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^^this is what it feels like to be stabbed by a stingrayQuote:
Originally Posted by Atrain505
^^WAIT WHAT!!! Someone told me to rub my own shit into it and really didn’t work, made things worse actually :wink:Quote:
Originally Posted by Atrain505
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
Morning and afternoon sessions in North County today...:)
http://imageshack.us/a/img62/8326/k1ux.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img23/2281/rt4o.jpg
NICE^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
great morning here. buoy running 9 feet @ 8 seconds with a nice northeast angle and perfect offshore winds. was the only one out at 830am along the mile long stretch o beach. with temps in the upper teens, duck diving was a face chilling endeavor, but worth it to keep the "crowds" away.
easy breezy cruisy rail to rail fun.
should be fun here/there for the coming days.
rog
dawn patrol again today, this time the tide was low enough to give the new 5'10" a go.
really loved how it just seemed to sit in the pocket, where my quad just runs down the line right away. Also noticed the thruster set up when making drops. Again, my quad just starts going and you really need to be on top of it or it just runs away. The thruster hung up more waiting for my body to catch up.
Paddling-wise, didn't notice any real difference in difficulty between the 6'2" and 5"10". Duck diving definitely easier with the volume of the 5'10" though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so8AioAdaNs#t=24
OB on 12/16
fuck^^^^^^^^^the 5'8 woulda been perfect:fm:
rog
Some of these photos of OBSF are mind blowing.
http://magicseaweed.com/news/macking...23628590345047
Like I said, finally feels like home. Good to be in head high plus again.
I do believe that Monday morning was pretty damn good at certain submerged reefs along the coast between SC and SF. While that footy of OB looks like a bit of fun, it does, knowing the beach, feel a bit hectic. Notice how many empty waves there are. Kind of why I prefer a reef to beach.
The first pic in the MS link is such the classic big clean OB day shot.
Anyway, 13.1@11 right now. Fuck that wind swell shit. More real swell due to arrive late this weekend. I think I'll spend today cutting and setting some railroad ties to start the stair case.
glad yer liking the downsizing.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by jtran10
rog
When I read jtrans description of the thruster hanging up, at first I thought, what, then I thought more about it as I was hanging in the park. I can see how that might be, but I think of it more acting like a gas pedal effect, although, it does take a moment to get going, so I can see the 'hang up'
I like how my truster tail feels more than other fin set ups, I've tried. You can really control your speed with slight adjustments to your back foot weighting and position. And quickly. You can use that hung up feeling to getting really tight;ly pocketed, then release, and absorb all the energy from deep in the wave and project out. I also feel like it helps in getting really vertical, and back, and on top of the wave, instead of surfing out more on the shoulder. Anyway. I'll have a pic soon to explain what I mean.
ott - I meant to imply a positive using "hang up". The biggest issue I have on my quad making steeper drops on bigger days is that the board just runs away from me. I'm sure I'm partially to blame for not having much experience yet in those conditions on a shorter board. Thruster seems to accelerate less quickly, but easily has the same top speed if I want it to zip down the line (based on 1 session..).
The biggest thing I wanted to start working on is surfing more vertically, and surfing with the energy of the wave, as opposed to away from it, if you know what I mean. That being said I'm excited to take it out to the point-style break that I dig a lot to get some more time to make turns on a long wave.
crowds always seem to thin w/ many unridden set waves at other CA beach breaks known to hold well on bigger swells like blacks beach.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
^^^Yes, true, but that was not raw footage. He just did not capture a ton of rides, but was present for quite a few sets. There are days at OB, at that size, when the sand bars are well lined up and easy to read, with wide channels. On those days, a lot of rides get had. On hectic days, when the peaks are shifting, and the currents raging, well, they look more like the video.
There are a few days I can recall, mostly at OB and Moss, when the waves were like machines. And the sand bottom was my beloved. Big days. One that was just 4 feet overhead. One that was 3 times OH. A few in between. Other days are a bit more work, and some, in my mind, I just needed to be on rock.
Anyway.
jtran, I think we are on the same track. I gues I feel (the few I rode) quads did not so much accelerate, as slip away down the wave, if that makes sense. I guess what I was alluding to in fast acceleration of the thruster was its accuracy in changing from stop to go. And once I get a half pump off my thruster, I'm moving. Quads seemed sluggish in that respect, but would get going without the pump action.
