Printable View
New rubber for the gravel rig! 700x50, they were wicked easy to setup with just a floor pump, also grabbed the Trackr radar from Wahoo
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...88e2288eb6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b869c64bd9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8fff61ab3d.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Does the TRACKR do anything different from the Garmin Varia?
I have the Garmin on my road/gravel bike with a Wahoo Bolt up front and everything seems to work fine. But it breaks my personal rule about only buying devices that charge with USB-C; made an exception as a "safety device" but I hate having to find a micro-USB cable for it. Might be enough to justify a switch...
Not exactly sure, does the Garmin have, ‘brake lights’? The tracker gets brighter when you are braking or decreasing speed quickly
After reading DC Rainmaker’s review of the Wahoo, if you have any custom mounts for your Garmin, don’t make the switch. The Wahoo mount is 1mm bigger than the Garmin and won’t fit in Garmin mountsQuote:
Originally Posted by singlesline
Cue the rant about bicycle equipment companies and their stupid different “standards”.
I got a Garmin Varia (515, not the camera version) at the start of the season. This is a GAME CHANGER for road riding. Best $150 Ive ever spent on cycling gear. I wish I bough one of these years ago. The confidence on the road with knowing and understanding when cars are approaching from behind is unbelievable. I have it paired to a Garmin 840 head unit, with the tone alerts turned off, but Vehicle position LED, and threat alert colors (how fast they are approaching) turned on. I also utilize the pattern light mode, the rear light is solid red, and as a car is detected it begins to flash. This allows my wife (if riding behind me) to know a car is coming by seeing my tail light start to blink. My other buddy with a Garmin 820 has my Varia paired with his computer, so when we are ridding together he sees the alerts the same as me, he just needs to adjust the distance it shows the cars, based on if he's in front or behind in the group. If you ride on the road, and use a head unit (Garmin, Wahoo, Hammerhead, Bryton) go spend $150 (on sale at all retailers) on this device.
""Care to elaborate? If my Ebike shit the bed without warranty support, I would be hard pressed to replace with same brand. ""
Santa Cruz dealer is literaly 3 short blocks away so I call shop bro you got a Med green Vala 70 awesume I will take it cha-ching
I really like the Santa Cruz product and i like th VPP design and the Santa cruz part is not the problem its the fucking Shimano North America part who can or will not sell me an EP8 motor
On th eother side of the pond an LBS in England told me he an get a new EP8 in 3 days so the engine is are available but Shimano NA choses not to support
I would not recommend anyone buy an E-bike with a Shimano motor I find it interesting that SC actualy changed their E-bike design from VPP to 4 bar cuz a Bosch engine would not fit in a VPP so SC are also done with Shimano
I have bought bikes from out of town and its not a problem with an acoustic bike to wrench a few things but IME you REALLY want local support for the Eeb which is why I bought local and i just hope the Bosch is good
New vinyl sticker kit, the orange looks hot!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a7f44a6631.jpg
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I left my truck door unlocked and some homeless type stole my trail pack SO I had had to buy a new Dakine pack, a new 29" tube, a Multi tool and a new silky Big Boy
To be sure the new Dakine is lighter with a ventilated back panel is a lot nicer than the old Dakine Apex
then I could not find the key to my locking wheel nuts so buddy at the tire store told me when they toss a car they take the wheel nut keys as well
so now i have to get the locking nuts removed cuz if I get a flat I am literaly fubared
I just put on 165mm cranks on my XC bike. Was getting shitloads of pedal strikes on our trails, one of which resulted in three months of shoulder rehab.
After maybe 20 hours of saddle time I’ve had one strike, and I deserved it. It also feels easier to get the crank through the top half of its arc. Maybe that’s just my mind playing tricks though. Haven’t found it harder to climb steep hills at low cadence.
YMMV
IMO it's easier to not spin out on loose climbs with the shorter cranks. I'm 5'9" (ave Ape Index) and run 160mm.
Just put a pre-order in for the funky Outlier Pendulum pedals after good friend, who's always pursing marginal gains, has been raving about them for a while. No new bikes on the horizon for me right now, so mixing it up with silly and overly expensive boutique parts sounds about right.
Switched from the garmin edge 540 solar to the new edge MTB computer. Pretty stoked on it, it's super small and light (without being too small to use the screen properly) and really has a lot of good route finding features with the new "forksight" function. Doesn't have solar like my last one but was pretty convinced that never actually did anything anyway haha
Pendulum pedals are amazing. Rumors are true (I have a set).
