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How about the battery cables? Have the terminal ends been replaced with universals? Those are notorious for causing starting issues. You need a really solid connection at the battery.
Any history of battery corrosion? Try flexing both positive and negative cables, if either have stiff spots near the battery terminals, there could be corrosion inside. Did you voltage drop test them?
Does this thing have a main relay ? Sometimes those have " hot/warm" start issued when the solenoid doesn't want to engage well when they are hot or corrosion on the contacts.
Cables have been replaced.
I haven't gotten more than 0.1v drop on any connection or wire. I don't understand why the fried connector remained hidden for so long. I may still not know what I'm doing.
Of course, doing a voltage drop test while it is in the failure mode is usually impossible. By myself, on a hot day with the dogs in back, away from home.
If I take it out for a hard drive trying to duplicate the conditions, it refuses to fail when I get home. If we are on our way home and stop for groceries, it fails!
Currently starting fine nearly every time.
Nothing exciting here but am wrestling with pulling and replacing my rear brakes on a 99 Subaru. I'm not quite sure if these are original or not but good god these things are stuck on there. One down one to go.
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Such is the joy of diagnosing an intermittent fault.Quote:
Originally Posted by powdrhound
Loose or spread terminal pins, and wire strands broken inside insulation at harness bends/folds can cause this type of concern.
Make sure the parking brake shoes aren't caught on the drums. You can dial the adjuster back through a hole on the other side of the backing plate, it's got a rubber plug in it and you turn the dial with a screwdriver.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
Seems like the only thing you can really do is probe around with the multimeter a ton, or just bypass the stock wiring harness and run your own stuff from scratch right from the battery...depending on how new and computerized this rig is....and I guess depending on whether or not your starting problem is just a problem of engaging the starter motor or if all the rest of the electrics are also involved.Quote:
Originally Posted by tripice351
There's pistons available to go either direction. Last time I went with 4.2 rods and this time I'm going with 4.0 rods from scat and icon pistons. It bored .060 over so it comes out to around 4.7L when I'm done.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati
Cleaned some parts for coating.
Attachment 212267
Holy shit, my life today. I spun a hub on one of the Merc 250's on the boat yesterday. Not sure if I hit something, or if it just gave up. I was doing 50 at the time it went, so it could have just crapped out under all that load.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater
Went down today to remove the prop and change out the Flo Torque hub. It has been a while, and I am not that familiar with these props that don't use a cotter pin. I struggled with that bitch for an hour, and finally gave up. Came home to watch youtube video, and realized there is a metal pice with flip down tabs that you have to flip the tabs up on to remove the nut. FML indeed. Should have been a 1/2 hour job max.
I did get some sun though, so that was nice. 90 f'n degrees today.
Managed to turn a tire rotation into a two evening project.
Toyota thought their land cruiser needed locking lug nuts---locking nuts that require a key that likes to strip. Had to find four Toyota lug nuts in town today to replace the locking nuts, then sacrifice a socket to get the locking nuts off. Thank God this happened in my shop and not on the side of the trail or road.
^^don't know if I posted it here but I had a similar experience last time I tried to do a rotation. Except it was because the shop torqued the lugs to god knows what. Couldn't get one of them off… soaked it for hours, torched it, and finally stripped it using a 4' breaker. Then I broke one of those special stripped head remover sockets that was $20. Went out and bought a $4 version of the same socket and got it.
Side of a trail seems like an odd place to do a tire rotation...Quote:
Originally Posted by The Reverend Floater
*drum crash*
After 185 k miles it seemed like it was time for some new rear shocks on the 330i.
Attachment 212607
Pic of said bimmer... Bimmers and new shocks = 😁
Here's a shot of the 330 waiting for a long delayed washing. Attachment 212698The new rear shocks make a big difference, should have done them 50k miles (ok maybe 75k miles) ago. Fronts are still OK. Considering it involves the underside of the car it's one of the easiest jobs I've done on this car. Exposing the top of the shock tower in the trunk (and tidying it back up after) took longer than the actual wrenching time.f
bad news: 5 month old Champion aluminum radiator already leaking.
good news: warranty was shockingly easy, "we have your info, we'll get one shipped today."
The cynic in me wonders if they've just been getting a bunch of them back from a bad run or something....or maybe they just do business that way. Either way they definitely stand behind their product...
I really like those e46 cars. Great chassis, smooth engines, pretty easy to work on, except for the starter... Ugh.
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Yeah I think BMW got an awful lot right with these cars. I'm on my second after owning a e36 first. Been about 20 years all together. Haven't had to screw with the starter yet and from what I've heard I'd rather not. My worst with it yet is the ccv. Nothing like wrenching by Braille.Quote:
Originally Posted by basinbeater
Engine ECU/ICM has cracked solder?Quote:
Originally Posted by powdrhound
replaced an O2 sensor tonight at the workplace. luckily it was in one of the more accessible areas - bank 1 sensor 1 on my blazer. first tried to remove it on flat pavement, was stuck in there good and didn't have any PB. was ready to call it quits and thought I could possibly get a bit more leverage if I pulled it up on the curb... had to double up some combo wrenches but got it. seems to run way better but might be a placebo.
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disconnecting the battery didn't clear the code though..
[QUOTE=east or bust;5109263]replaced an O2 sensor tonight at the workplace. luckily it was in one of the more accessible areas - bank 1 sensor 1 on my blazer. first tried to remove it on flat pavement, was stuck in there good and didn't have any PB. was ready to call it quits and thought I could possibly get a bit more leverage if I pulled it up on the curb... had to double up some combo wrenches but got it. seems to run way better but might be a placebo.
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disconnecting the battery didn't clear the code though..[/QUO
Why don't you go to a parts store and clear it with a obd 2 scanner ? Most places let you use one for free.
A Oxygen Sensor Socket makes it easy...Quote:
Originally Posted by east or bust
+ a gigantic breaker bar. lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by powdrhound
Hardly wrenching but I wanted to chime in and say it's a giant pain in the ass just to change the low beam headlight bulb on the passenger side of a 2008 Saab 9-5. Had to take the air filter hose off completely and could still barely get in there. The driver's side looks like 10000 times worse with more parts removal. They really made those fuckers hard to get to.
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Well, I put a crack in my exhaust somewhere while doing some probably ill-advised desert driving in my protege. Totally worth it for the climbing, though. It's got a nice throaty roar now [emoji41].