Printable View
Anecdotal "evidence" is not evidence.Quote:
Originally Posted by djhutch
Well, it's a great time for having choices, and I have to confess that I've been tempted by the MTN. Then, I remember that I'm an old fart, and that I'd prefer to minimize the possibility of having to endure a long healing period.
6-8-10-12 are too coarse adjustment settings for my comfort level.
... Thom
The percentage between the numbers you mentioned is not that great. It's probably similar to what you get from release baked stamped on adjustable pin bindings.Quote:
Originally Posted by galibier_numero_un
Hell, on a pair of g3 ions the sticker that showed the release values was not glued properly and it kept moving.
And this is true for alpine bindings as well.
Unless you test the release values, you don't know.
Does it matter?
No, because the din tables have enough of a safety factor.
If you're really worried, test your bindings and test your bone density. Very easy and inexpensive to do and then you know.
In my case, even though I'm 73, my bone density is similar to a 22 year old male, so I'm not worried about using the E u spring on my MTNs, also because I'm more worried about a pre release than about falling.
Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk
anybody know whats the din value of a meniscus or a tib or a fib ?
I'll tell you what IS high in this thread and its the bulshit value
Well, I set my release values by carpet testing and then fine tuning on the hill - usually a day riding lifts before heading out.Quote:
Originally Posted by rod9301
Agreed, that the numbers are meaningless. I dialed in 3 pairs of ATKs this Summer, and arrived at lateral settings ranging from 8.5 to 9.5, with differences between the same pair (left and right). Boot wear? Binding differences? Beats me.
So, the MTN RVs are more like 6,7,8,9? 8,9,10,11? I find that difficult to believe. Someone's going to be way out of range at one end of the range or the other.
I don't want to be that guy (screaming that sky is falling), but at the same time, I want to present an alternative view - one that makes more sense to me but obviously not everyone
... Thom
ime the hash marks on rads and verts correlate to pretty much the DIN I would ski on alpine bindings and they do release when they should, not quite as safe as an alpine binding but close, of course they are old but still fine IMO
I can't remember tib/fib, but it's in the same Wildsnow article if you really want to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
Easy brakeless conversion if you have an old set of p12s kicking around. Remove heel plate and brakes, shorten screws, mount jacked apart p12 AFD for flat touring mode and support whilst skiing. Fits perfect. Picture is with plate still on so there is a small gap. Attachment 436158
I have about 150ish days on a pair of MTN’s.
This season I am noticing a lot of play in the heel turret. It’s a couple MM of
wobble.
I’m guessing this is just normal wear and tear but does anyone know if I remove the binding if this can be tightened down?
Top of the previous pageQuote:
Originally Posted by Tailwind
well… I feel dumb for missing that.
thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eluder
A longer boot means you need a lower din to stay in.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
It happens often, solution is to remove the heel assembly and tighten it.
Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk
Is there a solution to the brake mechanism switching to ski mode almost every time I bump the brake arm with my other ski. Happens to me multiple times per outing.
Anyone want to swap the brake-less plastic heel baseplate for a pair of 110mm MTN brakes/baseplate? I can just cut them off and mount a freeride spacer directly but that seems foolish if someone has the right brake-less baseplate and wants brakes. Thanks!
The only time this happens to me is if i have snow under the brakeQuote:
Originally Posted by skialpy
Mechanism
Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk
On my brakeless mtns I still have a gap between the boot and base plate. I have aspirations of making a custom speaker but haven’t done it yet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by soul_skier
Let me look on my parts bin tonight…Quote:
Originally Posted by soul_skier
If Dee hubs doesn’t have parts I can swap you 2 pair of the plastic bases for the 110 brakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by soul_skier
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Happy to swap you if you find the plastic basesQuote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
If dee hubs doesn't come up with them in a day or two i'll shoot you a PM and we can go from thereQuote:
Originally Posted by Laps
A coworker has gotten two pairs of these (atomic) from Amer with faulty heel towers where the U spring is not held in place correctly and just wiggles back and forth. Including one spectacular pre-release smashing. Both are being warrantied. Pure speculation that these should have been dealt with during the recall a few years ago but were just sitting in an Atomic warehouse instead? No idea.
Both of my pairs have been bomber, one with almost 100 days of touring on it and still going strong. But definitely snap a boot in and try and move it around before you go skiing if you pick up a new pair.
Has anybody figured out a solution for the floppy heel risers? Mine have started doing it after lots of use. It's super annoying when skinning flat, not too big a deal if you are using the riser.
I thought I saw somewhere in this thread where someone knocked the rivet out and replaced with a little bolt and nut that could be snugged down to eliminate the flop. Hopefully they’ll chime in.Quote:
Originally Posted by zion zig zag
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I've had moderate success with dumping some blue loctite on the riveted pin. That usually lasts for 10 -15 tours and then I have to reapply. A bit annoying but easier than replacing the pin.
It took over 100 days for the floppy heel riser issue to show up.
I did the pin replacement- It works for a little while but not a total fix. I ended up taking it apart and wedging little rubber washers between the lifters for better hold. Salomon refused to sell me new top plates and the dealer couldn’t get them either, so I decided to do my best and put them on low use skis so they don’t get many more miles.
Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums
Thanks, I may try the loctite before I replace the pin and rivet.
Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums