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Mounted another pair of skis last night. In the future I am going to kill more trees and use a fresh template for each ski. Trying to hit the cross-hairs on a previously-punched template is a little difficult. All worked out well, but a couple of my holes weren't bang on, which would be an issue for inserts. They were good enough for dynafits, so they were damn close, but not perfect. Thanks again to the developers and keepers of the templates.
mounted a pair of fucking skis for my brother-in-law.
having a jig doesn't hurt; i think that i have done at least 10 fucking projects with that thing.
I have a confession to make... I bought my wife skis and brought them to the (very reputable) shop to get mounted.
That decision was a direct result of an alcohol induced mishap while mounting my brand new fucking Praxis 9D8s last week...
I started the project a couple few beers in, and went thought a few salomon template printings until I got the scale right. Little did I know that somehow a misprinted heel template had found its way into the pile of paper that was to accompany me to the basement..
Sure enough, I laid out the templates on my carefully measured center line, checked it twice, punched my holes, and fired up the drill. I screwed in the toe without any issues, but when I put down the heel piece it quickly became apparent that the holes were spaced too far apart. I could align the front, center, or rear holes but when I did the others were all too far off to make it work.
Luckily (and much thanks to this thread and forum) I had the appropriate tools and knowledge to resolve the issue. The holes were close enough that I could selectively drill bigger ones in the proper directions to make helicoils work without having to plug stuff up and start over.
On the plus side, I was already planning on upgrading this mount to inserts sometime soon so the bigger holes aren't a big deal..
On the negative side, if my midsole position had been off (which it looks like it's not, but I had been concerned it might be) I would have had a set of oversized, helicoiled heel holes that I would have had to deal with pulling/plugging/etc..
To draw this blog to a conclusion: I fucked up my new skis. Not to the point that it's a big deal, and not to a point that I couldn't fix em... but I fucked em up. I didn't want to take that risk with the wife's new skis, so I brought em to the pros. At least if they fucked em up they'd replace em. (They didn't. All is good.)
Lessons learned:
Check print scaling on every page. If you've printed multiple versions, double check everything before use.
Visually align binding to template before drilling. Every time.
The bindingfreedom guide block is the shit, it allows precise drunken helicoil placement as needed!
Just mounted my new pair of fucking skis over lunch break. Fucking One Life's with fucking 997s. Keeps getting easier...
IDK if most people are using paper templates, but I have learned to print out the final (correctly scaled) templates on transparency film for a few reasons.Quote:
Originally Posted by JayPowHound
1. It's easier to match up the centerline and boot bsl marks.
2. It's easier to double check that hole centers line up with the binding holes (Flip the binding over and overlay the transparency sheet)
3. If you use a fine point punch to mark the topsheet, you can reuse the template. It makes a nice hole in the transparency that speeds up the centerpunch process on the next mount.
Making the final template on a transparency greatly eliminates the potential to use the wrong sheet.
^^^ solid advice.
Will any old print shop be able to do this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
You can do it at home. Buy transparency sheets. Easy
Btw. I have never used an inkjet to print on film, just a laser. If you have a laser printer just make sure to buy the film for that kind of printer.Quote:
Originally Posted by telemike
The film is not cheap ~$15 for 25 sheets, but it sure makes things less fuckupable.
Worse comes to worse I'm sure the local Staples will do it for you.
This is a great idea, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Timberridge
Yep thats how i do it, printing on the transparent sheets is the way to go
Despite supersukass snow conditions I am mounting up the Tycooooons today with Rossi FKS clamps. May skip beer and go straight to shots of shine.
Holy shit that was easy. The alcohol did not even take effect yet.
Jiggyrex FTW!
Another +1 for the transparency template. Crazy, everything is easier when transparent.
Just mounted some fritchis on Palmer all mountain skis with a buddy who's 13 year old is going to start skinning stuff with him. We only had 2 beers each, and one of the bindings came out significantly angled- It won't be noticed wile skiing, but still a little annoying- on principle.
Last time around, I drank 3 beers and a bunch of rum- mounted 3/3 perfectly straight.
Coincidence?
