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Tillamook, OR buoy is 33'@17s....
I know there is a shit ton of junk in that reading, but holy fuck there could be some size tomorrow. Stilltele, you may want to check out the eastside during the afternoon low tide. Could be good between the hook and crapitola.
surfed fun waves in town yesterday with 100 of my friends...at least there was enough swell/waves to go around. We're staying downtown and was out at 30th st/PP. I had fun. I'm thinking between hook/capitola today. I'm here with family and can't really bail on the wife/grom for half the day to go fall down a cliff and get beat up by the lip, as fun as that sound and all...
This was my first time out in a wetsuit in awhile. Ott, I think you have an R3 as well, do you find it especially heavy or restrictive compared to other manufactures?? I know I'm just being a puss, but I was toast after 2-3 hours of full rubber.
Yes. The r3 seems tighter than my 4/3 ebomb. But not very much. I've only worn mine two times so far as I find it so warm. That said, I don't find super restrictive. 2-3 hours is a pretty long session in my book. I'm in my 40s. When I was 17 I could surf longer, but now I'm old.
SF CDIP is 22.9@17. Yesterday it was about 8.5@14. So it should be much bigger today as that swell fills in. More north in it, but a whole lot more swell. There are even a few good breaks past crapitila, including a left reef and a roping right point when enough swell gets down there. Have fun. Tomorrow looks real fun. And 70f
double session day with therudeness from canadia. this morning was 9 feet @ 11 seconds with a good angle. solid head high with consistent sets a coupla feet or so ohead. was the 1st to paddle out at York at 815 am:fm:. winds were offshore and brisk. close to 2 hours of that had me pretty satisfied with the day. well little did I know that the winds would become less brisk in the pm and the buoy was reading 7-8 feet @ 13/14 seconds. bout the same size as the morning sesh but even better shape and SUPER clean. was just therudeness and I out there just north of the restaurant from 3-430pm. unreal. too much fun. good power and steep/fast for York standards.
the 5'8 monkfish quad rode dreamy
ogt tomorrow:)
rog
pic from York yesterday. love having this as an easy walk from the house.
http://25.media.tumblr.com/ea113d0f7...g2oo3_1280.jpg
rog
The weather at my little ski hill in NY is NOT COOPERATING..
My 2 Boys made it to the injured reserve in the 2nd week of our Ski Season so I might as well put the Board in the water here on Wrong Island NY
rog post , and stilltele'n surfing the eastside got me thinking about swell direction, exposure and all that ocean bottom shape stuff.
I surfed last night a reef/point tube that was big enough that I wish I had something a bit bigger than the 6.0. I did not want the mini gun that some opted for, but I was often late through my waves, and occasionally fell behind, leaving me feeling like I made poor choices.
Just a few miles west, at a spot that still pretty much faces south, I heard this morning the faces were in the BIG range, and this from a guy I trust when it comes to the XL and XXL categories. I had another buddy surfing a few miles east of me, and his waves were waist to chest high. Huge difference.
I also look at rog pic, and I know scale is hard, but I also know York pretty well. 7-8@14 sounds to me like it should be hitting in the 10' plus range, when perfectly exposed to the swell. He is reporting solid head high with some plus. And I started thinking about all the drag one gets in ME, from the Georges Banks, to the shoals and headlands, slowing things down. I can't imagine a 5'8" being fun in 7@14, as I was getting 5-7@14 between the holiday's and maxing out my 6.0. Now, rog might be a better surfer, but I doubt that :biggrin: More what I mean, is how a beach in ME can work that swell into small, manageable, fun waves, but here, one needs to tuck them selves into a bay, or well behind headlands, or you will be wanting a some what bigger board.
I'm also beginning to want that bigger board again. I rode my old 6'7" today, and that thing is much easier to get into bigger waves, has way more hold on the drop and is simply easier in the juice, but fuck is it a total bitch to turn. Guess I need to get off here, sell some shit, and call , my shaper up before winter is over.
Surf is running. It will drop down to chest high by Thursday, but things look good for this coming weekend and the long range. This could be the Mavs weekend.
/blog
there was some angle to the swell outta the southeast. I heard moody/wells was an absolute paddle battle and well overhead. there were probably some 10' faces at York fer sure, but it didn't seem all that big to me. was pretty easy getting around and thru it with very little current and the 5'8 paddles so friggin well it feels like I'm gliding on top of the water. duck dives easy deep too and you were ducking at least 8-10 or more waves one after the other after every ride. short sands was perfect chest high+ A-barrels coming in. small due to angle but just a half mile from York beach. your waves travel farther in deeper water so your waves are thicker, more powerful, faster, and larger.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
I may be a better surfer than you
when it's knee to waist high:D
rog
fun afternoon @ the OGT today:)
wind was kinda on it @ York, shorts was fkna perfect, clean, but only knee to thigh, so I headed up ogt way to find just one supper out and lovely waist/chest with plus sets rolling in. the winds that were fucking York were romancing ogt. surfed the ladies tee as it kept the growing number of surfers (10 total) all sitting on top of one another closer to the point. looked like they were trading off epic closeouts as well. my lil honey hole had me pumping rights that were long enough that I was getting out and walking back. no one bothered me. love it when it works out that way.
gonna take a break tomorrow and get back at it Wednesday as winds/tides are very favorable for many spots.
rog
SS is also a supe protected cove style thing. Total shadow on the se, but i have seen the ne bounce and wedge in there as well. In general, ME is super complicated coastline compared to here.
