The chainsaw thread...

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Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

I usually start it on the ground the first time and whenever I set it down. I'll drop start it if I happen to be standing up holding it, but I have the general impression that drop starting isn't as as safe, probably for two reasons: that's what the federal wildfire agencies teach, and I rarely use the brake unless I'm walking across some tumble-ass steep shit or bad jackstraw. But like chaps, it's not a bad idea.

I guess I'm beginning to sound like a terrible unsafe example and you probably shouldn't listen to me, but it isn't that unsafe to stick your toe in the handle to start...if your boot fits in there.

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The best way to start a saw is neither drop starting nor on the ground. The 212 class now teaches groin starting, which is better than the old rollover start. Brake off, the handle goes into your crotch.

As far as the brake goes, you'd be surprised how many saw injuries are caused by bringing the saw to rest against the thigh without braking. Ground the saw against the wood to stop the chain, slight flick of the wrist. Not much effort. I brake whenever I'm repostioning or stopping to evaluate.

Had a really interesting project the other day. A 36 hollowed out PPine got struck by lightning, burned from the inside out. When it fell, it jackstrawed 2 juni's and another pine on 60% slope. Had to cut it from the top down, lots of braking to get footing and figure out which to cut next while 15' up.

I find the groin start works the best for getting a saw started and if the saw isn't cutting I put the brake on

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Originally Posted by XXX-er

I find the groin start works the best for getting a saw started and if the saw isn't cutting I put the brake on

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Rest it against my sequoia

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Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

I usually start it on the ground the first time and whenever I set it down. I'll drop start it if I happen to be standing up holding it, but I have the general impression that drop starting isn't as as .

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Starting on the ground is best especially from cold. it is nigh on impossible to set the chain running with your toe, because the saw has a safety handle with a lock out trigger on top - dead mans handle. Your hands are on the pull cord and the top handle.

Groin / crotch starting is perfectly sound method too.

I try to remember to do the above , but picked up some bad habits over the years, which I won't spell out here.

I use the brake as a matter of habit when I am moving, especially over rough or uneven ground

I still keep an old husqi 254, because I love it.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QMHykYTomdo

^^ Pixies, just cos its Saturday night, I'm having a whisky and reminiscing about when I was a full time cutter.

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Originally Posted by rather ripped

Another simple question: do you start your saw on the ground or drop start it. I always drop start mine with the brake on. Seems much safer than putting your foot in below the throttle.

Actually two questions; I use the brake a lot. If I walk or stop cutting in general I use the brake. The professionals seem to never use the brake? Is this ok in your opinion?

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I always drop start with the brake as well. A good buddy of mine is an arborist and he is the one that taught me to always use the brake when you're not cutting.

Crotch start.

Brake and chaps are a good idea if you're brushing, logging out trails or limbing and bucking trees on the ground. Too easy to be stomping around a bunch of shit and get lazy and hold the saw in left hand and unconsciously rest it on your leg while chain is spinning. Watched a girlfriend do that once logging out a trail. Cut right through the chaps and pants and hung up with the tiniest nick on her thigh.

I use the brake. I should probably buy some chaps and a hard hat.

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Originally Posted by telemike

Brake and chaps are a good idea if you're brushing, logging out trails or limbing and bucking trees on the ground. Too easy to be stomping around a bunch of shit and get lazy and hold the saw in left hand and unconsciously rest it on your leg while chain is spinning. Watched a girlfriend do that once logging out a trail. Cut right through the chaps and pants and hung up with the tiniest nick on her thigh.

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Situational awareness is your friend. That said, get the PPE.

So going back to the opening post, did Rideit ever build his lightweight saw?

WTF is this bullshit with going back to the original topic?

Tree fellers aren't quite the weight weenies that mtn bikers are. Still, I was hoping to see some stripped down saw with every steel fastener replaced with Ti bolts and screws by now. Maybe Ti clutch and springs, and bar, with steel chain contact surfaces. There just isn't that much steel that can be pared from a modern saw. It is still the best (only?) choice for chains and cranks and piston rings. The bar could be lightened though.

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Originally Posted by Jethro

Tree fellers aren't quite the weight weenies that mtn bikers are. Still, I was hoping to see some stripped down saw with every steel fastener replaced with Ti bolts and screws by now. Maybe Ti clutch and springs, and bar, with steel chain contact surfaces. There just isn't that much steel that can be pared from a modern saw. It is still the best (only?) choice for chains and cranks and piston rings. The bar could be lightened though.

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I was down at the local stihl dealer over the weekend and overheard a great conversation... A guy was saying the store should carry the high performance carbide chains. The shop owner asked how he felt about a $250 price tag on a 20" chain. Shut the guy up in a hurry.

What sort of price tag do you imagine is hanging off your titanium saw?

Well, I wouldn't spend any money on one, but I could appreciate a saw that cost four times what a standard saw did, but was 25% lighter. Just like bikers do with their ridiculously priced carbon bikes (I'm in this group). A better comparison would be the works motocross bikes the top pros ride. lots of trick parts and modded engines.

