That sucks, especially given the coil part. From the reviews I remember reading about the Z1, there's only a few spring rates available for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
Printable View
That sucks, especially given the coil part. From the reviews I remember reading about the Z1, there's only a few spring rates available for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
Anybody have any experience with the Scott Genius 930? Carbon 150/150 bike that supposedly climbs well and I can get for a good price.
You 100% want to go XL on the AF.Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
Yeah, that's what I did. Waiting for it to be built now. Swapping the 60 mm stem to 40 mm. Too many reliable people saying how the Ripley cockpit runs small made me go that way.Quote:
Originally Posted by supermodel159
This happened to me, luckly my LBS (ranch Camp) swapped the Z1 for an Onyx. If the Z1 was air I probably would have tried it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
After about 20 rides on the bike the Onyx is nice but the lack of way ot control air volume with out using Oil is kind of silly in this day an age. DVO recommend adding oil to the air chamber and its feeling good now but I still think I like how RS forks feel. I swapped my 160mm pike from Nimble 9 on just to see how much was the fork and RS some how manage to have platform on top, with out being harsh, while still having really good midstroke support.
With that said the DVO felt way worse on the N9 so it went back on the Ripmo AF. I think I will end up with Lyric on my Ripmo eventually.
Overall my SLX (ish) build seems like a great bike and good value. Its pedals well and the rear suspension is both plush but supportive(I did end up adding bands to the chambers for midstroke support @200lb) The size M, fits me at 5'8 pretty well. Easily fitting a 210mm One up post. Weight is only noticed when picking the bike up on to my rack(my Nimble 9 weigh less than 26lb.....so). 35mm internal rims means you can run lower pressure with sidewall support if you want
ssomething to consider is...
Geo is not as progressive as some, I wish the STA was slightly steeper and HTA slightly slacker. The STA bothers me more though, still a huge improvement over my 2014 Trance SX. This though means the bike doesnt feel as sluggish as some other more progressive bikes on flatter trails.
The cons are
can only fit the tiniest of fidlock waterbottles.
heavy but not noticable when riding IMO
no pass though cables
brake rotors are undersized stock IMO.
Interested in this. Ibis says the max insertion is only 210 total, I’m 5-10 on a medium frame and I figured I could only get a 180 on there, but I know there’s some fudge room with the cable actuator at the bottom of the post. . Can you measure your max insertion on that OneUp 210 for me please?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushwacka
Also a BB-Seat rail measurement at your normal riding height would be awesome. Any issues with the tire buzzing the seat when dropped and at full compression?
. I’d love to get a 210 on there and could use some help from somebody that has one.
issue with tire buzzing my ass yes, seat no, but I run my saddle fully forward and tilted forward. Ill get measurements when I can.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
Sweet! Thanks! And yeah, nothing is quite wakes you up like an Aggressor to the butthole.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushwacka
Can throw my hat in the ring
revel rail 27.5
Attachment 425234
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
it make you feel alive, they dont call it the ASSGUY for nothing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
Bottom Bracket Center to seat rail 69.5cm measured to seat rail because saddles have different stack heights
Seat rail to top of seat collar 31.5cm
this gives me exactly 210mm of insertion with this setup. With that said when I had the first had the bike my seat post was set lower in the seat clamp so I am certain that there is some wiggle room plus you can always limit travel pretty easily on a one up post. I had to limit travel on my Canfield NImble 9 size M down to 200mm mostly because the port hole is IMO too high on the frame. It was very quick easy job to do.
Also I measured between the 2.5 ASSGUY and the rear of my seat and its about 7 inches, I run my saddle forward and tilted nose down but still I personally wont run into issues with tire hitting the saddle.
In my educated opinion assuming your saddle rails are at least 67.5mm from the BB center you are safe ordering the 210mm because you can limit travel down to 190mm. IMO more drop is always better no matter the skill level or the terrain.
This is awesome thanks so much. I’ve got my BB-Rail measurement at 70.0 so there shouldn’t be any issue! I could have sworn I looked up the specs and even the 210 shimmed to 190 was too long but I’ll give it a shot!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushwacka
Just got the XL Ripley AF SLX from N+1 Bikes. Got the Blackbird Send rims coming on all the new bikes. My supply chain lottery wins were Ibis Carbon bars and SLX 4 pot brakes
Only problem slightly is I also got upgraded to the 213mm Bike Yoke dropper from the specified 185mm. At full insertion I am maybe a cm or so too high. Is there a way to lower the travel or should I just manually wing it. 200 would be money .
Don’t we have a thread “Hacksaw Your Own Fucking Seat Tube” ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
"Hacksaw your own brand new fucking bike"
Ha, yeah, as tempting as this is, I'm gonna just use my ample ass to stop the post at the proper height.Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon3
Not to poopoo your idea but that is going to absolutely suck. Sell it before you use it as an unridden takeoff and then you'll lose a bit less money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
^^^ that.Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
Falcon3, where you located? I have a 185 bike yoke revive on my GG I got early this year and pretty sure I could fit a 213 if you want to swap.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
Thanks for the thought. I think I’m good, and I’ve currently just got the 160. Plus I’ve got a pile of Jenson gift cards what will get me a free OneUp 210.Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgiaSnow
Duffman swap posts with GeorgiaSnow. It's worth it!!!