Fascinating. Feel free to elaborate on these three hundred dollar phenomena.Quote:
Originally Posted by SJG
In theory, they could change every aspect of geo, since the effective BB is lower.
Also curious about those pendulums. I run clips, so not so much interested in actually riding them. But from my armchair, it seems like they'd have a lot of fairly significant downsides.
Sent from my SM-S931U1 using Tapatalk
I run clips 90% of the time as well. Will report back after some saddle time on them.
12mm drop will have to drop post down some and have read online people needing to run shorter cranks, but with feet level/descending that would be irrelevant I think.
Those look really interesting to me as well.
I ride both clipless and flats. I've been riding the clipless more often recently and I think I need to crank them tighter or maybe a different pedal. I run XT M8120 and I have more contact/control with my flats pushing from the 10 o'clock point down. From 6 o'clock up to 10 I'd say there's a slight advantage clipped, but there is play, so I don't really know. Kinda splitting hairs I guess because I don't care how fast I am, it's more about efficiency.
what pedal are you running ? IME its pretty hard to beat the Shimano SPD pedal which are way > their fucking e-bike motors
maybe you need a few more clicks also make sure you are in the middle of the pedals float when you are normaly peddling ?
First off, they are $200 not $300. $300 Canadian. Free shipping, no duty.pins on top, rounded on bottom. If (when) they hit a rock or log, they slide over it, instead of the pins digging in and sending you OTB, or bending/shearing pins. Yes the pedals are a smidge lower than flats (they are thinner, so not 1/2" lower), BUT pedal strikes are way more of a non-event.Pedal below axle, a little more than 1/2" lower, so lower center of mass. Results in higher stack (which I like). Seat lower to match.But the main feeling people get when on them, I have had a bunch of friends borrow my bike or the pedals for a ride, within 10m they are like "HOLY SHIT". Pedal swings below axle, so pressure REALLY holds you in. Normal pedals you are on top of axle, and when you have to pull/push, or brake hard (drop heels), and you hit bumps, the foot has a tendency to bounce and slip forward on the pedal. These ones the pedal swings forward and locks you in. Hard to describe, but traction is immensely better than flats with foot above axle.I have 2 bikes with normal flats, and one with Pendulums. It's a huge improvement, not minor. I love them.https://youtu.be/ubmicIdu_no?feature=shared
I put Clik valves on a couple of my bikes and use the shraeder to Clik adapter in my little M12 inflator. Presta doesn't seem like much of a pain until you just jam the Clik head onto the valve and you're good. They're supposed to work with most presta heads on pumps and CO2s, but I haven't tested it. If I can get a Clik CO2 adapter, I'll be 100% in.
a near new Fox moto/ mtn bike jersey fer cheap on FB marketplace, and thats he second jersey ( Fox & Dakine ) I have found on FB
Just bought a Vitus 979 from the '80s from the original owner. Navy blue anodized main triangle, bare aluminum lugs, seat stays, chain stays, and fork. Indexed down tube shifting and rocking 20s -- I can't remember the last time I've seen such skinny tires. The frame looks to have room room for 32s or even 35s but I don't want to look for new wheels, so I'll settle for 25s. Just need some new bar tape and a few other cosmetic tweaks and it will be the coolest bike on any social ride.
Bumped up from a 150mm Loam v1 on my full suspension to 170. There was a good sale, I'll see if I can find the link. Anyway, my hardtail had a KS Lev externally routed 125mm that I had to keep like an inch higher than the line that says not to run it higher than that. The only thing that's the same on the old 2013 Canfield Numble 9 and the 2019(?) Guerilla Gravity Trail Pistol(a) is the seat post size, but the Canfield is old enough not to have internal routing. But it's steel. So I did a thing.
https://i.imgur.com/8MiKjYY.jpeg
I think it looks factory!
https://i.imgur.com/Hcz5uGm.jpeg
I could have made the hole a little lower, I guess, but it should work great. If anyone wants to know how I did it, I could go into it more. If anyone wants a KS Lev 30.9x125 with external routing, I could sell it for peanuts. It's old, but it works fine. I might keep it, though. I have a set of Flows too. I'd like to build up a touring/errand running 29er.