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Let me own my fuck ups. Wasn't there something about acknowledgement earlier?Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
I misunderstood what one means by a plate where the studs are top nailed in.
I tore out the windows framing, a wall and added blocking everywhere I could as well as a few earthquake straps. Then I built the second story back wall in a more standard way, I think.
I'll hold off on more of this drivel until it's dried in.
Thanks for the tips.
https://www.sailrite.com/Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
Great website/resource.
Whoa! You were serious about canvas making. I figured the DIY part was hanging the stuff, not sewing it up from fabric. I'm outta here. (Beautiful work BTW. I used to sew stuff like parkas, packs, etc. The stuff worked but the appearance was shall we say functional.)Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
Summer has been too hot and smoky for more big projects. Got a few small things nearly done. Here's the first one. Never worked with paduk before. I don't know if I'll ever get all the red dust cleaned up either.
Should this go here or in the pizza thread? Should fit a 16"er easy
The dust will be brown eventually
Help from woodworkers please. The movers damaged a table. it’s cherry. I’m glueing this lip back on and that part is ok. There is a 4 inch chunk missing. What should I fill that with? Putty, filler, epoxy? Not looking for perfection. Also, there are some slight gaps where I glued. Any suggestions for what to fill that with? I’m ok just leaving it too. See pictures.
Missing section to fill. Smaller than it looks.
Attachment 387896
Glue seam to fill
Attachment 387897
Pieces still left to glue for example
Attachment 387898
Is the missing chunk of veneer on the table?
Can't really tell from the photos but if you are not too worried about how it looks and just want soemthing so you dont rip your underwear. Apply when you are in a zoom meeting, just go to any reputable wood place or hardware store and get some wood putty to match the colour. apply in small amount in between it drying. too large of a fill will result in cracking and you may have to keep fillng it. Lightly sand and out a finish that matches the colour as best as possible. You may have to sand way around your repair to get a bigger colour variant to match the original. Some fillers come in a stick and some in a paste that you use a small putty knife.
No, I don’t have that piece. The pieces on the table are yet to be glued back on.
On the circular trim where the large gap is it is solid cherry about 3/8 inch thick. I put that blue tape behind the gouge to help hold any filler I might use. Maybe glue a smaller piece of wood in the hole and then either wood filler or putty to finish? I could sand and refinish a small section but I’d rather just use cherry filler or putty and call it good enough.
I'm not quite sure what is going on in the first picture--looks like a full thickness gap, yes?
I would fix both the same way. Get some cherry, split out some long narrow pieces with a chisel, put a little glue on them --a little-- and mash them to fit with clamps. You'll need to arrange some kind of backing for the upper one. Trim flush after the glue dries. Don't expect a perfect color match at first --cherry darkens with age, especially if it gets direct sun. You can fine tune with a touch up stick--see Woodcraft site. Like a magic marker but uses a dye.
You don't have to clamp hard--just enough to get the wood fibers to conform to the gap. The shape of the patch you're going for is triangular in cross section so you can wedge it in the gap, tapered on the ends. May take more than one piece and several attempts to get pieces that fit reasonably well. The clamping pressure will do the rest.
Putty or wood filler is a last resort. I would try wood first.
That's an interesting way to damage a table.
That was kinda what I thought. Thanks. So putty not filler? If I have to redo it it’s ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by bad dancer
If you don't want to turn this into your life's work...
Minwax HP Wood Filler
Cherry Wood Staining Crayon
Clean; fill; dry; sand as necessary; stick stain
Repeat
Pictures' grainy on the mobile app
but if I see that as a large section missing I would just sand it smooth to the touch from factory edge to factory edge...
Ifin you're not going to be gettin peculiar bout esthetics
First picture is where a full depth piece is missing. The reason it got damaged is this is a very heavy table and that edge is fragile. I warned the movers.Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
It’s heavy because it’s got this articulating mechanism that’s really cool and great for a small space.
https://youtu.be/b8LKhBOuvCg
https://www.hanseninteriors.com/shop...iABEgJ5TPD_BwE
Thanks. I’ll take some better pictures.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gepeto
Minwax makes a cherry colored filler. Was gonna use that and go from there. I assume putty is to soft for a gap that big. Also, the filler will stick better to wood than if I glue some wood in to help fill the hole?
Hard to tell the true size of the void, but that cavity is to small to need blocking... it's called "Filler" for reason
Thanks. I have to blame myself for the damage. It’s just three screws that hold it together. I didn’t know that until after. Costly.
That’s a dime in the widest part of the gap.
.Attachment 387902
Clean it up and use some filler and get some colored pencils, you can blend it in pretty good with the right colors and drawing some grain in. I’ve fixed a few damaged tables this way, usually the edges are solid wood while the top is a veneer which makes it easier
I'm assuming we're looking at a 4" long rip the width of a dime here and that the other pieces are been glued back into place. For something that small, there's a couple options. In increasing difficulty:
1. Cram it full of matching wood putty and hope it matches. I've had great luck with Timbermate. It smells like band-aids, but it is water soluble so it has a forever shelf life and works like a champ. Scoop a bit out into a container, add a few drops of water until it's about like toothpaste consistency. Spackle the crap out of the hole and wait for it to dry. Sand flush. Hit it with mineral oil after it sets and you're there. https://www.amazon.com/Timbermate-Am.../dp/B001NV7BZW If you don't like how it looks, carve it back out and go to #2
2. Turn some cherry into sawdust. Make a mixture of sawdust and superglue (starbond, krazy glue, gorilla glue, any cyanoacrylate/superglue really) and smear it into the crack. Wait for it to dry, sand, then apply mineral oil to finish.
3. Chisel out the gouge, replace with cherry, wood glue into place. Plane it down, sand the entire table back to bare wood and refinish, assuming it's not a veneer.
If those big pieces aren't glued into place yet, I'd go straight to #3. Clean up the break to some square, flat edges and toss a thin strip of wood back in there when you glue the rest together. Make sure the new strip is standing proud of the rest of the pieces when you go to glue. Trim off the excess width after it dries, sand and refinish and you'll never see it again.
Thanks for the advice. Gonna try #1. You described perfectly the issue
Bondo. (aka minwax wood filler)
Some of my finest woodworking has been with bondo.
I've been on a kick about wanting more house plants in advance of the winter, so I whipped up a quick design and built two new plant stands custom sized to the windows in my living room and kitchen.
Attachment 388066
Attachment 388067
Attachment 388068
It's pretty simple- 2x2s and 2x6s with pocket screws. Man, I love my little kreg jig.
A clean garage, whaaaa?
Lol, the first step of woodworking for me is always to clean the garage.Quote:
Originally Posted by snoqpass
I swept and squeegeed it to clean up all of last winter's crud just in time for snow to start falling again.
Heh. Same here, and every weekend starts with me being pissed off at the Mrs. and kids because they toss their shit all over the garage during the week.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevo
Copper drying rack for the wood stove
Attachment 388342