To take the 'math' out of the equation ;):Quote:
Originally Posted by N1CK.
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The square and tick mark method works quickly too:
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To take the 'math' out of the equation ;):Quote:
Originally Posted by N1CK.
Attachment 303150
Attachment 303151
Attachment 303152
The square and tick mark method works quickly too:
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^^+1 The square and tick mark method is so easy and works on any ski I dunno why anyone would mess with another method. If you get a thick enough square you have the ability to run it along the actual ski edge which will eliminate any issues with finding center off the topsheet on skis with slightly off topsheets or rounded tops (i.e. cap skis).
For next level pro mounts, put some notches in the square in several spots near the usual widths that u mount and it keeps the pencil locked in when you draw the line.
I love you. Jesus I’m an idiot for the shitty ruler method I’ve been usingQuote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
totally. I forgot about your centering print.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpinord
also, everyone stocking up on wax or tuning tools, buy stuff from Terry.
What's going on in the first pic? It sort of looks like you took the toe off the afd plate? Never scene it done that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by SirVicSmasher
Enjoy those skis. Those things crush!!
Very observant. Those pedestals are left over from the cast conversion I just did. The only reason they are in the picture is because I needed the plastic afds as the pivots I was mounting on the Blizzard's came with grip walk afd's and I am using a alpine boot.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Pabst
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I always use square & Tick method and I use the ski edge
If I was regularly mounting skis without a jig, I'd invest in one of these little handy saddle square things. But for now my notched square works fine.
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Just be careful with clamp selection. Not all clamps are created equal and lots of clamps have jaws which flex and/or are nowhere near parallel/square to each other from the get go. My collection was laughable.Quote:
Originally Posted by N1CK.
The question of all mounting questions....
100 or 115mm on a 108mm waisted ski? We don’t want arms as a 3rd edge am I right?
Extra wide (incorrectly adjusted, shop mounted) brake arms can allow the skis to get interlocked while in the middle of a Stein type turn.Quote:
Originally Posted by skier666
Very inconvenient.
Agreed. brake arms can also hook into your other legs pants. Both instances, no fun.Quote:
Originally Posted by powdrhound
I always size down if in between sizes and bend the arms a little if needed.
Salomon? Sth2 100mm might need a slight bend and a little effort to unpair when once together, this gets better after a couple of days.Quote:
Originally Posted by skier666
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The origami method for fining the center line works very well, if done carefully. I usually do two marks for front binding, two for the back, and see if they all line up (and actually, I always do each one twice, just to make sure it's right). Make sure you mark on the ski, exactly where you put the paper, so you can get it in the same place after folding.
Next question (I started a thread for this,, but was advised to ditch it and post here):
I'm remounting some skis with a shop-mount, that used wood glue to seal the screws. I won't be reusing the old holes, so need to fill them. I usually use epoxy to fill the holes. But will the epoxy bind to the wood glue and form a solid seal? Or should I just go with plastic plugs?
BTW I don't want to enlarge the holes, as new ones will be pretty close to old (and in that case, will plastic plugs be structurally sound enough?).
I would just put some epoxy in them and then pop the plugs in. If the holes are close to the old one then the bindings are going to cover the plugs. Don't be scerd.Quote:
Originally Posted by skizix
Epoxy is fine, if you don't use some kind of filler in the holes its hard to get the air bubbles out of the hole
so you can either pound in the plastic plugs with or without epoxy OR I found BBQ skewers will fit perfectly in the holes
I don't think hard wood plugs or BBQ skewers or plastic plugs add anything structurally to a ski ... they just seal the hole
slidewright centering sticker for the win!
(i also have a imperial dim centering ruler that works well too)
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update?Quote:
Originally Posted by detrusor
So far no news.....
Multiple phone calls with no return. Need to go in person
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Thanks Colon dude. (Sorry to hear about your back issues. Heal up!)Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
I'm re-ordering more stickers for those interested this week.
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Mounted my own fukkin skis today.
Lithic Cohen 118, ready for the big days to come...
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So much yes in this postQuote:
Originally Posted by riff
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So hawt.Quote:
Originally Posted by riff
So I picked up a tyrolia Jrex plate to mount Attack2s and the holes are off from the heel holes. I have mounted STH, STH2 Pivots using their plates an never had an issue with them before.
Also is a flat heads width "normal" spacing on the heels of these?Attachment 303594Attachment 303595
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