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all of the bouldering trails are rated r in val david. crampons next time for this hike. unless it melts out finally. can’t believe i’m hoping for it.
course, i am here for routes and they are golden.
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checking out my future project zébrée 14a
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first day on real rock, sceptre, 5.8+, stoke is high
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tho the start was easier with this mound
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pretty stoked
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building an anchor to toprope the mighty mont rigaud on the nicest day of the year so far. these cliffs are pretty special cause it sure is flat out there.
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lead all three pitches on arabesque. way better than going to work yesterday.
do you have any photos to introduce yourself with 1st?Quote:
Originally Posted by mclvlnd
Sent from my SM-G930F using TGR Forums mobile app
Decided to post a few pics of Montana climbing from my archives since most people probably aren't familiar with it. And, what the hell, I went to the trouble of scanning all these so might as well use them.
L to R: Flathead, Shoshone, and Nez Perce spires in Blodget Canyon, Bitterroot Mountains. For scale, Flathead and Nez Perce are about 1,000 feet high, Shoshone is more like 600.
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Close up of Shoshone. Classic 5.8 standard route goes up the left side of the face.
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Third pitch of the standard route on Flathead Buttress traverses out this flake and then goes straight up a 5.9 finger crack. The exposure is awesome.
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North Face of North Trapper Peak in the Bitterroots has a classic alpine route that goes straight up the series of buttresses and open books in the center of the face.
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Farther north in Kootenai Canyon there is some good overhanging sport climbing. I had a hand in bolting this route Clubfoot, which by today's standards would be considered solid 5.12a. Only 7 bolts but packs a punch.
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so sick, thanks for the stoke. what years are these from?
Mostly the '90s when I was young and strong. [emoji3]
went to brush up some freedom of the hills yesterday Attachment 236977
I've got a pair of the Butora Acro in wide width and like them a lot. I also have a pair of Kataki for hard trad I sized up a bit that climb pretty well too. Check out the 5.10 hi angle and Scarpa Furia too.Quote:
Originally Posted by AKbruin
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My buddy Matt midway through a 24-hour push to see how many individual climbs he can do.
A little bouldering sesh today at Sheep Mountain near Helena. Access road was closed so our climbing plans got thwarted but it was fun dinking around in the woods.
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ml242- Rad photos!
yeahman- Ditto. Damned impressive, too.
I ended up going to Eastside Sports in Bishop, trying on close to a dozen shoes (including the Acro wide), and ended up picking up the Otakis, which seemed like the most comfortable fit, in the same size as my Mythos. I haven't gotten them outside yet, but so far I hate the Otakis. After maybe four or five days of gym climbing, I still find it hard to weight my big toe, which is slightly curled, and I'm not used to the stiff sole. I'm hoping the fit improves with more usage and that I get used to them, but so far I'm regretting paying full price and CA sales tax on shoes I don't like.Quote:
Originally Posted by sfotex
My kid in Red Rocks--
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Some of the best batholith bouldering in the country is just outside of Butte. I know they use to throw a big party down there every year, looks like it's still going on.Quote:
Originally Posted by yeahman
http://www.montanabouldering.com/
Hell yeah, that looks like good rock and a good time. I might have to check that out this year.Quote:
Originally Posted by mud
raining in the gunks this weekend, black flies in the north. does anyone know an adirondack spot that stays relatively bug free? thinking about giving the poke-o slab a try if we miss the weather.
https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...7352/catharsis
The bugs own the dacks all summer.Quote:
Originally Posted by ml242
Maybe long sleeves and climb fast.
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left some gear up for laura to try this 5.8 hand rail, 130’.
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up above chapel pond on tillman’s arrêt.
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bozeman bullet in dead water
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approaching the anchor on warpath p1 on dead water.
nice weekend.
^^Nice pics.
Tragic news out of Yosemite yesterday. Two of the best killed on El Cap, details still sketchy. Damn I hate to see that. RIP
FKNA that's a classic right there!Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
Dude would fly out of Boulder at three something on a friday, pull out 2 laps in a day on el cap and be back at work teaching on Monday.Quote:
Originally Posted by yeahman
My day was boring. RIP.
