Ski RV's, who's sleeping in parking lots?

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Originally Posted by Leavenworth Skier

I was thinking of the GMT800 platform. You are right, the GMT400 2wd basically has nothing in common with the 4wd suspension and frame. I'm not sure it would be worth the hassle and expense.

Maybe just throw an Eaton selectable e-locker in the back for low traction ski area parking lots and make sure you have a tow hook if you need a tug.

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Speaking of tow hooks, that's how you know its not a K. No tow hooks in the front peeking through the air dam. I had forgot about that.

I'm liking the locker idea also.

Tough thing about the whole deal is that it could be worth the hassle and expense... I mean, can you see this lifted a bit on 31" (OK, 33", ugh, I hate big lifts, but 33" is better here prolly) with 4.10s 4x4 solid 3/4 ton axles, (I'll bet that's a 350, could be a 454 but I doubt it, I'd prefer 350 for gas anyway); BEAST, with no other real work besides the conversion. I wouldn't do it, but 4k's not a lot to people with more money than, say, me when the alternative is a 60k van. Bonus! you can change the spark plugs without pulling out the fucking interior of the car.

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Originally Posted by NoPostholio

Dunno, but the guy listed his # so it seemed legit - ACH would prob be able to tell by looking, but for that price and chevy platform it would be worth it to convert - I would be looking at it right now if in that locale.

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I called it is not 4 x 4 and it has 71,000 miles on it.

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Originally Posted by danadog

I called it is not 4 x 4 and it has 71,000 miles on it.

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Thanks. Not bad mileage.

Pulled the trigger on an arctic fox/f350 combo that I stumbled upon - will be happier full timing in this thing than the project on wheels bigfoot
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f8052bd168.jpg

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Originally Posted by Skidog

Thanks. Not bad mileage.

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I called and it's 171,000 miles. He left off 100k miles. He said "oh yea, I keep forgetting that."

Curious about the reliability of the slide out in winter. We have stayed away from the Lance 1685 trailer for that reason and continue to dry camp in our Escape 17B. Look forward to your experience.

So... this happened:
Attachment 207787
1962 10' NCO Alaskan Camper. Mint. Going to have my dad (who's a master woodworker) help me insulate and redesign the interior to increase storage space and usability. Should be awesome. Going on flatbed with custom boxes for gear and ski storage. Maybe an outdoor kitchen and shower too.

Consequently, my 1986 Bigfoot Camper (that I put a bunch of work/time/money into and is about as clean as you can get) needs to be sold. Thread here.

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Originally Posted by yardsale2

Curious about the reliability of the slide out in winter. We have stayed away from the Lance 1685 trailer for that reason and continue to dry camp in our Escape 17B. Look forward to your experience.

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They all leak. Some leak worse than others. Ours had rubber flaps that helped seal it shut but it still let a fair amount of cold air in. Leaving it open in 25-30 degrees was no big deal but 10 or colder was a pain. As far as reliability though we never had any issues with it freezing up or anything. Ours was an eagle cap.

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Originally Posted by nobueno

I called and it's 171,000 miles. He left off 100k miles. He said "oh yea, I keep forgetting that."

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Yeah, lol, that makes more sense. I was thinking good price for the miles, but at 171K, makes more sense. Easy truck to work on though. Looks ads been taken down so I guess he sold it. Good for him, cool truck.

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Originally Posted by nobueno

They all leak. Some leak worse than others. Ours had rubber flaps that helped seal it shut but it still let a fair amount of cold air in. Leaving it open in 25-30 degrees was no big deal but 10 or colder was a pain. As far as reliability though we never had any issues with it freezing up or anything. Ours was an eagle cap.

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What happens if it's warm and the snow melts and then freezes? Do you have to deice the slide out?

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Originally Posted by Leavenworth Skier

What happens if it's warm and the snow melts and then freezes? Do you have to deice the slide out?

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I could see that happening but it never did to us and we spent over a month total in snow and ice down to -15. Ours had an awning which I would consider a must to help prevent leaks and it also saves you from having to clear snow off the slide before pulling it in. Ours ran on two tracks, top and bottom on each side.

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Originally Posted by Leavenworth Skier

What happens if it's warm and the snow melts and then freezes? Do you have to deice the slide out?

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I would imagine you'd be losing enough heat out of the slide to keep it from re-freezing. Just keep the furnace running.

How are these things? I'd rather not have a money pit...

https://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/6174138576.html

with 65k on it, that doesn't seem like a bad deal.

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Originally Posted by Jong Lafitte

How are these things? I'd rather not have a money pit...

[URL]https://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/6174138576.html[URL]

with 65k on it, that doesn't seem like a bad deal.

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I'm sure they're fine in terms of reliability because the 22r series is practically bomb proof.

Problem is that thing will be terribly slow. I had the 22re in my 89 single cab 4x4 and it struggled to get up to highway speeds with a load in the bed. And this was in Hawaii where the speed limit is 55 on most highways. I couldn't imagine that RV is comfortable to cruise in.

^^^ Yeah, I was just thinking about how rough driving it up to the tunnel would be. Cuz, other than being grossly underpowered, that's a pretty slick little package for that kind of dough.

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Originally Posted by yardsale2

Curious about the reliability of the slide out in winter. We have stayed away from the Lance 1685 trailer for that reason and continue to dry camp in our Escape 17B. Look forward to your experience.

