Follow up that they got my tires on a couple days late but without issue. And driving on ice then snow on fresh studs is always sweet.
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Follow up that they got my tires on a couple days late but without issue. And driving on ice then snow on fresh studs is always sweet.
Good for you, studs are prob the best call for Bogus. I have a saga and I'm at war w Gill's Point S.Quote:
Originally Posted by Conundrum
What are you all running for tire pressure on your Load E/ten ply?
Studded LT3 currently at 65 front and 70 rear.
I am not towing nor hauling heavy currently and think I could get away with running much less pressure for better traction and softer ride. Thinking of 60 all-around
I run 65 unloaded, almost 80 geared up.
TPMS warning threshold on my truck is 60psi. I start at 65psi cold. My last truck had the threshold reprogrammed lower. I ran those at 55psi.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
I bumped those to 65psi when hauling/towing. I'm never really near max payload where 75-80 is called for.
I’m running 64 front and 67 rear on Studless Hakka LT3s (at 40F); door sticker for my gasser is 65 psi all around, I’ve scaled my truck mid winter when towing and I’m around 4300-4500 lbs on the steer axle and around 4500-4800 lbs on the drive axle, kind of varies a bit but usually around 9000-9200 combined.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hood26
I’m sure 60 psi unloaded would be fine.
The Hakka LT3 can be a little wandering when overinflated - I tried it at 75 psi once and it wasn’t great. On the flip side, the LT3 doesn’t have the stiffest sidewalls so it gets some flex when loaded. When I’m towing I actually have my Rancho shocks set to maximum damping because the Hakka sidewall flex is so noticeable when the trailer tongue (between 700 and 1000 lbs) is bouncing around or pushing on that rear axle.
It’s too bad Nokian doesn’t publish load capacity inflation charts like other manufacturers. It’s good to know how much margin you have above the rated capacity and speed at each PSI.
Load ratings are an industry standard. You can use the chart from any manufacture, or you can play with the calculator here:Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
https://tiresize.com/pressure-calculator/
If you have a Ford, it's pretty easy to reprogram those PSI thresholds to whatever you want, or turn them off completely, using Forscan.Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowMachine
I swear I’ve seen minor differences in load index at max psi between different manufacturers, but I could be smoking crack there.Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong
So it seems like if load rating is same or similar at a given psi, then do differences in construction have a larger bearing on speed rating at that load capacity?
Seems pretty simple to me that with a big ass truck, you load up your shit (or not), look at your tires, you drive down the road and see how it feels, you have a general idea of what it says on the sidewall (given you have the tires for the job in the first place), and then you set your psi for the load, temps, altitude, and conditions as necessary. It's not a graph, and it's not rocket science.
I'm on my second Ram. The first had a crazy high threshold. I think it was 70. I reprommed it to 50. The new truck threshold is 60, I believe. The coil spring Rams ride so well that a 35" tire on 18" wheels is totally comfortable at 65psi. I'll probably leave this one alone.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
FWIW, I now have 2k miles in "variable" conditions (all Tahoe area miles). The K03 is pretty impressive. I'd say every bit the equal to the AT3W. Now I just need to see if they last as well.
Edit: this was suppose to be a reply to Schralph.Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowMachine
Speed rating, I believe, has a lot to do with carcass construction. It needs to not deform so much that internal friction leads to damaging heat, and it needs to be strong enough to withstand the increasing centripetal forces as speeds increase.
Article on load ratings:
https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-gar...0load%20tires.
Schralph, maybe you looking at p-metric and metric charts, which would be different?
The article also notes that ‘select’ LT tires don’t conform to standard max load pressure ratings.
On my 5th winter with a set of Hakka's. I'm not sure how many miles but probably 30-40k. Have put 92k on the truck over the period of time since purchasing them. Had a little trouble starting after stopping on a steep icy hill last weekend but otherwise still seem "ok". Down to about 50% tread and plan to replace them next fall. Seems like all of the local shops are out of my size this year anyway except studded which I'd prefer not to have. I've run 2 sets of Blizzaks prior to these and only get 2-3 winters so I'm pretty impressed with the Haks.
Kind of funny story, our SAR team was paged out last March and had to get to a snowed in trailhead. The 4x4 team also responded and some jacked up jeeps were getting stuck on their big mud terrain tires. They were a little embarrassed when I pulled in driving a stock F150 and offered to pull them out.
Hakka LT3 or SUV?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco
50% overall tread, or 50% on the snow traction indicators?