BTW, I think his partner had over 100 NIAD's under his belt. Think about that.
Yes, I read somewhere that he was one of only five people who have climbed El Cap more than 100 times, and all of his were one-day ascents. Undercover crusher of the highest order. As was his partner. Really shitty deal.Quote:
Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark
There's some speculation going on that something might have come down and hit them (rock or a haul bag), although there are differing accounts and it doesn't seem like it was recorded. The details are pretty gruesome. We'll never know how much if any gear they had in because the rope snagged on the fall and then snapped. At best, it seems like 1 piece was likely. Speed is a really dangerous game. If they felt comfortable on the 5.7 pitch they may have been on so be it. I don't plug gear on 5.3... but I don't climb to get my name in the books (not saying they did either).
and honnold and caldwell shatter the two hour mark today.
Maybe finally breaking the mythical 2-hour mark will put an end to the Nose speed climbing insanity. Probably not. But who the fuck is going to be faster than those two guys? Nobody currently living on Earth.
that is haulin assQuote:
Originally Posted by ml242
I climbed 5 pitches in more than 2 hours yesterday. Humbled. Not that I was trying to go fast or anything.
Long but well worth reading article about the evolution of the Nose speed climbing record.
https://www.climbing.com/news/in-dep...-speed-record/
No doubt someone will try, and may set a new record--for the descent.Quote:
Originally Posted by yeahman
left work today for an “appointment“. funny that my lady and buddy also had early appointments. could not be happier about how it worked out. led 4 climbs, 6-10, and left in total darkness. would it still be this special if i could pull this off every week or would there be diminishing returns? cause i am pretty beyond stoked right now drinking a beer in the perfect night air of montreal.
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that’s the ten, it doesn’t get a star in the topo but it was sick. climb a steep face for three or four bolts to pull a roof then traverse left on this ridiculous heinous slab with a couple of crimps to an anchor.
not a climbing pic but this canadian dogwood was everywhere and really cool.
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My lady and I do the leave work early at least once a week during the summer and climb from 3-9PM, never gets any less special for us, always one of our favorite nights of the week.Quote:
Originally Posted by ml242
Some people out there might get a kick out of this, found on an old bookshelf at my folks' place:
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That’s actually pretty awesome. Before you toss it in the recycling or whatever, doa search on eBay for the first Chouinard catalog prices. I have an eBay search set up for Chouinard equipment and those catalogs go for serious coin. .Quote:
Originally Posted by viglio
Maybe you knew that.
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poko-moonshine is pretty cool and intimidating
That does look cool. I've always heard that place is fun. A know a couple guys who attended college in Plattsburgh before moving out west and they climbed there a lot. They did say it was intimidating. Those corners look steep and the roofs are amazing! Awesome pics.
yeahman, it was pretty cool, we didn't have enough time to get in a climb after already going for three swims, climbing pitchoff chimney, and hiking baxter though.
there is a boulder the size of the smaller peabody (maybe 45 feet?) at the base with an anchor at the top i'd never heard of.
The adirondacks just have so much climbing. every ten minutes you see another 3 pitch cliff a quarter mile wide. So many new routes. I think NYS should pay some real climbers to come for a fall to hang out because no one cares. We climbed at Potter and there is space for at least 300 new routes at the crags. The main face is just a sea of rock. And there was one other car there. They had just done this 1 pitch crack for a FFA. said it went at 12A. Looked boss.
Viglio, that's a really cool find. Nice to be able to read the text on the desktop. thanks.
The Chouinard catalog I remember the most is the one with the ridiculous essay on running talus--by Dough Robinson I think. I wonder how many people broke legs doing that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
I had that in my mind running down from a new route in the palisades decades ago. I was so fried, my mind couldn't keep up with my feet and I just went with it. Thankfully, I didn't case myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
While on acid in the Wind Rivers I ran down an almost veritcal stretch of talus for a few hundred feet.
I remember coming across it and not second guessing that I would be able to get down, and then quite a bit of surprise at how long it took my friends to cover the same stretch. I looked at it another time I was in the area and wouldn't even consider it a viable path while sober. That was by far the best acid I've ever had.
I could see doing it on acid, just not straight.