Printable View
Then I'm saved!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Now to find the patch kit, the entire content of our house is out on the back patio while the new floors are being installed and I don't know that I left the box of bike parts in a particularly accessible spot...
way back in the day at the corner garage i can remember gluing patches on the inside of car tires, then we would brush the glue on the patch, light it on fire for 10-15 sec ,blow it out and we called that a hot patch ... seemed to work
For the price of a tire patch kit vs walking out I just replace the patch kit every year cuz once the glue tube has been openned its gona dry out pretty quick , I swap innertubes take them home, use up the old patch kits in the comfort of my shop with a drink, I always have a new kit on every bike and I try to use up the old kits
Like the grocery store. Even convenience stores often have tire patch kits.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dantheman
Anyone have epinions on this?Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
You could justify another durable BB (RWC, CC Hellbender, etc.) by saying you could swap it to your main bike if/when the main bike one wears out. The fact that it's a winter bike means it deserves good bearings.Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
Shimano BB every time if possible. Dirt cheap and serviceable so they have the potential to last a while.
I’ve patched loads of tires with regular tube patches and maybe a couple tires with auto patches. Alway set up tubeless again, even in sidewall and right up against the bead. Never had one fail, even when I could see the patch pushing out through the hole (after inflating to 40psi)Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
Usually the decision isn’t so much “too cheap to replace” as much as “too cheap and/or lack of foresight” to have new rubber lying around. Oh, and too cheap to pay $100 for a tire at the LBS that I can get online for $50 and get the actual tread/width/rubber/layup that I want.
Even when a replacement arrives, I usually shelf it and ride the old one out until the tread is ready to go.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Yeah I've had good success with normal vulcanizing (not the stick on kind) tube patches on quite a few occasions. Just clean the inside of the tire well.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
If the tire still rolls straight, it's worth trying to salvage, IMO. If it's bad enough to have a significant wiggle or hop, it's gotta go cause that shit's just gonna get worse.
That’s great feedback on the tire patches!
Cinch is 30mm right? Does Shimano make a Cinch compatible threaded BB? I’ve got a brand new chainring and color matched 165mm cranks so no chance I’m replacing the entire crankset ...Quote:
Originally Posted by bagtagley
Shimano doesn't. Hope does and mine lasted really wellQuote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
Wheels MFG also makes one that is well reviewed. I've gone through a couple RF BBs in the last few years and I've decided that the next time I blow one up I'm switching to Wheels or Hope. I take care of my bike, live on the east side of Washington and don't clean it with a pressure washer and yet I have to replace one every other year.Quote:
Originally Posted by SchralphMacchio
Ive heard that about wheels mfg as well. Probably decent stock with them to. My hope went with a frame i sold but it was 3 years old when i sold it
Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
I live on the other side of WA and therefore replace mine a little more frequently. I had a 30mm wheels mfg and those bearings lasted longer than raceface for sure but they didn't really blow me away. I liked that I could just replace the bearings, but when you factor in the cost of their removal tool or something similar, the math doesn't work out until you've replaced it a few times.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
Thanks mags for the suggestions and feedback ...
Soooo:
* Hope 30mm threaded BB w/ stainless steel bearings = $108
* Wheels MFG 30mm threaded BB
Abec 3 - $73
Angular Contact Bearing = $95
Ceramic = $140
* RWC 30mm threaded BB
Chromium Steel ACB = $89
Stainless Steel ACB = $110
Ceramic ACB = $135
Seems like I should just go RWC Stainless Steel ACB for $110 like I was originally thinking, heh. With the 30mm spindle and therefore smaller ball bearing size, I think having ACB helps even the bearing load and increase wear life. And stainless because ... shit its just an extra $20 and I hose my bike down a lot living in Western Oregon.
When I was faced with this decision years ago on my Bronson after moving here, I actually can't remember if I went stainless or ceramic, hah! And having just pulled it and regreased it I'm too lazy to pull it and check the product code ... but I bet I went ceramic ...
You know, I think I have a 30mm Wheels ACB set in my drawer that I could let go if you're interested. I'll try to remember to double check tonight.
Those were called "sizzle patches" or "hot patches." Gemplers.com used to sell them (and may still - I dunnno), but I don't know about applying that much heat to a bike tire carcass vs a car tire.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
Regarding "rubber cement" I think one needs to be careful to be sure that it's vulcanizing cement. Craft stores sell "rubber cement" but it's for adhering such things as paper to posterboard, and I don't believe it's the same stuff. And FWIW, you can buy the vulcanizing cement in a small metal can with a brush-top lid that won't dry out nearly as quickly (esp. if you wrap the threads w/ teflon tape). Great for the shop!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1b6df87648.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by grinch
I bought the Dakine thrillium pant. Haven't used them yet, but they seem pretty good.
Lots of features on those. Havent seen bike wear companies using schoeller. Looks like a solid optionQuote:
Originally Posted by jackstraw
Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
I could swear that I used a vulcanizing bicycle patch kit that you actually lit with a match or a lighter when I was a kid. Anyone remember those? I recall there was a shallow aluminum tray with something that you would ignite with a match to vulcanize the rubber. Maybe my brain is playing tricks on me again though.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
yeah i don't know if all rubber cement is created equal
10 15 sec might be a high number just blow it out before the tire goes up
Kitsbow does, but $$$. I have Schoeller Dryskin -era Cloudveil that I love and want to keep going as long as I can.Quote:
Originally Posted by grinch
I could see kitsbow using it. I wonder how well kitsbow does. I wouldve thought they priced themselves out of the market. I like understated design but i think theyve gone past that right to bland as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by evasive_MT
Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app
Any magic tricks for seating a tire on a dented rim? My e13 rim has a couple sizable dents in both the sidewalls and rim bead that don't seem to cause issues while riding but are preventing me from seating a tire to replace one that I cut. Was thinking of trying to score some fancy wheels this winter so would like to try and keep this one going a bit longer and would prefer not to use a tube. Clearly new rims will need inserts, maybe I can get away with a slightly lighter tire to compensate but the new england rocks are sharp.
Bend it back?
There aren’t really any other ‘tricks’ that I know about. I use a crescent wrench or Snap On duck bill pliers.
Anyone else?