I put those words into action often. Almost blow the drop, rebound, luckily get all my energy going straight up to the lip of the wave and unleash a huge gash on the lip. Sometimes it works to perfection, as if I almost meant to do it. I act like I been there before though, at least most times.Quote:
I guess what I was alluding to in fast acceleration of the thruster was its accuracy in changing from stop to go. And once I get a half pump off my thruster, I'm moving.
Yeah. There is the bottom turn grip too. That which allows you to get vertical.
quad is pretty much the deal here. at least for me and many others I know and surf with. I find that to get the most out of a quad it's more about subtle quick flicky lighter foot movements vs big power and all out laying into it. different waves here as you know. less wave power and more speed generating needed from the surfer. when I switch from quad to thruster on better wave days I definitely feel the hold, but miss the looseness of the quad. kinda like leather vs plastic in the tele world.
nice to have both options.
rog
This next swell is coming in with 22-24 sec period, then peaking at about 6'@18. Not too quad friendly. But it makes me smile to finally be getting some decent swell. Still no 14'@20s, but it will make due.
Speaking of hugeness, I love it here. Mavs will be pushing well past 30', while Bomboras will be shoulder high perfect, playful tubes. Something for everyone when we get a real swell.
Speaking of the looseness of the quad, and the Maine waves, and such. I used to have a 6'5" and a 6'7" in the quiver. 6'5" was my summer utility board, and the 6'7" was for winter. The winter board had a much tighter tail block, to assist with hold, and the extra energy that winter tends to bring. Now that I'm riding the 6' year round, I kind of want to get a 5'x" with a five fin set up, to use as my main summer (smaller/weaker) surf board. I think the quad would be fun in a lot of the wind swell and smaller surf we get. You don't need as much hold on the drop, and certainly don't need the same power and drive off the bottom. I guess I will need to work on my light and flicky movements.
blahhhh blah blah to all yalls tech talk,,,, ya sound like 2nd year ski techs hahaaa,, anyways,,,, headhigh today, ya again but no its been flat for 3 days,,,,,, 2 to 1 girls to guys high season tropical warm trunkable heart warming paradiseeeee ,,, and you cali boys must be bummin about the snow,,, yall should be in the alps duh.... villa california out,,,,
You will love a 5x ott. Short wide flat fast 5 fin rounded pin pulled in behind a single wing bump. My monkfish is my old rocket and mini driver wrapped into one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
Rog
went out this morning. Feel like a whimp telling this to rog and ott, but 45 degree air temps, shifty head high sets that kept breaking outside of me, and I spent more time duck diving and getting beat up than surfing.
conditions really cleaned up well from yesterday when the wind turned offshore late yesterday evening, but peaks were just popping up all over the place, with the random head high + combo set.
Would really like to go out again after the tide drops this afternoon, but don't think that's in the cards. Heading to SLC tomorrow AM, so no more surf until Xmas day for me.
Fuck it, I am willing to admit that this is how my day went as well. Still pulled off some long rides and hollow sections but for the most part I suck :nonono2:Quote:
Originally Posted by jtran10
(not saying you suck jtran, just me :) )
mmmmmm, love random, live random. makes/keeps ya sharp. just like skiing the EAST:D.Quote:
Originally Posted by jtran10
rog
random is fun when the surf is small. makes it kind of fun, sort of. i like a wave that keeps ya sharp, but prefer it to not be due to random, shiftyness so much, but rather warped bowlyness. again, a fetish for the rocks. gonna go find a bunch to surf on top of in the morning. oh, and i apologize for my burp back there,,,,, damn imaginary self.
So, yeah, it has been pretty damn shitty around here this fall. IMHO, that is still pretty fucking good by most places standards. A sample of the shit we have had to deal with.
Getting vertical.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-oytHzwov0M.../autumn012.JPG
Why even bother with the knee to waist high crap?
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v3aQuk5ezT...0/vsurf008.JPG
Just some scenery.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ox3yUwXhtt...00/surf007.JPG
Cruising the cliffs is the local pastime.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pr1kcRDw6c...00/surf002.JPG
Quick snappy thingy.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IZ8UZIzgXj...00/surf004.JPG
More poor shots and words of our crappy surf wavestoke.
^^very nice! Sick link as well...
This big wave contest could be super interesting...
http://asplivescoring.com/puntagaleachallenge/
Starts in like 12hrs and should be fucking huge.
^^^^^^^^sweet stoke ottman!
rog