ON3P SKIS Discussion

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Originally Posted by Doremite

Was assuming, perhaps incorrectly, that he was skiing gloppy snow that could make a ski feel hooky regardless of tune.

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Okay thanks.

Had mine out today for the first time on hard pack and they were really working me...tips grabbing when I drove them and tail wanting to run straight if I was center weight or back. Definitely feel like they need a detune. My legs were burning after first lap. Went to the car and grabbed Brahma and things were back to normal. 14th day this year but my first day in real mountains (Snowbasin) so it was probably a bad dea to grab them but gummy stone time. I''ll give them another whirl in a couple days after a detune.

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Originally Posted by uglymoney

Okay thanks.

Had mine out today for the first time on hard pack and they were really working me...tips grabbing when I drove them and tail wanting to run straight if I was center weight or back. Definitely feel like they need a detune. My legs were burning after first lap. Went to the car and grabbed Brahma and things were back to normal. 14th day this year but my first day in real mountains (Snowbasin) so it was probably a bad dea to grab them but gummy stone time. I''ll give them another whirl in a couple days after a detune.

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Sorry to hear. Hope the detune helps. I’ve only had mine out 2 days and conditions were fairly firm. Out of the gate tune worked perfectly for me. I am 1cm back of the recommended line but a telemark mount. Rocked a bunch of alpine turns too though to play around with the feel/radius of the ski. Quick tight as well as long arcing turns w ease. Smooth and instantly responsive w speed scrubbing bite-less.

I find that, even with the factory detune, it can take a few days on snow for the edges to detune to certain people's preferences. Wet snow will add to any hookiness. I always recommend carrying a gummi for the first couple times on any new ski, as the best we can aim for is a general detune. Hard for us to account for snow & style. If edges are fighting you, in most cases, 5-10 minutes with a gummi will solve the issue.

If you need any more help re: edges, just give us a call.

^^The hardest problem with my ON3P skis is finding a shop that can give as good a tune (and detune) as the one from the factory.

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Originally Posted by iggyskier

I find that, even with the factory detune, it can take a few days on snow for the edges to detune to certain people's preferences. Wet snow will add to any hookiness. I always recommend carrying a gummi for the first couple times on any new ski, as the best we can aim for is a general detune. Hard for us to account for snow & style. If edges are fighting you, in most cases, 5-10 minutes with a gummi will solve the issue.

If you need any more help re: edges, just give us a call.

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For sure. My BG were great out of the box. These will need some gummy work. It's always hard to ski after driving 17 hours in a car then getting the family to the hill so some of it is probably just me.


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My wrens 108s were so damn fun this weekend. Sun softened up things by 10, but any shaded areas maintained a nice crusty sheet of ice. I felt like a cross between tomba and candide out there on the local mogul. Gotta be the shoes.
I really like the factory tune of ON3Pz and sometimes consider I'd prefer no dulling of rockered/contact area out of factory...maybe just make it something peeps do on their own. maybe not though, I'm not one to spend time tuning skis, other than the occasional hot wax, and i suppose this could backfire. Just don't want you guys going overboard with factory dulling.

also own brahmas and nothing seams dramatically different in edging with my 108s. I could see how something comes out a hair too sharp causing a difference just haven't noticed that on my sets yet.

We started doing the detune to the contact points as some customers were having issues with them being too sharp.

By no means do we go overboard on any skis besides our Magnus (park ski) and I actually still prefer to gummy them even more on my personal skis beyond our factory tune until the contact point, then “fade” it into our factory tune there, leaving them nice and sharp underfoot.

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Originally Posted by klauss

My wrens 108s were so damn fun this weekend. Sun softened up things by 10, but any shaded areas maintained a nice crusty sheet of ice. I felt like a cross between tomba and candide...

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Stoked you are stoked!

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Originally Posted by PowTron

We started doing the detune to the contact points as some customers were having issues with them being too sharp.

By no means do we go overboard on any skis besides our Magnus (park ski) and I actually still prefer to gummy them even more on my personal skis beyond our factory tune until the contact point, then “fade” it into our factory tune there, leaving them nice and sharp underfoot.

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The factory tune/detune on my wren 108s is perfect, and I'm a picky bitch when it comes to tunes.

Loving the Wren 108's, such a fun ski.