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We use our slideouts in the winter on our RV. We too have the rubber flaps/seals however air still makes it way through. After I extend the slides, I wedge pipe insulation between the floor and slide out. If it is extremely cold/blowing I do this process from both sides (interior and exterior). No issues with the slide out, just make sure you clean all the snow/ice off the top of the slide out before bringing them in.

Attachment 208054

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Originally Posted by Jong Lafitte

How are these things? I'd rather not have a money pit...

https://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/6174138576.html

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Those have a history of broken rear axles.

Used RV a money pit? Nah, that never happens. :fmicon:

My '86 22RE powered rig gets me where I want to go. You just have to relax a bit more and plan a little longer drive time. It will eventually make it to 65, on flattish roads.
A manual tranny may help. The lack of efi may not.
You learn to accept downshifting. The steepest pitches I am in 1st, solidly 25-28 mph. But I get there. With my house.

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Originally Posted by Jong Lafitte

How are these things? I'd rather not have a money pit...

https://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/6174138576.html

with 65k on it, that doesn't seem like a bad deal.

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Having owned multiple VW camper vans we have always thought this would be a logical move for us. The real problem with the Dolphin/Toyota campers? They're very hard to find.

^^^ They also have a history of cracked frames.

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Originally Posted by Flyoverland Captive

^^^ They also have a history of cracked frames.

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I'm sure that has nothing to do with running 1,000 lbs over weight before you add gear....

Damn! well, thanks to everybody who weighed in! I think for several reasons, we're not gonna get it. Kinda sucks cuz I was willing to go slow up the pass and, crazily enough, even the wife was in on the plan. I'm also not sure a class c of any size is right for my situation (the situation of not wanting to spend much on an RV) but that looked affordable, small with OK mpg and pretty nice. Mpg is a big factor for me but I can't throw down for a sprinter promaster diesel thingie. At the same time I don't think its unreasonable to want at least 10-12 mpg for just the wife, me and the dog.

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Originally Posted by Kailua_Boys

I'm sure they're fine in terms of reliability because the 22r series is practically bomb proof.

Problem is that thing will be terribly slow. I had the 22re in my 89 single cab 4x4 and it struggled to get up to highway speeds with a load in the bed. And this was in Hawaii where the speed limit is 55 on most highways. I couldn't imagine that RV is comfortable to cruise in.

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Kinda what I was thinking about the 22r motor... Powdrhound pointed out later 25 mph up a steep grade, yikes!! On 1-70, there are lots of 18 wheelers to settle in behind and go that fast but, yikes!! Still, still, not a deal breaker. The wife and I both have subies that can get us to the ski areas for short trips, bad road conditions so on...

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Originally Posted by DIYSteve

Those have a history of broken rear axles.

Used RV a money pit? Nah, that never happens. :fmicon:

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Ha! Yeah, I guess there's a lot of stuff to go wrong. Ideally for my budget, I'd like a cargo van with a super simple conversion. Like, bed in the back with the kitchen/storage/furnace behind the driver. I'd severely limit the amount of shit that could fail and could work on it/replace parts myself, having been the installer. I figured if I went with a 1/2 ton and kept weight to a minimum, I could eek out maybe 15 - 18 mpg. Problem is, I don't have the space (and maybe time) to build it out and paying the labor probably puts me over budget and, the time, I mean, I could use that this weekend!! So, one of these deals looks more attractive in many ways, not to mention comfortable.

I checked into that axle problem and seems you're spot on there. It looks like 87 or 88, they started to use the true dual wheel axle and it solved the issue. Some older ones have been swapped, you can tell by the hub. I've seen some with V6s from the 90s, maybe that could work, little pricier but still finding some under 10k.

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Originally Posted by powdrhound

My '86 22RE powered rig gets me where I want to go. You just have to relax a bit more and plan a little longer drive time. It will eventually make it to 65, on flattish roads.
A manual tranny may help. The lack of efi may not.
You learn to accept downshifting. The steepest pitches I am in 1st, solidly 25-28 mph. But I get there. With my house.

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Sounds like its working out! I could live like this. Damn, why am I not buying it again?

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Originally Posted by skiing-in-jackson

Having owned multiple VW camper vans we have always thought this would be a logical move for us. The real problem with the Dolphin/Toyota campers? They're very hard to find.

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Yeah, not a lot of used inventory, that's for sure. There's a 91 on CL with "cosmetic issues" and a blinking break light. Hmmmm.... did that have the V6? gonna go check.

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Originally Posted by Flyoverland Captive

^^^ They also have a history of cracked frames.

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This is a tough one. I wonder if its the same issue for later years. Kinda surprising given how good the Toyo 1 ton frame is but it looks like the manufacturer modded it.

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Originally Posted by powdrhound

I'm sure that has nothing to do with running 1,000 lbs over weight before you add gear....

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Originally Posted by Cruiser

^^^ Yeah, I was just thinking about how rough driving it up to the tunnel would be. Cuz, other than being grossly underpowered, that's a pretty slick little package for that kind of dough.

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Yeah. I do like the layout and everything. Meh, if it can go 25 up to the tunnel, that sounds just about as fast as anybody else for most days.

You want a 1/2 ton pickup with a lightweight popup camper.

^^^Thanks Jong Lafitte, Great info!

Easy to tell the newer or retrofitted full-floating Toyota rear axle, just look for the hub with little nuts on it protruding through the center hole in the dually wheels. If it's flat or just a hub cap over an axle flange that's flush with the wheel, you don't want it.