excellent, I dig that.
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excellent, I dig that.
Beautiful joinery.
Some more domino joinery projects. Montessori chairs/tables copied from some Etsy designs.
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Borrowed some design ideas from ikea on these book racks, and would 100% just have bought those. But these are twice as long as the ikea ones and my client really wanted them to hold lots of books. No problem, just meant more peaceful nights sanding away in the garage. Client’s little brother is sneaking away…
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Perfect excuse to buy a kerfmaker to get these top rails to fit nicely. Used 18mm ply for the top rails so they wouldn’t be too flimsy, but didn’t want them to protrude.
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Used the leftover rainbow paint colors from my daughter’s big rainbow wall in her room to add some color.
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Lots of nice work the last couple of pages.
Because it is going to be wet 100% of the time from the other side so why bother sealing the other side with something that is supposed to keep water out? Also because putting Thompson's water seal on cedar is a literal crime.Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
I was wanting a vintage looking door to fit with house it was built in 1920, good wood ones are available but not very reasonably priced the better ones were $400-800. Decent hardware that looks good takes some searching aroundQuote:
Originally Posted by ::: :::
Why is it a literal crime?Quote:
Originally Posted by RootSkier
If someone wants to preserve the color of raw cedar than water sealing the outside makes sense. Appearance is the main reason for all wood finishes btw.
My point isn't that you're necessarily wrong; it's that when you drop bombshells like that you ought to explain yourself.
Thompson’s is a surface sealer that’s only marginally effective at protecting the wood but really effective at preventing the penetrating sealer you buy after you realize you’re gonna spend the rest of your days reapplying Thompson’s from properly penetrating the wood
Thompson's ( the chapstick of exterior wood finishes) if you want to reapply regularly/annually. Personally. I'd use/recommend only a Penofin or Sikkens Product. There are others that maybe even better, but certainly harder to find. Make sure what ever you use inhibits mold/mildew; UV is your enemy! (and moss).
disclaimer: My house is constructed entirely of old growth timber-Clear redwood siding, cedar shakes, gutters, decking. and Douglas Fir framing/timbers- Sorry Tree Huggers!
Attachment 376310
Fucking inspectors.
We've never used Thompson's. It's at the bottom of Consumer Reports' ratings. Around here Superdeck is popular. Finding actual fact based information about wood finishes is hard--how they compare, how exactly do they work, etc.
Another vote for Penofin. I personally don't know shit about exterior wood sealers, but now having a house with a moderate amount of wood decks, garage door, pergola, etc, I go by the recommendation of a very old very well regarded painter who did out house. He knows his shit after 40 plus years in the business. Even the young up and coming painter, (not as experienced, but full of all the latest tech knowledge) agrees.
That frown does not look good. Seems like we have some issues….Quote:
Originally Posted by I Skied Bandini Mountain
i have an outside deck in a southeastern beach town that gets beat to shit. It was installed new approx 07/2019 I do not know the wood used. I'm pretty stoopid about this stuff and have been applying Olympic stain "waterguard simi-transparent" about every 6 months, give or take. what should I be using?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Svengali
I used Thompsons water seal on a deck made of 2x6 standard 2 & better,
it was pretty cheap and super easy to apply with a mop or whatever I forget exaclty
it was still beading water for a couple seasons
so how long is any finish gona last ?
Thread drift: framing nail guns; good brands, bad brands, you know I've had no share.
Stains? Cabot atw.
you can pull the sds for any commercial finish and often get a general idea. Old Thompson’s clear recipe was mineral spirits, a paraffin oil & a little fungicide.Quote:
Originally Posted by old goat
Time for the garden hose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabinfever
I haven't had a ton of framing nailers, but I currently have a Bostich BTF83WW Angle nailer that I would replace if I had to with the exact same one. I've had many different types of nailers from Bostich, Hitachi (now Metabo), Passlode and Porter Cable and I'll go with Bostich (a.k.a Stanley) for anything else from now on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
I've been using TPW on my cedar deck for years. It works well, or so I thought, but really only lasts about a year before it looks like hell. I'm intrigued with the Penofin and that's what I'm going with next time.
Edit because I forgot what nailer I had ...
I always look at the SDS for any new finish I use. But I don't know enough about the chemistry to be able to predict performance from the SDS. Any oil based finish with a low percentage of solids will penetrate--but beyond that I rely on what independent testing--CR, Fine Woodworking, Fine Homebuilding--that I can find. Surface film finishes and penetrating finishes both have their place (a lot of finishes these days are both to some degree) but the best way to protect exterior wood is still to let it dry, keep it off the ground, and don't allow places where moisture can be trapped--between sistered beams for example, as my neighbors just found out.Quote:
Originally Posted by dunfree
take your pick...Quote:
Originally Posted by Buster Highmen
https://www.bostitch.com/products/to...raming-nailers
Hitatchi is my choice for framing gun my Senco got tossed off a roofQuote:
Originally Posted by YoEddy
Hitachi FTMFW. Get the old school one with the steel magazine, not the weird space laser looking one.Quote:
Originally Posted by snoqpass
A designer I work with came up with the idea to use these plastic ceiling tiles on a barn door and spice cabinet door. It was a fun little project that required different methods from normal cabinet door construction since the panels are 3/4 high. I rabbeted the rails and style stiles so that the thin plastic lips could go behind and stay secure.
The stain is matched to the existing cabinets and the finish is waterborne poly, my favorite thing to spray. Lacquer is just too rugged so I avoid it whenever possible.
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Nailers - the pros use Metabo/Hitachi or Bostitch.
I own a harbor freight siding nailer and brad nailer and I am happy with them. I put two big boxes coil nails through the siding gun when I built my garage with zero issues. I feel like homeowner nail gun use is the perfect time to save money with a HF product. How often are you doing enough production work to justify pulling out the compressor and running hose?
Edit: I also feel like the siding nailer and brad nailer are the two nailers to buy if you are only buying two....
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