I want to give this a go tomorrow but am short a 4.1mm x 9mm drill bit. Does anyone in the Fernie area have one I could borrow?
If not I can just use a 5/32" bit with a depth marker on it but I would prefer a real bit if possible (local shops are not too keen to sell me one)
Been there. If you haven't seen this, it's somewhat useful in that scenario:Quote:
Originally Posted by hhtele
"If you find the binding rail is out of line a small amount to left or right (usually due to slight ms-alignment of toe unit screw holes), try simply holding binding rail over in correct direction while you tighten screws. If that doesn't do it, remove some of the front screws and look for which screw holes line up the best with binding when the binding rail is aligned with the heel unit. Insert those screws first. These methods are usually all you need to get perfect alignment."
http://www.wildsnow.com/articles/fri...-freeride.html
Solution found - time for beer and 2x4 then skis if all goes wellQuote:
Originally Posted by BigLineSeeker
I am pretty familiar with that. I think the template was off, but drilled perfectly. Was a bit surprised no combo of tightening would do it. I quit messing with it while the screws still had good bite, put the heel in position to work functionally perfect, and highly doubt anybody skiing them will notice.Quote:
Originally Posted by dschane
Cut my skins... same edge twice. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/14/e5ateqy9.jpg
Thanks, daught, kind of you to help me feel better about my own lapses of attention.
Ouch. I hate those momentary lapses of cognition.Quote:
Originally Posted by daught
Sent from my SCH-I535 using TGR Forums
DOH!!!!!!!
Skin cuts like that are why the G3 skin cutter is so nice. Just center the skins and cut both sides and you are done. None of the cut, reposition, cut again like the Black Diamond instructions have you do
Agreed G3 skin cutter is tits.
I know we are the best fucking DIYers on the planet, but maybe we should start a fuck up thread for laughts.
The black fabric pulls off the skin and there is glue underneath. Not sure why BD puts it on. With that black strip off the skin is saved.
I think they put it there to make the first pull-offs easier. Then, once the rest of the glue gets contaminated with dust/pollen/dirt etc., you've got a fresh strip of glue waiting.Quote:
Originally Posted by daught
Ditto. Why BD continues to supply a letter opener for the job is . . . . and, yes, that's coming from someone who's impatient and incompetent at cutting skins.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stowelen
http://www.google.com/patents/US20100096838Quote:
Originally Posted by dschane
Of course they could license the patent from G3, or come up with a different design (like K2).
Anybody used the jigarex w/ Rossi plate for FKS? How did it work? did you end up with decent adjustabilty?
I was told this winter that it is there for emergencies. In the event that you get into a situation in the backcountry and most of your glue has been compromised, you can pull the center strip and it should be enough to get you out.Quote:
Originally Posted by pisteoff
I was in just such a situation last summer and didn't know this. We used ski straps to keep the skins on the skis because we didn't realize what that strip was there for...
Seth
Yep, worked fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by givethepigeye
Thanks - I know that the FKS heel is a little less "adjustable" than the PX14's that I used the jig for (which worked fine).Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb
If in doubt, dry mount 'em and test.Quote:
Originally Posted by givethepigeye
^totally spaced on that - even have a 2x4 to use. Thanks for reminder.
I was booting out a lot skiing my little narrow GS skis on the groomers.
With some grinding, drilling, and changes in hardware I was able to put some Salomon risers between these Looks and an autodrive plate for a huge lifted trench digging groomer rig.
http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps38874c42.jpg
try getting a shop to do that.
I mounted my own fucking metal laminate skis for the first time (have done many other wood and pure carbon skis) and it was smooth as silk despite packing a BAC that would definitely not be let off with a warning. Used the binding screws to tap (dat ass) and it worked perfectly.
When they give a mounting recommendation as a certain distance from the tail(tip) that's measured flat against the topsheet right?
It's always going to be a straight tape pull from whatever end.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phill
Check both skis (they're not always identical) and split the difference.
Sent from my SGH-I717D using TGR Forums
Maybe send the manufacturer an email. I've always assumed a straight tape pull on most skis, but I emailed Surface before mounting some One Life's and they said flat tape. On those skis, the difference between flat and straight tape pull was about .5 cm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phill