer to 890 anyway. Marker lied. Who would of thought another ski company lying about a weight. Surprise surprise.

I quiver killed a nocta for a duke pt 16 and a kingpin. It’s pretty nice. But the weight difference is big. I double ejected out of my kingpins this year, it put a lot more trust in them for me. It was definitely a situation where I thought they should come off and they did, after that I felt a lot more comfortable skiing on them, but I still prefer the duke pt when I’m about to do something really dumb.

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Originally Posted by 1000-oaks

The 16 is quite a bit heavier than the 12, but the Squire heel on the 12 has a lower dildo pivot (to lower the DIN range) so not as much vertical elasticity, especially with an AT boot that has a taller heel lug than an alpine boot.

For best of both worlds, on my PT12's I swapped heels with my 2021 Griffons (which have the new easier-entry heel). The Griffons mostly see use with alpine boots, so the Squire heel is fine. The PT12's get used with ZeroG boots, so the Griffon heel clamps down on the lug a lot more solidly than the Squire heel did.

Marker should have offered a PT13 with the Griffon heel instead of the PT12 with Squire heel, but they were competing with the Shift on weight. Can't blame them for that, makes sense from a marketing perspective.

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From what I read, this is plug and play as mount pattern is the same. Can you please confirm? Just unscrew PT12 heel piece screw in Griffon? Do brakes from PT fit Griffon heel or you just use standard Griffon brake and rubber band brake up?

PT heels, brakes, and heel tracks are interchangeable with Royal family heels, brakes, and tracks. Only difference is PT track is longer and allows a lot more adjustment.

Quick brake question on the Duke PTs.... mounting up a pr of Black Crow Atris' and they are 108 underfoot. QWhich brake should I go for? go 100s or 125s? Wish they had an option in between..... Leaning towards the 125s as I never had much luck with bending the brakes and let alone having the skis clamp together w/ bent brakes

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Originally Posted by goCougs

I've heard 106 is about the widest you can get away with.

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This sounds about right. 107 underfoot I never mounted was going to be too tight w/o bending 100s, 99 underfoot fit 100s, and 113 under 125s.

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Originally Posted by GravityDT

Quick brake question on the Duke PTs.... mounting up a pr of Black Crow Atris' and they are 108 underfoot. QWhich brake should I go for? go 100s or 125s? Wish they had an option in between..... Leaning towards the 125s as I never had much luck with bending the brakes and let alone having the skis clamp together w/ bent brakes

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If I was unable to verify b4 purchase I would err up. The brakes tuck away nicely once above the top sheet, and I'd also be concerned about bending them too much due to the way the brake interacts with the heel system. YMMV and all that.

I have the 100mm Duke PT 16 brake on 104mm Ravens. No bending was required. Fits real close with no sticking. I would concur that ~106mm ish would be the max for the 100mm without bending/grinding?

Attachment 431414


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125nn it is then. Thanks All[emoji869][emoji869]


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Originally Posted by goCougs

Just found another fucked up thing from Marker: https://skimo.co/marker-duke-pt-crampons

They make the crampons in either 105 or 125. Clear as mud

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I mean that’s pretty clear. Waist less then 105 gets a 105, waist less then 125 gets a 125. Why would you put anything on anything bigger. And if you are a weight weenie you are looking at shit from the wrong company. I think their crampons are great and have both widths.

i also have plums for my light set ups and have their crampons too. They are lighter for sure.

I run 100mm brakes on a 108 Atris with the plastic ground off the insides. I don’t recommend it. The brakes do tuck away nicely and the 125 brake works just fine.

My Duke PT 16s were never able to keep a pin tech boot locked into the toe piece while in tour mode. My local shop checked the width of the inserts in the Dalbello Lupo boots that I had purchased at the same time as the bindings and when referenced back to Dalbello found that they were slightly more narrow than they should have been. The local shop warrantied the boots and the brand new Lupos did the same thing. I tried my buddy's Salomon 4-buckle boot and he was able to twist out of the pin tech toe as well. He is unable to twist out of the Duke PT 16s that are mounted on his skis.

Has anyone experienced or seen examples of this happening? Going back to the local shop tomorrow to discuss -- the problem was first discovered immediately after the first use about one year ago. I'd love to just throw money at this problem and have it disappear. I would love even more if Marker or the local shop would be willing to do the same.

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Originally Posted by swimmonzzz

My Duke PT 16s were never able to keep a pin tech boot locked into the toe piece while in tour mode. My local shop checked the width of the inserts in the Dalbello Lupo boots that I had purchased at the same time as the bindings and when referenced back to Dalbello found that they were slightly more narrow than they should have been. The local shop warrantied the boots and the brand new Lupos did the same thing. I tried my buddy's Salomon 4-buckle boot and he was able to twist out of the pin tech toe as well. He is unable to twist out of the Duke PT 16s that are mounted on his skis.