Impressive how they can carry speed into variable conditions, just wish the guy riding them was that good.

so had my first day out on my new current year wren108s in 184. I managed to score them locally and second hand at a really nice price for near mint condition skis (a supergoat-owner who didn't ride anything but the SG :) ). PowTron recommended that i perhaps would be a better fit with the 179s, but with the 184 pair up for grabs getting them was a no brainer. So i thought i would chime in with a few first impressions:

short form - hail baby jeebus! Awesomeness!

slightly longer:
Disclaimer - today was amazing condition wise, so a lot of skis would have skied pretty well. That being said -

1) the wrens are awesome. The intial impression is that i think these will be my new daily driver. They are really supportive on the way down, planes well, handles the piste well. I dunno - being daily driver material kinda indicates that i think they will be awesome at a lot of things.

2) these things are heavy - especially having skied my Extrem Opinion Carbon 186s at 1600gr a lot this year in my quest to try carbon skis (about to be sold) - though by noon i was getting (re)used to the weight of more substantial skis. That also translated to a beautifully damp performance, annihilating bumps and being largely unaffected going across tracks. Impressive performance, though a lighter weight could be something i would want for the final/a second pair.

3) i have set the wrens up with tectons and use the wren/tecton combo with hawx xtd 130s boots with intuition tour liners. The bindings performed flawlessly, whilst the hawx really had to step up their game to keep up. I needed to tighten the boots way more with these than the other skis i have used earlier this year (aforementioned 108s, same ski in 98, lib tech wreckcreate 115, bmt122) due to the need to drive em, but after getting tighter and tighter over the morning i found the sweet spot and the package performed pretty well.

4) later in the day i switched back to my trusted lib tech pows in 181cm (115mm underfoot - about same lenght as 179cm on3ps) with pivot 14 bindings and fischer rc4 130 boots. For some reason they felt a lot lighter in spite of being significantly heavier, but i found that i preferred the longer lenght of the wrens in todays conditions be honest. It will be really fun to try the wrens in less than superb conditions in the time to come, but so far so good!

( 5) i should have waxed the wrens before i used em, but was too lazy, oh well )

i also have some 2016/2017 BGs in 184 in a stiffer lay up on the way in that i also scored in nice conditions and second hand as well. They are meant as a (for me) proof of concept/getting-to-know-the-skis-project before potentially going down a custom route getting some new custom wren98s, wren108s and BGs. I guess the dialogue with the on3p purveyors will need to be re-established - at least i sent them a rather lengthy email a few days ago :) Exciting times!

I just mounted my own fucking Billy Goats last night!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4753/...52abd11e_c.jpg

Quick questions:

- What is the factory/recommended tune on these? From the last couple pages, it sounds like they aren't supposed to require a detune? I will probably carry a gummi in my pocket just in case.
- Should I wax these before skiing? Apologies if that's a dumb question, I don't buy brand new skis very often.

Stoked.

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Originally Posted by counterfeitfake

Quick questions:

- What is the factory/recommended tune on these? From the last couple pages, it sounds like they aren't supposed to require a detune? I will probably carry a gummi in my pocket just in case.
- Should I wax these before skiing? Apologies if that's a dumb question, I don't buy brand new skis very often.

Stoked.

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Factory tune is 1/1. I haven't needed to do any additional detuning on any new ON3P I've bought but bringing a gummy on the first day is never a bad idea.
I find ON3Ps to be well waxed from the factory but it is just a universal wax, so if you have a preference for some temp specific wax or something go for it. The factory wax is fine though.

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Originally Posted by counterfeitfake

Quick questions:

- What is the factory/recommended tune on these? From the last couple pages, it sounds like they aren't supposed to require a detune? I will probably carry a gummi in my pocket just in case.
Factory tune is 1/1. We detune at the factory - but I always recommended carrying a gummi first couple days. As preference varies person to person, we cannot over do it. Personally, I find it takes about 3 days for the snow + factory detune to get skis where I like them. Some guys like them out of the wrap, other factory guys here go super aggressive and knock their edges down a ton. Our detune is a general detune so you might find you like more or less.

- Should I wax these before skiing? Apologies if that's a dumb question, I don't buy brand new skis very often.
Skis come hotboxed. No need to wax them out of the wrapper.

Stoked.

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Hope that helps and you enjoy em!

I gave mine a moderate detune from the bindings forward and am happier with them on hard or inconsistent snow now.

Anyone skied the BG 184 mounted at -1 or 2?

Had two days on them so far mounted on the line, and the tips can't descide if they want to be on the surface (lotus 120 style) or submarine down through the pow (hoji style) and as a result I'm getting a lot of drag and jerkiness when they are popping in and out of the (relatively heavy) pow.

Very forward, traditional 185lbs skier that likes katana/lotus 120 style pow skis with set back mounts. Trying to modernize my ski style by keeping more upright but I just feel they are wanting me to be skiing in the back seat.