I’ve got 3 winters on studless Hakka LT3s, so maybe 18-20k miles. One pair is only worn about 25% for indicated snow traction (the 80% markers just recently disappeared) and the other pair is worn just shy of 50% (the 60% markers just recently disappeared). I was rotating them properly until last winter when a 7-pin corrosion issue was limiting trailer braking power and the truck’s front tires were doing most of the braking down our steep winding passes.
Seems like I will be able to get 40k out of them before the snow traction indicators disappear, that’s not bad at all!
LT275/70R18 weighing about 8-9000 lbs.
First four hundred miles and I’m very impressed with the Nokian Outpost AT on my van. Much quieter than the Falken AT Three W’s I had on before (~fifteen thousand miles). Every bit as quiet as the stock continentals too.
Very excited to see how they do off-roading in Utah, and then driving in the snow in CO, Utah, and Tahoe. Will be a great test, about twenty five hundred miles round trip from CA to CO and back
I'm not sure I totally believe you or maybe their mud tires were shot or overinflated. At 4-8psi a locked jeep on good mud tires goes anywhere except packed ice. Not remotely a close comparison. Everyone that has ever done a 4X4 recovery should know how to set their rig up. On a plowed FS road, sure a snow tire is going to be better. Conditions matter. I've been embarrassed by a Subaru before when I was in my F250 on brand new snow tires.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco
This week we had 4" snow followed by rain. It was nasty. I drove a newer X5 on Blizzak LM001's to a customer's house and then drove my Jeep on 37" Toyo MT's home. The Jeep felt like the better tool, but they were both awful. The X5 stopped better, but could hardly climb the road to their house. The Jeep climbed the hill fine, but was tough to get stopped.
Every day driving on snow is different.
I'm fascinated to hear more about the performance of the AT. It looks like a good tire.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggydude
I've got enough drive time on the new Falken AT4W that I can no longer give it my blessing. It SUCKS on ice. Such a sad replacement for the 3W that was great in LT size/ratings. I've now run it on Sprinters, 3/4 ton trucks and SUV's. No Bueno.
I think the K03 is my current AT rec when possible.
Got k03 for my boys taco. Up and down the canyons
Says it’s good.
Ice? Fack. Only studs work on that. But for a year round tire k03 seems to be the best right now.
I’ll be driving it in a few weeks. Might have to upgrade my own rig if it’s as good as they say.
Having snow grip without summer wear seems impossible. But we can dream.
Got about 3000 miles on the Nokian Outpost AT’s
Very quiet and smooth on the highway. Considerably quieter than Falken AT3W. Wandered a bit the first 1000 miles til they broke in and I lowered air pressure a bit. Good now.
Stellar offroad in Moab
I’d give them a very good rating in snow. I will say they seem to slip a little more braking than my Falken AT3W’s, but it’s predictable and still quite good for a 8500lb van. Lateral traction slight nod to Falkens too, acceleration I couldn’t really tell a difference. Overall id definitely recommend them, even if the Falkens were still slightly better (but discontinued now so a moot point).
That being said, I’m debating if I should just get a dedicated winter set of tires. I only commute from the Bay Area to Tahoe and back in the winter in the van, no other driving or daily commute. First 175 miles are usually dry or wet pavement at 40-55 degrees, so they might wear a bit faster, but not too bad.
Could get a full set of new Nokian Hakka LT3’s with some stock steelie wheels all mounted up for $880 total out the door. No brainer? I put around 6-7000 miles on the van every winter, including a round trip from CA to CO and back at Christmas
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Do this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggydude
My only concern might be if the snow tires might get real squirmy in warmer temps/pavement with a 10,000lb van(still have more buildout to complete)? I’d obviously get the right Load rated E tires, but I’ve heard reports of the softer winter tread itself causing weird behavior in warmer weather max of 65 F though so maybe not an issue)
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At 7000 miles per year on the winter tire set, under a 10K van, expect to get two winters out of a set. And they will feel squirmy in warm temps - - my 3/4-ton truck with a pop up camper was probably around 8000#, and it was noticeably squirmy on winter tires.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggydude
I'll chime in with my experience running Blizzak LT's (LRE) on my Promaster. I'm probably ~7500 lbs or less fully loaded. I start noticing the softer winter tires squirming around 55F. The few times I drove it in temps approaching 70F, it was a clear difference from my all season summer tires. I felt that I needed to reduce speeds when cornering due to the handling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Muggydude
wow ! this ^^guy is a fucking geniusQuote:
Originally Posted by snowaddict91