Has anyone experienced or seen examples of this happening? Going back to the local shop tomorrow to discuss -- the problem was first discovered immediately after the first use about one year ago. I'd love to just throw money at this problem and have it disappear. I would love even more if Marker or the local shop would be willing to do the same.

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First off, it’s been going on for a year and you are just dealing with it?

Second, google MDV New Hampshire, call them, option 2 for parts and warranty. (Be nice, there is one guy working in parts and warranty and he’s a really good guy, if you are nice he will take care of you)

Third, how much force are you putting on it to twist it out? Are you doing it while fully locked in the third position up on the toe?

Started the process a year ago and the shop believed the problem was boots.

Thanks so much for the contact suggestion — that is great info!

Normal torsional pressure is enough to release the boot and it was that way since day one. Ended up buying another pair to mount now while going through warranty. Shop guy thinks the casting of the toe piece looks defective.

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Originally Posted by swimmonzzz

Started the process a year ago and the shop believed the problem was boots.

Thanks so much for the contact suggestion — that is great info!

Normal torsional pressure is enough to release the boot and it was that way since day one. Ended up buying another pair to mount now while going through warranty. Shop guy thinks the casting of the toe piece looks defective.

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is that the same shop guy that thought your boot was defective too? In about 30 seconds on a bench with a different pair of boots a good tech could tell you what’s wrong. is there only one ski shop where you live?

but it sounds like your lock out levers aren’t engaging, the lockout levers were snapping off and not working correctly on the first generation.

marker is usually very quick with warranty stuff. I had kingpin parts two days after calling them.

Anybody have 125mm brakes that wants 100mm brakes?

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Originally Posted by Eluder

Anybody have 125mm brakes that wants 100mm brakes?

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I just traded with 1000-oaks. He said he bought another pair of 125s but he still did the trade. He'll have two pairs soon, so....

Quick question. Are they the year of the toe wing breaks? Or are these the run after that? How can I tell? Am I gonna die?Attachment 449565

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Originally Posted by Spyderjon

Sorry but I lied!

There is a way to tell the difference between the two toe bindings. The replacement/2nd gen toes have an asterix at the end of the part number on the left pin arm, as per the pic below:

Attachment 384285

If you have toe bindings without the asterix at the end of the part number (or totally blank, ie no number at all) then you should get your supplying Marker retailer to exchange them.

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^🤙

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Originally Posted by SupreChicken

Quick question. Are they the year of the toe wing breaks? Or are these the run after that? How can I tell? Am I gonna die?Attachment 449565

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call MDV warranty and parts and they will ask for the serial # on the toe piece.

Does any one have experience with that combo? The reason I'm asking is that I have problem fitting radicals to griffons (2021, 13 ID). No matter how much I lowering the ADF plate ( by turning the adjustment screw clockwise) it's still in firm contact with sole. Similar problem at the heel due to high rant on those boots. Wondering if Duke PT have bigger height adjustment range for touring boots.

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Originally Posted by igordik

Does any one have experience with that combo? The reason I'm asking is that I have problem fitting radicals to griffons (2021, 13 ID). No matter how much I lowering the ADF plate ( by turning the adjustment screw clockwise) it's still in firm contact with sole. Similar problem at the heel due to high rant on those boots. Wondering if Duke PT have bigger height adjustment range for touring boots.

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I have a Duke PT 16 on one pair, Jester with ID toes on another and Radical Pro boot that I can try at home and report back

Edit: they definitely sit firmly on the AFD even when it's lowered down. I can push it under the toe but it won't return back.

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Originally Posted by Robik

I have a Duke PT 16 on one pair, Jester with ID toes on another and Radical Pro boot that I can try at home and report back

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Thanks in advance!

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Originally Posted by Robik

Edit: they definitely sit firmly on the AFD even when it's lowered down. I can push it under the toe but it won't return back.

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Thank you! is heel positively engaged, or have problem grabbing the rant?

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Originally Posted by igordik

Thank you! is heel positively engaged, or have problem grabbing the rant?

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Heel looked solid and no play that I noticed

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Anyone have thoughts about ramp delta or is it just me? I just changed a ski from Pivots on the line to Duke PT 12s at +0.7 cm; felt like a double whammy of having more ramp and also less ski in front of the boot, I was overdriving them a bit and struggling with balance.

I don’t think there are any toe shims out there? I’m gonna try my boots with less forward lean … would hate to move the Dukes to -something as that would be the fourth mount on these skis.

Is anyone able to measure the toe screw length if you have any unmounted Duke PTs sitting around?

I did some hasty measurements of the toe and heel AFD heights and I got 20mm toe (with my AFD set for my Cochise 120 GW boots) and 25mm heel for roughly 5mm of binding ramp delta. Not bad all things considered, much less than I thought it would be.

Did the same measurements on the Pivot Dual WTR bindings that I had on the same ski and got 18mm toe and 20mm heel for roughly 2mm of ramp delta.

I think I'm going to shim the Duke toe by 3mm and would need to order longer screws. I can always measure my own screws, but I'm still planning on skiing these skis for a few more weeks and don't want to mess with them just yet.