That carbide chain is for fire fighters, and while it probably stays sharp longer, I doubt it is lighter.

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Originally Posted by Jethro

Well, I wouldn't spend any money on one, but I could appreciate a saw that cost four times what a standard saw did, but was 25% lighter. Just like bikers do with their ridiculously priced carbon bikes (I'm in this group). A better comparison would be the works motocross bikes the top pros ride. lots of trick parts and modded engines.

That carbide chain is for fire fighters, and while it probably stays sharp longer, I doubt it is lighter.

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It's probably not lighter, but in the specturm of ti vs steel nuts and bolts, your rig would be lighter for fewer spare chains and not carrying a file and guide. Don't forget the carbon fiber scabard and ti bar tool!

you mean like racing saws?

So there's a Stihl 009 for sale locally (fairly cheap, too)- what do all y'all say? Nice little pee pee saw for light use around the house or forget it and just stick to my Stihl 026?

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Originally Posted by Hugh Conway

cuz there are so many big ole tree's left to cut within ten miles of you right now. Every cock needs a cock punch.

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Attachment 157262

Nope. Nothing big here. Not 1/2 mile down the hill. Nope. Not cut by a guy who lives a mile down the hill. Nope.

That's not a big old growth tree. you know, what I fucking said. Could have cut a couple that diameter today (well, they are free to cut, I don't have a big dick saw). Keep telling me I suck mike and picking fights though; you've got a great big boner for it.

Nope. Just a big tree. Not BIG. Like I said.

Your too easy to spin out these days. Getting soft Carl,

Have some ketchup. It has natural mellowing agents to help get you through life's hard times. Maybe even dip some delicious bacon in your ketchup. Mm mm good!

any tree removal mags on this thread anymore?

getting some quotes to drop some trees (cedar and pine about 18-24" dbh) around my house I can't deal with - waiting for the guy I pictured above to come by and give me a quote - I'm told he's the best deal in town - other guys have quoted about $500/tree for bigger ones and $300/tree for a couple smaller ones using a boom truck - that's with minimum work by them - they get 'em down and I deal with the rest - I'll keep the logs as is in whatever lengths they end up in and cut and split for firewood - I can burn or haul the slash

$ound about right?

Likely has no reference to your location but up here the guy I worked with charged $1200 per day.

If we did small trees and took down multiple it was $1200.

If we took down a big sucker that took all day it was $1200.

If we topped some stuff for view it was $1200

Windowing $1200

Hedging $1200

Pretty simple pricing. We had all the business we could handle.

Actually that helps. Looking at $1200-1500 so far for a day's worth of work.

Well, a day's worth of work for them. A week or more for me but I get the firewood.

MOAR FIREWOOD!

Agree with pay by the day, 12-15 isn't bad for a reputable service, assuming they'll buck to manageable lengths and get rid of the chips. You might be able to get it cheaper if you take on some of the cleanup, anything to do with chipping I'd have them do though.

I think need a new chain, its just for bucking up firewood ... 250 drivers thanks ...


https://www.facebook.com/12984131045...565135/?type=1

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Originally Posted by Viva

So there's a Stihl 009 for sale locally (fairly cheap, too)- what do all y'all say? Nice little pee pee saw for light use around the house or forget it and just stick to my Stihl 026?

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Absolutely. A quiver of saws is a good thing. I inherited my Dad's small Stihl and it is great for what I need it for in a semi-urban environment. No logging, just trimming the odd branch or bucking up small stuff that falls down. And because it is small, it is less fatiguing to use, especially trimming in hard to reach places.

I can't believe that guy tried this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0bn9ZztXDc

Wowzers!

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Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper

I can't believe that guy tried this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0bn9ZztXDc

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That's badass.

Amazing. No comments yet. Anyone bet the backstory was something like the house was worth less than the cost of topping it out so the lumberjack gambled, if he gets it dropped he gets paid and if he missed no pay but no liability?

I saw this on FB a couple months back. Just as impressive the second time around. Mad skills for sure. I never would have attempted that back when I was in that world. Way too much liability. Crane pick for me or walk away.

Chain bar oil question MS 260.

so I got a MS 260 from the outlaws. Not sure how old it is but hasn't seen a whole lot of use so scored well. I used the saw briefly a few years ago & remember the bottom was always covered in chain oil. Judging by the mess in the container it still does, but there's a good chance the outlaws never cleaned it properly either.

I've read that there should be a adjustment screw on the bottom of it saw. I can see the hole & the marking but no screw. A long flat blade screw driver goes into to pretty much the other side of the clutch, behind the clutch.
Does this mean my saw has an auto or non-adjustable chain oiler?
Do I need to worry about it using too much oil?
Can it be fixed or should I just use it & make sure it doesn't run of of oil? Can't remember how quickly it went through oil but I'm not aware that it ever ran out.

