Nice red top. Wrap the first 3" of legs with electrical tape so they don't splinter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
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Nice red top. Wrap the first 3" of legs with electrical tape so they don't splinter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
Are you checking/bracing the walls for square/plumb before framing/decking the 2nd story?
I thought I wrote that above.Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
I guess I missed that. Suggestion - even if everything is miraculously straight/square/plumb as you're framing, brace it anyway to keep it that way until you sheet/deck it.
I took out the braces when I connected all the walls and put on the top cap.Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
After I put in the joists, I rechecked.
No one is more surprised than me.
I'll take your suggestion though, thanks.
A little deck project I started back in March (with some advice from the home remodel thread). I figure I’m about 25% done with the decking and can share now…
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Looks nice!
Makes my knees hurt just looking at it though.
Second floor started.
Put back a brace, drove in the rest of the hanger nails.
Put in 2 sheets of 1/2 for the floor so far.
Cut the blocking for the second story floor joists per stiffening suggestions.
And a view down the tree alley to the West from the second floor.
Thanks. Knees feel fine thanks to some cheapo Husky knee pads. Even the knee with the ACL and tibial plateau surgeries! Now if I could only say the same for my trapezius on my drilling shoulder. The thing is on fire. Approximately 1300 screws in the deck so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by GiBo
I might be a bit worried about using 1/2" for flooring(without knowing your 2nd floor application) . 3/4" t&g is standard around here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
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It will just be a sleeping loft with a small seating area. It's only 10x12.Quote:
Originally Posted by lifelinksplit
Spanky...what is your goal for spacing/gaps between the boards after final shrinkage?Quote:
Originally Posted by spanky
Gotcha. Even so I might recommend flat blocking your plywood seams. I assume you're 16" o.c for floor joists. And/or maybe use some type of 3/4" flooring to add a bit of structure. You get a fair amount of flex with just 1/2". Just my 2cents as a framer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
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Did the cuts for the blocking on the 2x8 floor joists on 16" centers that only span 10 feet for the "seating" area, 6 foor span for the mattress area . We will add some flooring later, likely t&g pine (yeah it's soft, but there shouldn't be any hardsoled shoes up there).Quote:
Originally Posted by lifelinksplit
If you're doing t&g pine flooring you'll be fine then. The blocking I was suggesting is flat 2x between joists where the plywood seam is perpendicular to the joists or where the t&g plywood would add strength(less flex) whereas the mid-span vertical blocking helps reduce any bounce or "wobbling" from having a longer span. I'm sure I explained that clear as mud.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
Looks like a fun project Buster. I'm sure you'll enjoy the heck outta it.
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Pic 2. Interesting outlet location but I don't know shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mazderati
No set goal after shrinkage. I’m following manufacturer guidelines of 3/16” spacing. I wound up a little tighter than that next to the picture frame board. I believe these boards don’t shrink, but can expand after installation.Quote:
Originally Posted by gretch6364
Since #1 son is headed off back to kolledg shortly, I had to get the second story big wall up before he left.
First, some wall blocking. The #dreamshack seemed wobblier than I liked, so we're doing some blocking to firm it up. Cuts of precision and romance by our in house chainsaw seamstress.
Then some ceiling blocking pix along plywood seams as suggested.
Then some shots of the front facade with the second story wall up (tarped with rain forecast for tomorrow). Did the wall with 1 uncut header all the way across like the first floor walls. I choose to spend on material a little more to avoid more cuts and fitting.
Next: birdmouth cuts for the rafters.
That's one bomber sauna.
Buster
Sorry to be asking this now when you’re so far along!
I’m trying to understand why there is no top plate on the stud wall. How are the studs attached to the rim joist? It looks like a doubled rim joist with a spacer is the top of the framed wall? Did you get confirmation on that detail from someone?
There is a plate on top and bottom of the first floor wall. The second floor top doesn't have one yet.
I see your confusion. It looks like a doubled up rim joist with a plate on top to tie in the corners, then subfloor and 2nd story plate, etc. I’m no architect, but for a shack it should be ok, right? I’d worry about twisting a bit more with those toe nails and get the sheathing on ASAP.Quote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
Lots of wood in this thread, good thing dentistry has been considered essential.
How much do canvas makers get paid? Not enough IMO. One panel in, four more to be rigged.
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Nice retractable
What is that stuff/where'd you get it? I'm looking for something similar.Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain