fill holes with a quality epoxy (not 5 minute) and you're much better off than those plastic plugs that don't do shit.
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fill holes with a quality epoxy (not 5 minute) and you're much better off than those plastic plugs that don't do shit.
Ok next time... Plastic plugs came with the wintersteiger drill bitsQuote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
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I find it tough to get epoxy in the holes to completely fill them... it's tough to know whether you have an air bubble in there or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
The plastic plugs (installed with epoxy) at least keep water out. I use them as long as the holes are sufficiently far from the new holes I want to drill I count on the ski being strong enough.
For closer hole spacing hardwood dowels.
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What’s the problem w/ plastic plugs? Lack of structural resistance?
I’ve always put in plastic plugs w/ titebond III
1ml Plastic Disposable Graduated Transfer Pipettes Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CHK1PLX..._DRA0Db1TM4ZD8Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
I mix a little sawdust in with the epoxy. Having some solid chucks in there makes it a lot easier to poke it down in the holes, and I think that in theory it might be a little stronger if I have to drill overlapping holes with some fibrous stuff in there too. No real data on that second point though.
What’s a proper epoxy? Maybe two suggestions: short and long cure? Unless no real benefit to long..
In my experience quick set epoxy tends to be more brittle. Long set tends to have better elasticity.Quote:
Originally Posted by CascadeLuke
K thx. Most all brands equal? Anybody have a strong feeling for a certain one?Quote:
Originally Posted by pyromaniacman129
West System G-FlexQuote:
Originally Posted by CascadeLuke
Yup, though I get a box of 100 10cc syringes and plastic luer-lock tips. [I actually also have 3cc ones too - which I use depends on what I'm trying to do. But the 10cc ones get a lot more use.]Quote:
Originally Posted by lucknau
I would have a hard time pulling epoxy into the pipette. Especially when I use wood flour if I want to increase viscosity/fill.
https://www.amazon.com/a13042200ux03...s%2C191&sr=8-4
I use syringes for quite a few other things too, so while a box of 100 will last me decades, they're always super handy to have around.
I've used West System slow cure or T-88 from System 3. [I mostly use T-88, since it's what I'm most familiar with, and what's handy and open in the garage.] I don't recall what sizes mine were to start, though I'd guess 16oz of each hardener/resin. 4oz will last you forever, unless you do a lot of big glue-ups. For ski work, I usually mix 1-2 grams each of hardener/resin.
Copy that. 2nd to suggest this one. Thanks!Ordering with ^ above transfers.Quote:
Originally Posted by gregL
gregL- how would you most confidently fill a close hole?
I would ram some fine steel wool in the hole and use a syringe to fill with epoxy.Quote:
Originally Posted by CascadeLuke
Oh, actually I use 3cc pipettes, not 1cc. Was too lazy to go look.Quote:
Originally Posted by gregorys
I use syringes with metal pinhead dispensers for delams, just because they’re skinnier. Maybe a little stronger, but they pull out if they get pinched.
Same here. I have practically a lifetime supply from some previous hobbies.
I bought syringes years ago (and never used them) with exactly that I mind but I found the g-flex too thick to flow through it.Quote:
Originally Posted by lucknau
Maybe I just need to warm it up first?
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I work at room temperature. It takes a minute or so to draw the G-Flex into the pipette, but I’ve never had it be too thick. I guess some pipettes could be flimsier than others?Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
The plastic tips make all the difference. Small gauge needles won't cut it with epoxy. [I've tried! :) ]
The plastic tips can be trimmed too, to have a larger opening.
Oh, and even then, I don't *pull* the epoxy into the syringe - it's possible that would work if it were warm, but mine never is. I mix on a small piece of paper or cardboard, then use the mixing toothpick to swirl a bunch onto the toothpick. I then roll off in the open end/barrel of the 10cc syringe - repeat until all the material is transferred. Even if I do 3-4cc of material, I can still load the syringe this way. Then slide the plunger in and purge the air.
How are people extracting plastic plugs? Mine set by melamine base glue. Have tried a screw with mixed results.. maybe I’m doing it wrong
drywall screw
Drill it out with your stepped ski mounting bit. Most of them will just spin out.Quote:
Originally Posted by CascadeLuke
Thanks gents
ETA: tried screw again first. I just wasn’t penetrating enough prior. Had good luck with 7-8 driver twists and some screw manipulation in each direction while at depth.
I use these 14 gauge steel needles.Quote:
Originally Posted by gregorys
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N562BFP..._vvF0DbHV8T8PG
jesus christ put your tiny dicks in there
and if it really matters use Hardman machinable epoxy and buy it from SlideWrite
For binding mounts, it doesn’t. Unless a ski has carbon i use waterproof wood glue. If carbon, 5 minute work time epoxy.
If on a delam, locktite marine epoxy since it remains pliable as to flex with the ski. G flex is good if you have it around, if not then the marine works fine.
I also fill the old holes with epoxy and golf tees if having to mount close to existing, if not then the plastic pound ins with some epoxy works just fine. I use a tooth pick to burp the holes if need be. Never had an issue in all my mounts over what, 20 plus years if mounting my own shit.