These skis rip! Kopi will dig them.
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Definitely not. Check out Knut's templates for those bindings. Depending on BSL and how picky you are about mount point, you might be able to re-use one pair of toe holes, but heel hole width is different and fore-aft spacing of the toe holes is different. Good news is, brakes will swap.
I know what you mean. My DDs the last couple of years were Dynastar Pro Riders (lp105) and before that GPOs. Last year I rode a buddy's Monster 88s and the narrow waist combined with the short turn radius took some getting used to. They were so damn quick. After that I knew I needed to get me some of that action.
Mounted my own fucking moment skis. Thanks to all in this thread that took the time to answer questions I had!
Attachment 263563
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Nice setup
If we could zoom in to the underfoot area, I'm certain we'd find the remnants of a ski shop sticker.
Wow, I must have done a great job mounting them.
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I did my GF's new pair of skis today w/ standard pozi screws. I forgot how pain-free it can be. My usual mounts involve inserts, dodging old holes/plugging old holes with wood, endless tapping. From printing template to done it was under an hour, probably closer to 30.
Big thank you to all that have contributed. First time with inserts and all good. A couple of pictures for my process on a pair of Quixote from GS.
Using calipers from the bottom side with a centering ruler taped to a larger scraper.
Attachment 263980
Using a square off the edge and dimple to mark center line. Back check the line with straight tape pull from top.
Attachment 263981
Mark CL three times and connect marks to show CL down middle of ski
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I swear by templates printed on transparency film. Super easy to double check previous mounts.
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Using sharp awl to center punch
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Borrowed a drill press since it was inserts and would not do it another way. The Binding Freedom bit needs a stop collar or use the drill press.
Attachment 263987
I used my drill bit guide taping
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Cleaned the inserts with a bit of acetone. Nice thing is the acetone evaporates if you leave them overnight.
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All inserts in with epoxy
Attachment 263990
Finished up with the rest of family quiver with a set of FKS 18. Eager to test at Whitewater next week and maybe Baldface. Protests are going on the heli for sure.
Attachment 263991
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Clean work
Dig the transparency hack.
Ive. I like ike the calipers with centering ruler trick.
I couldn't find the exact template but Slidewright has one here - http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/skicenter.pdf
yup - prob not a great called a new metal ski like this first try - but after some futzing without the right bit....got
her done. Get the right bit.... and tap. Still -own skis f'ing mounted. Attachment 264079
Margotron- thanks for all your posts. Spent hours combing through this treasure trove of a thread this weekend and your posts have been awesome. Definitely going to grab a die at ACE today.
That said, I’m an idiot jong and pretty lost/overwhelmed.
If I have my own skis already mounted for my BSL with Pivot 12s and 14s, and I want to install inserts in them, should I:
1) remove screws (have BF stuff handy), check threads to make sure they’re good, and then install inserts with GFlex? Or:
2) remove screws, plug with dowels and GFlex, and start from scratch in a day or two?
3) Remove screws (have BF stuff handy), redrill holes with BF bit, tap with BF tap, drop of GFlex in each hole, inserts in, loosely attach bindings with machine screws.
This last step will make sure the inserts are properly aligned while the epoxy cures. You might even want to turn the skis upside down (bases up) while the epoxy cures to make it flows towards the topsheet, to better seal against water intrusion.
Inserts do not have the same outer diameter or thread as the binding screws that are currently in your skis, so it doesn't matter if the binding screw holes in your ski still have good threads. The BF bit will drill these out.
No, leave the bindings on there. The idea here is for the binding to hold all the screws/inserts at the proper angle in the threads. If your insert can wobble a bit in the ski, and you let the epoxy cure without the binding screwed in, you might end up with an insert out of alignment. No way to correct this once the epoxy is cured.
I'm sure lots of people don't bother with this step. If you are sure you drill your holes dead straight and tap perfectly, you shouldn't need to do it. But if you bung up the threads a bit while tapping, or drill a hole slightly crooked, or even just have soft core material (looking at you Dynafit), this step ensures that when you take a binding off the ski and put it back on, you'll be able to get all the machine screws in. The first insert mount I did was two sets at once in the same pair of skis, and the set that didn't cure with a binding in it was a bit messed up.
Edit: the main disadvantage to leaving the bindings on while the epoxy cures is the binding might end up epoxied to the topsheet. This usually isn't a big deal; you should be able to pry the binding off after taking the screws out without damaging the ski. What is really bad is if you get epoxy on the insert-machine screw thread interface; when you try to take out the screw you end up taking out the insert, too. Don't use too much epoxy!