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Tested out a few different ways to find ski center the past week and I think I found a winner for now (digital calipers would make this easy but I don’t have those). Quick Grip bar clamp around the edges, then measure with a straight edge.
Attachment 297516
Attachment 297517
I had one of those stops come lose mid still and I drilled right through the ski 🤨 Went back to the BF bit then.
Ok trying a new mount and am gonna post questions as I go because it’s 100% free hand, no template. I have a pair of ravens drilled for Tectons and will be installing Xenics. Heels match. So plan is to install heels, snap binding toe onto boot, snug the boot onto the prongs, move heel forward or backward until toes don’t conflict with existing holes, and mark on the ski.
Also for sanity check: since no forward pressure on touring heels, I just want that sliver of light between the boot and the heel binding.
Somehow this all feels weirder with no template and installing with the heel already done. I suppose it is.
Any better ideas?
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I've always inserted the drill bit so only the 9.5 or desired depth was exposed. Worst case is it slips but that just results in a shallow hole and is salvageable.
Getting ready to drill a bunch o skis.
Fuck if you do that ^^ the universe will likely consume itself !Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
But in the event it doesnt, IME drill collars will slip SO instead I drill a hole thru a wine bottle cork, I slip the drill in the chuck to leave as much drill bit showing as I need, all that can happen is the drill can loosen so I don't drill deep enough
I never use jigs or those flacid paper templates, SO what is important is ski boot center in relation to the ski center mark SO find it on the boot, mark with a piece of tape or a sharpie mark, put the boot center mark at ski center, use a T-square on the ski top to line up the boot mark cuz its hard to just eyeball, click the toe piece onto the boot, line up BC / ski center to see where you are at
So at this point if you got existing binding holes you wana use and the marks are within 1 cm, I would just do it cuz you won't feel 1 cm unless you are a princess, if it IS further than 1cm you got enough room to drill another hole
figure out where the toe will go in relation to the heelpice holes you are using, take into account whatever gap the binding needs (I am unsure what those bindings you mention used ? ) mark where your toe piece will go
now drill one hole for the toe piece, mount the toe piece, click the boot in, let the binding move where it wants, mark the other holes, this will make sure the boot drops dead center into the pins and Bob's yer uncle eh
Great idea w/ the clamp, thanks. I’ve got calipers but its always tough (esp. w/ semi-cap skis) to get a solid reference point for the edges. Cant believe I never thought of throwing a clamp on them...Quote:
Originally Posted by thefortrees
Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
The one hole makes sense. I’ve never done that before. I see how that’ll make a good binder fit...But how does that ensure the boot drops center?
Excellent tip brudduh
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That was the standard procedure with the old 5 hole dynafit toes.Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
- Mark & mount the heel.
- Mark and drill one toe hole (one of the two closest to the heel piece).
- Temporarily install the toe with one screw and click the boot in place. The mounted boot perfectly orients the toe piece.
- Mark/centerpunch one of the two front toe holes.
- Remove the toe, drill the 2nd hole & remount.
- Repeat for the other undrilled front hole (serves as a double-check that you got hole #2 right).
- Mark & drill the final hole.
Theoretically, you could mark the 2 front holes at the same time, but you might as well them one at a time, 'coz no matter how accurate you are with your punch, you'll be off by 1/2mm.
Good thing about Fritschis - counterbored toe holes instead of countersunk ... the boot finagling works much better as a result. Enjoy your Xenics :D
If you're at all uncomfortable not having a template, you can use the Xenic toepiece to trace one out. Then, locate where the front of the boot is relative to the screw holes. I only mention this (front of boot) so you don't use the pin line. If trace out a template, I'd use it for locating only one hole (following xxx-er's method).
My templates are "old school", in the sense that I cut a window out for where the front of the boot toe is (instead of today's common practice of mimicking a jig & working off of boot center).
... Thom
typicaly some fucking dentist will ask for the aforementioned (flacid ) template, drill all the holes and find something is offQuote:
Originally Posted by margotron
BUT if you mount the heel piece dead center it is mutherfucking dead center,
then mounting the toe piece by ONE screw allows the toe piece to rotate VERY slightly around that screw/pivot to find its happy place BEFORE you drill the second screw which will fix the binding where ever you drilled screw #2
SO if you got the boot clamped down in the binding the toe piece has got to be in the exact right spot to put the heel piece at dead center on the pins
as Dee Hub points out it was standard on the 5 hole verts maybe using the center screw BUT even with one screw being off to the side on a 4 hole Rad toe piece the amount the binding will shift is actualy VERY VERY small
NOT enough to look noticeably cockeyed at the toepiece but at the heel of the boot enough to thro off the alignment of the boot into the pins
A side benefit is that if you are drilling as you go maybe with a pilot holes you got a chance to fix a minor layout fuckup ... before you fuck everything up
BTW this procedure also works for frame bindings so I have used the same method to mount an FR+
also works to get a tele boot heel sitting in the middle of the ski
Homebrewd the dentist using templates to mount up some community EP pros. Such a fun ski when fucking around.
Attachment 297581
anyone have a template for the Plum Yak? that way i can mount my own fucking skis
Just finished these (192cm DPS Lotus 138 R3.2) Ended up remaking the MTN Template for greater accuracy.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...20#post5784120
Mounting tech bindings stresses me out a little. I made this ghetto drill bit guide, for sanity's sake. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...673142f121.jpg
I have the binding freedom drill bit guide, but it hasn't been as cooperative for me as the above.
Can't wait to get out there and play around on these.
Luck,Quote:
Originally Posted by lucknau
Where do I find your updated template?
I've got a mtn mount in my future...
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It's here:Quote:
Originally Posted by riff
https://tinyurl.com/y6qfpd6a
For my own convenience, and not really considering that I might share these some day, I recreated Knut's design elements and used his naming convention. I will change the names and colors at some point in the near future, but the links should stay intact.
Going heavier or lighter?
,Attachment 298315Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
That's pretty hawt. Where'd you go? On the dot?
Thanks lucknau!
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7mm back.Quote:
Originally Posted by lucknau
Light enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Norseman
10 yo Granddaughter mounted up her new Moment ZephyrsAttachment 298368
Solid, solid work bigdude.
Seriously. Don't see enough of that these days.
JQuote:
Originally Posted by scrambledbacon
made my shop rat ass smile
i upgraded my drill
https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...pstk5wp7mv.jpg
and mounted this chicks skis for her