Turns out I'm a dumbass. It is the 185 Bike yoke dropper, I finally measured it when I got the bike home. Which actually makes my life harder now. At full extension the top of the Volt saddle is at 760mm. I really need about a cm less. Ugh.
What's the crank arm length? A shorter crank forces a higher saddle height, so that could get you part way there. Maybe a lower profile saddle too?Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
What diameter is it? I have a 160 revive I could trade you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
Get a one up 210mm and it will fit with no issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by Duffman
31.6 I think. I'll check .Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
So update here , with my actual old fairly thick SPD shoes on , the seat height is fine. I had gotten so used to a lower seat from constantly riding both my old road bike and my old Cannondale MTB with a kid seat on the front , that I had gotten used to a very low seat height ,a necessity when there is zero room to straddle the top tube with a 2-4.yo in front . Still trying to figure out stem height / handlebar roll and such but otherwise all good
The Ripley AF is a sweet ride so far. It's def not light and some of it (35mm alloy Blackbird Send Ibis rims ) are definitely overkill for my riding, ,but it's a hell of a package for the $3225 price , especially with the unexpected 4 pot brake and carbon riser bar upgrades. I see Backcountry.and a few other online vendors still have stock. ,highly recommended for those who want a shorter travel trail bike .
Revel is doing 20% off Ranger, Rascal, & Rail 27.5s right now.
That puts the GX Eagle build of the Rascal at 4710 shipped, for what is seems like a pretty solid build. Just squeeze's in to the roughly 4k trail bike territory (no tax except in CO)
https://revelbikes.com/product/rascal/ with coupon code SEPT20
The Forbidden Druid SLX build (Z1 fork, Performance DPX2 is now on sale for $3919, which seems really good (the XT/Performance Elite build is $5020, which is also reasonable, but misses out on the thread's qualifiers).
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcusBrody
Oooh, those seem tempting. Although I kinda want to hold out to see if Ibis does start dumping carbon Ripmo stock--maybe not the too good to be true 40%, but something solid.
Too bad the GX/XT builds don't go the full 30% off like SLX
XL only, other sizes are +$500Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcusBrody
XT build on the way.
Privateer / Hunt just sent me an email with a sale announcement: they're including a set of carbon Hunt wheels with any bike purchase, in addition to the wheels that come with the bike.
Not necessarily a "$4K trail bike", but there are some good looking builds in the $4K range. IDK how much I'd want to pedal one uphill though.
Get the Cascade link for that baby.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
Sounds promising.Quote:
Originally Posted by smmokan
Depending on what you ride, I'd also consider a -1* Works headset.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackattack
Does anyone have any thoughts on the Rascal vs the Druid? Would be replacing a ripmo af as a single do it all trail bike for CA. Have't yet decided if either is a good idea, but both were on my shortlist even before the sales...
Test rode a druid today in GX mullet spec (and just an around the block/through the grass at the playground test ride).
Was a small on me but did feel like it could it could capture that feeling of do it all of a similar nature to the Ripmo (but with a bit less travel front/back).
Doesn't come out super lightweight though. Shop owner who owns one cautioned a little against it for lots of pedaling up as some combination of the weight + chain drag from the idlers + geometry made it noticeable on long rides (but great for stuff like shuttled rides and he really does like the bike and the high pivot suspension). That kind of made me nervous about it as I'm looking for an almost do-it-all bike for the local terrain (basically do everything except when I might reach for my hardtail for fun).
I'm not trying to set speed records, but I do want to climb at a decent pace and not feel like I'm wasting energy.
The Druid is super interesting to me, but I've managed to avoid impulse buying one. Its amount of travel coupled with the high pivot would let it erase bumps but still be poppy for my local trails. If they ever update the geometry a tad, my willpower will cease. IDGAF about the weight (my Megatrail is 35#) but I'm not OK with a 75* ST and 66 HT. I guess if I ever saw a used medium frame locally I'd be tempted too (with Cascade + Ziggy links, a coil, & angleset).
I haven't ridden the druid, but I own a high pivot bike (norco range). While the range is obviously in a different category, I'd generally agree with the shop owner's take - I don't think I'd want a high pivot as my do it all, pedal all over the place bike. More drag, more weight, and the drivetrain is much pickier about maintenance and cleanliness. I'm also a little less concerned about my shorter travel bike absolutely destroying descents, so the negatives of the idler / high pivot system kind of outweigh the benefit in that category, imo.Quote:
Originally Posted by singlesline
Does the idler/chain guide setup really introduce that much drag? Like more than cuschcore inserts and dh-casing maxxxgrippp tires that the bros are all running these days?
Seems anecdotal to me, but it’s been a long time since I had a bike with a chain guide.
At least on mine, the guide doesn't touch the chain, so no drag there. The idler has a little bit of drag, and it's more noticeable (meaning, it gets noisier) in higher torque situations. It's barely noticeable spinning up a mellow road climb. It's more noticeable on steep punchy climbs. It also gets worse if the chain's dirty or in need of lube.
It's more noticeable than adding an insert, but less noticeable than putting a maxxgrip in the rear.