That's the bad points so far, good points-super damp and stable when not in pow, great in choppy slush and/or shallow crud. Interesting ski.

Bought em too short.

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Originally Posted by Norseman

Bought em too short.

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Yup

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Originally Posted by rob stokes

Anyone skied the BG 184 mounted at -1 or 2?

Had two days on them so far mounted on the line, and the tips can't descide if they want to be on the surface (lotus 120 style) or submarine down through the pow (hoji style) and as a result I'm getting a lot of drag and jerkiness when they are popping in and out of the (relatively heavy) pow.

Very forward, traditional 185lbs skier that likes katana/lotus 120 style pow skis with set back mounts. Trying to modernize my ski style by keeping more upright but I just feel they are wanting me to be skiing in the back seat.

That's the bad points so far, good points-super damp and stable when not in pow, great in choppy slush and/or shallow crud. Interesting ski.

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I think I can help here.

The BG is fast and stable through chop and mank, but it doesn’t necessarily like to be driven with a very forward, shins pounded into boots type stance in powder or groomers.

As you noticed it rewards that style in chop and variable snow.

The RES design works the best when you change the pressure and stance on groomers/powder to a more neutral position and put your weight somewhere in between the ball of your foot and your arch. Once you get into 3D snow that is variable you can drive them as hard as you want.

We give this pep talk at all of our demos to help people figure the ski out faster as it really isn’t like anything else on the market.

Once you learn that point between the forward in chop/mank/variable vs the more neutral on groomers/blower conditions you literally just start adjusting without thinking about it.

Think of it as the ski makes every condition you described easier to ski with less effort, but just have to drive it two different ways depending on the environment.

For record I am 5’10” and 195lbs and ski the 184 BG and love them. But I do ski them very differently than I do Wrenegade 108’s where I drive the tips of those as hard as possible.

As always we would never recommend mounting that ski anywhere but the line if you can absolutely avoid the temptation [emoji846]

Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other questions.

I'm 145lbs on the old 186 and can basically drive the tips as hard as I want, everywhere, but do tend to naturally stand a bit more upright on the BGs than on my Wrens. However mine are pre-asym.

I'm 3rding too short especially if you were on 190 Katanas/L120s.

Yes, just stand on em and go.

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Originally Posted by rob stokes

Anyone skied the BG 184 mounted at -1 or 2?

Had two days on them so far mounted on the line, and the tips can't descide if they want to be on the surface (lotus 120 style) or submarine down through the pow (hoji style) and as a result I'm getting a lot of drag and jerkiness when they are popping in and out of the (relatively heavy) pow.

Very forward, traditional 185lbs skier that likes katana/lotus 120 style pow skis with set back mounts. Trying to modernize my ski style by keeping more upright but I just feel they are wanting me to be skiing in the back seat.

That's the bad points so far, good points-super damp and stable when not in pow, great in choppy slush and/or shallow crud. Interesting ski.

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I'm a forward pusher too. What I found works best is if I flex my ankles but don't flex my knees as much. So skiing with shin contact but standing up a little taller. I'd also say, I'm pretty close to your size, I'm on the 191 and have yet to want to either shorter or longer. I can push as hard as I want in pow. On groomers/hard snow a more neutral stance is rewarded.

I am pretty much Powtron on these. Drive them in shit, a little more neutral in pow. Prefer the 86/84

Thanks for the input, need to try skiing more centred but instinctively I ski from my shins, not the ball of my foot. Didn't get on with hoji's (except in shallow wet pow, in which they are unreal) because of my style, but already I feel the BG aren't as centre-centric as the hoji's.

My 120's were 190cm (mounted +1cm) and they are unreal in pow, but want something more versitile-which the BG no doubt are.

184 v-werx katana as pow touring ski.

Hoping the 184 BG aren't, as some suggested, too short. They only measure a couple cm less than my 190 120's.

Will keep skiing until I have at least ten days until I change anything, sounds like they have a bit of a learning curve.

Cheers

Mmm... yeah, I bet it's a "centered stance" thing as the wise have suggested. Perhaps I was too quick to make assumptions on the length.

Give em a few more days.

What boots do you use? What's the forward lean? I've found the upright stance of my Langes with wraps to agree very well with the neutral cockpit of the BGs.

When I skied XXL's all the time, I often wavered on the brink of buying boots with a more aggressive angle to facilitate the ski's preference for shin-fuck driving. Played around with spoilers, etc.

No need now as I feel the boot and ski are harmonious with most of my skiing.