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If you think the 28T won't give you enough, and you want an alloy chainring, you could try an oval 28T. Supposedly the oval shape helps.[/QUOTE]
Steel is gonna last longer. I like the 28 oval, especially in technical terrain, but it does go through chains a bit faster than the round.
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Honestly, I haven't bled a Sram/Avid brake in a very long time (thank you Jezuz), but I'm gonna go out on a limb and suggest the Shimano gravity bleed technique is just way too messy for toxic waste that'll burn your skin off and destroy any shiny part it drips on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Toad
It’s the opposite for me. I can bleed Shimanos without losing a drop but I always make a mess with the syringes. Come to think of it, it’s actually the bleed port shut-off on the Shimanos that make it so easy.
Any tips on how to remove a wheel hub end cap/spacer that is just pressed in place? I expect there's an O ring helping hold it together.
I don't have any soft jaw pliers and I'm trying not to gouge up the cap. Having trouble removing it with fingers alone. Haven't run into one that's this stuck before.
FWIW it's a rear Race Face Trace hub on an Aeffect wheel. There is a hex end underneath the cap (hex is internal to the axle) and I need to get a wrench on it in order to tighten down the preload adjuster on the opposite side of the axle. I can't put the correct size hex key through the end cap - it's too big.
No experience with Race Face hubs, but it sounds similar to the DTs. For DT end caps they tell you to stick an axle-sized tool into the end cap and then lever it sideways. In the YouTube video comments, the DT guy said you can use your axle in a pinch. I'd probably want to wrap the threads with a layer of tape to be safe though.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Not familiar with that hub in particular, but if you don't have real soft jaws handy you can wrap a shitload of duct tape around the jaws of a pair of regular pliers and use those.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Thanks - I hadn't thought of trying to wiggle it out with something inside the end cap. I'll see if I have a wood dowel or something similar.
Good idea on padding some regular pliers. Might try that with old inner tube for padding.
If the end cap has a little ring that fits over a small flange, when you reinstall you can use a small piece of PVC or conduit to push it in.
I’ve used a bearing puller with good results.
I have soft jaw inserts on my bench vise. Somehow spaced that the vise rotates, which gave me enough clearance to use it to grab hold of the end cap, and pull on the wheel to separate them. Popped right off.
Thanks everyone!
Use your axleQuote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
Sram master cylinders are full of nooks and crannies that air bubbles hide in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Toad
They also don't have the valving that Shimano has to deal with small amounts air.
That's why it takes all kinds of pumping, shaking, tilting, tapping, banging, and whatnot to get rid of every little champagne bubble.
Anyone use windbloc gloves for cold weather riding? Was looking at some light ones at Sierra Trading, which have a windbloc layer on the back, but not on front, so should still have some breathability. Just curious if these would be worthwhile.
Chalk this up as yet another reason why I won't be switching to Sram brakes any time soon. Thanks for the reminder.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxtar
The wife’s Shimano BR-MT500 Hydraulic Disc rear brake lever developed an issue last weekend - the pin securing the lever itself seems to have come loose and in trying to punch it back in a plastic part broke off. Two questions:
1- can I just put the plastic gasket back in epoxy and she can ride?
2 - shop only had an slx lever. Will this plug and play as a replacement?
Parts are hard to come by these days so hoping it can plug and play and hoping the epoxy is an option so we can have a spare lying around. Pics can be provided if useful.
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SLX lever will be a plug and play.
Photos to go with my post above. Small little plastic gasket type thing that broke off from the pin so the lever is now loose/wiggles.
Attachment 346723Attachment 346724
Excellent. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
what rear fender situation do you all use for winter/mud? after I rode today it looked like I shit myself all the way up to the back of my neck.
also, any vaguely affordable cold weather spd shoes?
Its called skiing ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
Don't bother with the Shimano all weather shoes. They're crap. Go with some Lakes or 45 North.Quote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
haha yeah. but I gotta budget those skiing days with an infant, and I'm definitely waiting til there's a base in west porter before I spend any... the bike however I can ride basically any day though!Quote:
Originally Posted by snowaddict91
https://d33wubrfki0l68.cloudfront.ne...s-for-bike.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by mall walker
I don't know, I just picked up the Shimano gore-tex shoes, I've been struggling hard with my toes going numb on cooler weather rides, even when it's not super cold. I've got about 4 rides in with them so far in conditions that previously would've left me with painfully cold toes and I haven't had that problem once. their super comfy and are keeping my feet very warm and dry. They were not cheap, but I'm entirely satisfied with the purchase at this point.
I had the MW5's. My feet were always cold and frequently wet. The velcro ankle cuff would get clogged with snow and wouldn't work.Quote:
Originally Posted by t.odd