Speaking of tides, fuck tides. My son went off to school with his mom for the morning and I had a 5.5 (which is fairly high out here, say like a 10' tide there) peaking right in the middle of my spare morning with a nice swell easing back down from 12@15 towards 8@12 with a lot of junk mixed in. Town was swamped, but would have done a great job lining things up. Up north was swamped, more due to the junk, than tide. Still, put on my shoes and found a few fun bombs, but it would have been nice to surf west cliff on a monday morning.
I have a two hour window thurs morn and tide again will be an issue.
Oh yeah, no duh the 5.8 duck dives well. so does my 6.0, even the 6.7, not so much the 7.6 or 8.4
and the 5'8 has that sweet ass pulled in thinned out tail to a rounded pin. main reason why it works well in biggerbetter surf. has a vee bottom as well so it goes rail to rail effortlessly even tho it's 20" wide. vee bottoms turn any wind chop/texture to smoothness. haven't thrustered it yet. was pretty fun n loose as a quad yesterday:eek::D
things gonna be a weapon as a thruster.
rog
Wednesday:)
precious morning at York beach. 7am, sunny, warm (relatively speaking), and fun lil thigh/waist high well formed surf to play on. as much as I loved the size and power of sunday and even Monday afternoon, this am was just downright playful on the cordless 5'8. gutless, but long lined up walls meant full rail to rail top to bottom momentum surfing. good day to work on generating speed out of so little. just fun:)
there's hope for tomorrow morning. will be checking it early.
rog
hope? this morning was tits!
buoy held all night and then some. waist to chest glass with just a few of us out. hero surfing. flying high trimming, deep cutty's, and lip smack after lip smack. fucking perfect form across from the general store this am. 2014 is ruler so far!
tomorrow?:)
rog
Are you responding to yourself? I knew Maine got lonely in winter, but this is a bit much. Can't you just become a seasonal alcoholic like everyone else?
Swell is holding up here. Too low a tide, but sunset barrels were fun none te less. A little work to connect the sections, but not too reefy. Best part about it last night was after the sun went down, surfing by the light of pinks and reds bendig over the horizon, when on the opposite a huge head light of a moon came up over the ridge. Gorgeous. Might try to sneak a one hour session when the boy is in class today. Gonna miss the big one coming as we will be back up in the non-snow. Little guy is stoked to hit the slopes.
Can't i be both?
Rog
Random question of the day:
See the following image of SD county bathymetry. http://www.sccoos.org/data/bathy/?r=7
The big canyon towards the bottom is Black's. There's a smaller one that is less pronounced a little further north, that feeds right into the break that I normally surf.
Is this enough of a difference/canyon from the rest of the surrounding ocean to filter swell like I always think it does (but surfline never seems to mention)? I'd assume if it is filtering swell, it would only be SSW swells, or would anything with any sort of W in it get pulled that way?
Or maybe I'm just crazy and like to think I'm surfing waves that are over waist high :fmicon:
Mostly dentist around here, not scientist. So, yeah, dunno. But. Our canyon here does an odd thing. Mostly works the nw swell, mid and long period, draws it in, and peaks it up. Mid period west swells march right in, but don't gain size, and basically close out. Long period west swells seem to disappear. Or rather, they travel to the north end of the bay and find their way onto south facing points. Short period swell has no appreciable effect, but that makes sense, since they travel on the surface and don't reach down to canyon depths. Anyway, point is, it likely has some effect on the mid and long period stuff, as well as the short, 'cause ya never know. But you'll need to watch it and learn it and figure out what it does to your waves. And then don't go tell surfline.
My son and i sat in front of a reef and enjoyed lunch. No one out. A few excellent waves. Say a foot oh tube type thing. Plenty of decent ones. So sad no one was there to surf them.
Oh. And that forecast is one, even for you socal punks. starts this weekend and goes through the next. wonder if they will run mavs on this coming sunday, or keep fingers crossed for the big one out back behind the horizon. BTW, it was 74F at my car, parked at the beach, around 12:20.
thanks ott. will have to keep studying.
heading to baja tomorrow morning to try to get some uncrowded forerunners
^Let us know how it was, and if you have room next time I would love to try out my shiny new passport :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by jtran10
^Holy fuck Rog, super legit :yourock:Quote:
Originally Posted by icelanticskier
For what it's worth it seems to negate the swell when it is runnin directly up the canyon. Angle it and the wedge effect comes into play.Quote:
Originally Posted by jtran10
twas fun. not many folks out. many were searching points for shelter and dry hair paddle outs. pfft:DQuote:
Originally Posted by PowerWhore7
been pretty damn good all week with surf continuing thru the weekend. missed today due to nasty head cold. the super sesh yesterday probably didn't help, but yesterday was too pretty to pass up. hoping to be well enough to get out tomorrow.
Baja sounds nice:)
nice Utah stoke!
rog
Ottime,
Have you met my good friend Mark M. Originally from Salem, M.A. Regular foot... in the lineup at Steamers?
Don't think so. I rarely surf the lane due to crowds. I'm mostly a weekend and evening warrior, so it gets packed that time of day. Although with pre school, I'll start getting some short mid morning sessions on T/Th. School is just down the street from the lane, so tide and swell allowing I'll likely be there. Next time I jump in on a right crowd I'll just call out for him.
I'm usually west and north of town. More swell, more juice, fewer people and more sharks.