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I had to move the heel about 5mm forward to make the px racing template work with the rossignol SAS120 (I think that's the model - there's no logo that says anything except "Rossignol 120"). Make sure to test with a 2x4 beforehand as always.Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
Thanks a bunch for making these templates. Another successful mount today - that makes 4 with no major screwups!
Fejj - did moving the heel 5mm forward result in the heelpiece centered in the track (with forward pressure)? Are you confident in this number enough to have me modify the template?
jon, I was wanting to do the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
Could you do this for the dynaduke as well as dukes, please?
My bsl is a 292 mm.
I can print to 11x17 at work and having one sheet of paper rather than two means one less thing to mess up during the mounts.
^^ how's that for fast service :)
check the first post.
that WAS fast.
Great service, jon!
I just updated the FKS template with a location for the Look 3-hole toepiece. Thanks to El Chupacabra for sending me a plexiglass hole pattern to measure so this could be added.
Lots of updates tonight... I borrowed a friend's pair of fritschi freerides to create the fritschi template. It'll remain untested until we get around to mounting his skis with it, or someone else verifies it.
Thanks for all your hard work on this jondrums.
Just wanted to update that I did a test mount of the dyanfit template with my size 25 Titans on a 2x6 and found the heel location to be a little back of where it should be. I located the toe piece with your template and the location is very accurate, and the boot centre is in the right location. Once the toe piece was mounted, if I used the bottom half of the template on wildsnow.com, the location of the heel was about 8mm foward of the location your template would place it. I installed the heel in the location from your template and had to slide the heel piece about that far from it's centre location to get the correct spacing between the heel piece and my boot.
It's within the range of adjustment of the heel track, so it really shouldn't be too big an issue, but still worth noting.
I'll take a look. Since I worked from the wildsnow template in the first place, I am surprised. Mistakes do happen...
Shorty-
I did a test mount of some dynafits using a pair of boots where I verified the BSL. I found that the heel was within 1mm of centered in the heel-track when set with the correct heel-pin gap. I suspect that your boots are mismarked for BSL - I've seen it before.
Mounted a bunch of Dynafits with the wildsnow.com template. Not sure if this is the issue but be advised:
1 - When you tighten down the Dynafit toe piece, do it with the boot locked in and the heel fitting lined up on the center line. Tighten the toe screws like a auto wheel. A little bit at a time in an "X" pattern while holding the heel centered.
2- Adjust the Dynafit (Comfort, ST, FT) heel unit mid way so you can dial in the correct gap when your are done.
Just an idea. If you had multiple paper templates, you could go buy a sheet of plastic, drill all of the paper templates into it, and just use that piece of plastic whenever you needed to mount your skis with one of the templates on the plastic sheet. But this will only work if you drill the templates according to your BSL.
My BSL is 305. I aligned the toe template on the px racing template with the 305 mark and the heel template with the 300 mark. This was based on the skis the bindings came off of. I ended up bang on my mounting line and in the center of the track when forward pressure was adjusted. I am fairly confident in this number. If you modify the template, I'd advise anybody who used it to verify on a 2x4 or broken ski first.Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
Fejj, what you described corresponds to 2.5mm difference, which I don't believe is enough to warrant changing the template. Thanks for the info.
Thanks for looking into that Jondrums... I'll check my bsl vs. what's marked.
Just did a successful mount of Rossignol Power 140 bindings with the Axial template, thanks for all your work Jon.
I used a this PDF template from Slidewright to locate the left/right centerline on each ski.
As a suggestion for all the binding templates, thinning out the line font used for the cross hairs and ski edge alignment lines might increase the accuracy of alignment and punching. Take a look at the line thicknesses in the Slidewright template as an example.
Thanks again Jon.
How come some skis without metal in them, like the Armada AR6 for example, recommend a 4.1mm drill bit? Does anyone tap the holes at all..i haven't seen my shop do it in the past...
oh yeah, has anyone found 3.6mm and 4.1mm drill bits at Home Depot or Lowes..all I have found are non-metric bits.
3.6 = 9/64"
4.1 = #20
I prefer to tap the holes, but most people don't
would you tap for dynaduke holes as well?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
If you own a tap and know how to use it, then yes.
If you don't, then no - instead I would recommend pushing down hard on the posi#3 screwdriver as you install the screws. You can see this on the tutorial video linked on page 1.
I guess 9/64 is slightly smaller than 3.6mm and a 5/32 (not #20) would be slightly smaller than 4.1mm...do you find that being off by just a few fractions of a mm is not that big of a deal in your drill bit sizing?Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
9/64" = 3.572 mm. I would be surprised if someone told me drill bits were machined with a precision to account for 0.03 mm. That's tiny....
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123ski
What size tap do people use? I presume it is the same regardless of drill bit.
Dynaduke looks great at 11x17 can we get the duke one as well?Quote:
Originally Posted by hoarhey