Edit to ask will any file guide work for sharpening? So long as the round file is the correct size for the chain?

My 261 always runs out of fuel before it runs out of chain oil which is what you want

http://www.stihl.co.za/STIHL-Product...30/MS-260.aspx
Like the 261 I believe the 260 the smallest of the pro saws and a real screamer, that bottom picture with the cherman text is a pict of your oiler adjustment, mine came with a plastic suitcase and there is oil in the bottom of it after sitting around for awhile, some oil does come from being spilt will refilling, the guy who gave us a chainsaw safety course last weekend calls it "a Valdez " sez the problem with that is that the oil attracts/gums up the saw with sawdust which could cause probs so because the saw was designed to run out of fuel before it runs out of oil ... don't overfill the oiler

http://www.husqvarna.com/ca/en/suppo...ing-the-chain/

I like using this ^^ filing guide and it needs to be the correct guide for your chain they are color coded

http://www.stihlusa.com/stihl_owners...260_manual.pdf

The manual from the Google. Seems your model should have the usual oil adjustment screw; perhaps it fell out or something. And what XXX said, assuming proper weight bar oil for the season fuel tank should empty before the oil & there is always a bit of leakage both from the bar and the oil port after use.

ETA: Pp61 of the manual does say full auto chain pump

Hey dog, the word is we now OR will soon need a chainsaw safety course to cut bike or ski trails or do any of that voly club stuff on what are essentially crown lands

yes I got the manual & page 42 has an asterix & a footnote saying the adjuster is a "Special Accessory". Those markings are on the bottom of the saw but there is no screw in the hole. I don't think its just fallen out, I took the cover off the clutch & can see the screw driver in the hole all the way on the top side behind the clutch. There are no threads or anything in the hole.

I did wonder that maybe the hole that allows the oil to get inside of the bar is also clogged up with dust/oil etc & so maybe the oil isn't getting in the right place, hence drips out when its being used.

I guess I need to run a tank of gas though it & keep an eye on the bar oil.

PS: seems the MS 260 is just the old model of the MS 261?

So I hear from the attempts that were made to put bike trails in the x/c ski trails this past season. Any work on a registered trail or rec area, even that by volunteers, will need to be accompanied by a worksafe number, and all the BS that registration entails. No idea what the chainsaw certs cost now, but heard it can cost upwards of 10G to get the faller's cert. Or just go into Alberta and take their certs for 1/10 the price. Almost sure, FWIW, that brush saws don't need need the same requirements.

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Originally Posted by BCMountainHound

So I hear from the attempts that were made to put bike trails in the x/c ski trails this past season. Any work on a registered trail or rec area, even that by volunteers, will need to be accompanied by a worksafe number, and all the BS that registration entails. No idea what the chainsaw certs cost now, but heard it can cost upwards of 10G to get the faller's cert. Or just go into Alberta and take their certs for 1/10 the price. Almost sure, FWIW, that brush saws don't need need the same requirements.

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this is just a round-about way towards user pays without actually charging trail fees. No trail fees but the trail societies & clubs are burdened with the admin cost of protecting the land owners (Crown in this case) from potential liability. Its a shame but parks etc feel the brunt of budget decreases when there are other pressures that garner more attention.

I think so and its a pretty good score the 261 is now 700$ I went pro cuz they are a cut above the rest

You are allowed to buck or limb but it sounds like trees are supposed to be taken down by a certified faller, the other guys in the course were all sponsored by the bc skiclub/xc ski clubs/mtnbike clubs and I'm not sure which one sponsored me but I didn't pay

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Originally Posted by jamesp

Edit to ask will any file guide work for sharpening? So long as the round file is the correct size for the chain?

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To answer this question, it depends on your knowledge and skill. I've sharpened chains reasonably well with no guide, but they can get fucked up that way. But even using a guide, depending on the guide being used some people can't get them to work well.

If you understand what you're doing (angles, rakers, etc), and keep the chain out of dirt and rocks, you can do a good job with this guide and this depth gauge. The file guide helps you judge the angle and control the depth of the round file, and the depth gauge and flat file help you keep the rakers at the proper height. You can google up lots of instructions on how to use them.

If you're not comfortable with that stuff and/or don't want to learn how to use a freehand guide, there are more complicated (and expensive) things like this and this that will line things up pretty well for you. You'll still need to tend to the rakers.

As far as the bar oil issue, check that the chain is getting oil by starting it and revving it with the bar tip pointed towards some paper or cardboard or something and look for a little oil flying off the chain onto the surface. If the chain isn't getting oil, that might explain the drip and you'll need to fix that.

You probably don't need a saw filing guide If you are so fly you can file freehand but then ... you wouldn't be asking the question

The guy I took the course from is a faller/teaches fire fighters/industry never uses a guide cuz he is the pro but when he had to show us how to use a guide cuz we suck he floundered a bit, he wasn't that good on using the guide that I linked to ... cuz he freehands