They all look like that. Never had an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBC
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They all look like that. Never had an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenBC
Good to know. I ordered up another liner from Dalbello as I’m going back to the Lupo for 2023. I’ve had hit & miss with wraps & FullTilt variants.Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
I snapped the instep cable on my lupos today... Anyone know where I can find a replacement? [emoji51]
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I suggest you get some full tilt ones. Switched to those years ago and no snapped cables since
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Thanks for the tip. Looks like everything is out of stock just about everywhere... So the search continues. Do you know which FT boot is the most similar to the lupo for cable sizing purposes?Quote:
Originally Posted by skisurfmirth
NVM... I'll just take the broken one off and measure.
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Where are you located?Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
Central WA state. I found a 180mm pair and a 190mm pair, I ordered both in hopes that one of them will work--I was in a hurry hoping to get them before the weekend. I'm pretty sure one or the other is the correct size.Quote:
Originally Posted by iriponsnow
The other pair I will pass along here, should work for the next size up or down from me.
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I do not remember which one I got. I took the broken one into a FT dealer and matched for size. I think I ended up with a cable from the FT wide last boots, not the old raichle style FT.Quote:
Originally Posted by waveshello
For now, I spliced some 12 ga stranded insulated wire in to a loop and installed in place of the cable. Seems to be holding just fine, hopefully it holds up till the cable gets here.
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FT soul shell does not use cables -Quote:
Originally Posted by skisurfmirth
You may have found cables from a larger shell size...
Good luck. skiJ
SkiJ, These do use cables. I used the top one.
Attachment 413287
Found the middle cable in stock here:
https://suburbanskiandbike.com/Full-...190-MB1151190/
Sizing for Lupo pro HD seems to be identical to the full tilt ascendant, ie, the 180 mm cable fits my 27.5 dalbello lupo pro HD perfectly.
Sizing as follows (second column from right is the middle cable):
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...fb8edc3559.jpg
I ended up with an extra set of 190 mm cables, if anyone needs one I will mail it to you. I'm keeping the other 180 mm cable for when my other boot breaks.
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Nice work finding the #s
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Hi All.What are the honest opinions on the touring capability of this boot?
I have a very wide forefoot and a very tall forward instep and am over 200 lbs.
Currently trying out the Pro HD at home and will definitely need a punch on the side.
This will be my boot for all days, including days up to and over 2,000 M of vertical climbing in Alberta and BC.
I had tried on the Prime XTD and it felt like there was more forefoot space in the Pro HD, but now after having them on for a bit I'm not sure.
Weight and slower transitions are the biggest drawbacks over a 100% bc boot imo. They don't walk/scramble on rocks or trails as well as a boot with a full rubber, rockered sole either, but with the grip walk soles they are ok.
I did 100% of my touring in mine last season, which was around 20 days. My biggest day was ~6k feet. I have MV tour wraps in mine, with well worn superfeet green footbeds. The whole setup worked very well for me as a quiver of one boot--happy feet all season long. I do tend to prioritize downhill fun over uphill speed.
I'm still going to grab my clapped out Dynafit mercuries if I'm trying to keep up with fast people or doing a lot of transitions.
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Attachment 427828
New Lupo arrived :)
Do all my skiing in Bc/Ab Purcell/RockiesI would use my hojis for touring and sledding and Luptons for the ski hill/slack. Like stated above there are much more efficient boots for touring but the Lupo is a killer hybrid.Quote:
Originally Posted by rockymtn
Thanks I am skiing the same areas as you. I am touring 90% of the time, but at my weight and for durability I am looking at the hybrid style boots. Coming from a pair of Mindbender 130s.Quote:
Originally Posted by skisurfmirth
Trying to figure out if the Pro HD is the way to go and if I can gain some uphill efficiency
Forward ROM on the Lupos is quite good (especially for a crossover boot) with the tongue out, and rearward ROM is also decent. Fucking around with the tongues is clunky and slow to transition though, and the boots still aren't light. Really depends what you want to prioritize.
I have the hoji 130, not the shark nose, and i thought they ski really well. Are the lupos better for the down?Quote:
Originally Posted by skisurfmirth
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I have the hoji 110. I really like them. Best touring boot I’ve ever had and by far the best sled skiing boot. The Lupton (Lupo lower, krypton cuff, no walkmode) I’ve been skiing at the resort/slack is higher cut and has greater lateral power than the Hoji110Quote:
Originally Posted by rod9301
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Yeah that makes sense. I’m much lighter than you. I still ski the Lupton with a b flex tongue so it’s a 130ish flex dalbello but I use the hoji110. Maybe check out the Hoji 130? If 90% of my skiing was touring around here, especially if only from roadside, I would use the hoji over the Lupo.Quote:
Originally Posted by rockymtn
So, a gaggle of questions for those who’ve heat molded their Lupo Pro HD’s shell..
For starters, did you follow Dalbello’s official MyFit guidance for heat molding (or ‘heat customization’, as they put it) the shells, as far as baking the entire shell in an oven at 80°-100°C/176°F-230*F for 8 minutes? Or did you end up doing a diff temp/time for some reason?
What kinda movement did you get from the shell, ie would you say the process was successful, as far as ending up with a better, or even ideally fitting boot, particularly for the areas of your foot that you you were most looking to get better/more room for?
Speaking of which did you use any extra padding on your foot/ankle for hotspots/prominences? And if you initially got good movement in the shell from baking it, did it eventually revert back to its original shape, to some extent?
Any other tips or advice, such as your method in stepping in after heating, buckle tightness, shell cooldown, etc (or even a full walk-through lol) from those who’ve completed this on the current gen Lupo would be humongously appreciated! 🤘🏼🤘🏼
^ ok, I’m just going to slow ur roll. The Lupo HD is made of PU plastic - aka race shell material. It grinds better than molds. Find a race fitter & tip em well.
I found that the forward ROM was inhibited by the high lower shell in the front. Your Shin needs to push through the cabrio part of the shell and that has noticeable resistance.
I only kept mine for a few days. I was disappointed in how they toured and had too much heel lift. I came from Hawx Ultra XTD that I used a Dalbello tongue on. For the rest of the season I used old Vulcans (which I thought had poor forward ROM with the bump stops in (technically they have zero forward ROM))
I prefer not using risers and steeper skin tracks so that could be why I like more forward ROM. Hawx XTD have great forward rom.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rockymtn