Originally Posted by
Ottime
Great to hear you are keeping at it. So many adults fail at surfing because they don't have the will gneiss to spend so much time doing something they kind of suck at. Keep at it and you will soon be killing it.
Finally got some decent surf. Nice late season small nw started to show today. Looks like we could be seeing some 8@12 by morning with slack wind and tide dropping slightly negative at 7AM. Could be fun in a few select spots. If those winds hold off, things could be super fun through late morning.
I hurt my back (again) about a month ago. Not bad, but it ended up pinching a nerve. Been slowly working that out. It was nice to surf for a few hours on the short board, get a few solid hard top turns, and have my nerve feel no worse for the wear. Still need a loa of IB, beer and occasional muscle relaxant, but it is nice to be feeling healthy ish.