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Really? I see it at several vendors.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I felt a little indulgent when I bought one last year. I found it for about $90 though. That indulgent feeling didn’t last. It’s a handy tool to have around. I pack it with on any trip longer than a weekend.
Maybe it also fills a niche as a floor pump for super high pressure track tires? Even if it is technically within their specified range, a lot of road pumps aren't going to be happy pushing 190PSI into a 19c track tire with regularity.Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
Sold out at wholesale suppliers…but I would do it for $90.Quote:
Originally Posted by evasive_MT
I have a Lenyze floor pump that goes to 220 and is not digital (and didn't Gunder say digital ones are rarely accurate? Ha.) and want to sell. I ordered a new chuck for it that I think comes Wednesday, then I can ship and sell for cheeeep. Make me an offer.
I’ve had one on item watch for 8+ months….Quote:
Originally Posted by rideit
I didnt say they are not accurate... What I did say, or was trying to say, is the accuracy tend to very depending on the battery voltage, as they are calibrated to be pretty accurate when the batteries are new, once the batteries start to loose their charge, the accuracy goes right out the window.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
I actually converted my Lenyze dirt drive floor pump to a digital one, when the built in analog gauge quick working.... so far the digital one is ok, but this is a reminder I need to change the batteries on it!
FWIW, I dont like the idea of of using an air compressor to fill shocks. The pressure isn't an issue, but filling it too fast, can burp / displace the seals and cause issues. The reason most companies advertise they have nitrogen filled shocks, isn't because nitrogen is better (nitrogen makes up 78% of air) it is because they use large tanks of it with a regulator to fill them, as its easier / quicker than hand pumping and safer then using a compressor, as you can regulate the flow.
Ah, gotcha. Good to know. My Lenyze (and my Joe Blow every day floor pump) is reading 5psi above the milton hand gauge I bought - so I went to go-Ride (respected local shop) to see if it matched the shop gauge. The shop gauge was that POS Topeak D2 that was 7-8 psi off that i bought recently and returned to buy the Milton, ugh. The Milton matched the Go-Ride Topeak D2 though. I don't know what to believe, but I guess if the Go-Ride Topeak was way off the workers would know. Did there gauge have a new battery though? What a dumb journey, ha.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
Why not just use compressed air then?Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
Nitrogen has a slightly higher specific heat (heats up slower).
The removal of oxygen will also reduce the rate of any oxidation that occurs in a system.
I think you have a little less maintenance with N2 as it tends to not migrate quite as quickly (you won't lose pressure as quickly over time).
I have no idea if I'd ever be able to tell the difference.
Screwdriver report. Received the Wihas, tested them out, and love them. Best screwdrivers I've ever used, and I like the handles better than some others (like Wera). So I'm all in. Just ordered a set of 12 slotted and phillips. If I still like those then I'll add precisions, the torx, then nut drivers over time. Still not sure I need nut drivers, though I do use the random sized channellock nut drivers I already have now and then...
Anyway, big thumbs up for the Wiha drivers, and it also seems that they are among the more competitively priced of the high end brands. Slotted 3.0, 4.0, 5.5, 6.5, 8.0, 10.0, phillips 0, 1, 2, 3, and shorty slotted 6.5 and phillips 2 for $78 shipped is pretty damn inexpensive.
Pozidrive 3 was well priced too (needed for binding adjustments)
I've always understood this to be the main reason, along with canned nitrogen being very dry. You could use very dry air, but I'd bet the cost ends up being about the same as nitrogen, and you don't get the added benefits of reducing oxidation and better thermal properties.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
High pressure (like 2000-3000psi) nitrogen bottles are easy to find and cheap at welding/industrial gas supply stores.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
I was going to add the moisture content, etc.... which eliminates the bit of condensation you'll get in enclosed systems with heating and cooling, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
I suspect my topeak is slightly off (but who knows, the only things I have compared it to directly could be off too), but what I really care about is consistency.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
It is the only gauge I really use (my lezyne floor pump gauge that goes to like 200 is impossible to read with accuracy at tubeless MTB pressures), and its not that important that when it says 22psi, it is exactly 22psi. Far more important is that when it says 22psi, that's when I like how my tire feels.
I'd really prefer it to actually be accurate, but I like that it is small, inexpensive, and not super sensitive to handling.
That said...I guess I should make sure my batteries are fresh!
I bought a 5 piece Wiha screwdriver set for work, because it's actually needed on very expensive screws that are 'order online only' when we have to replace them. They are awesome, great handles and a great fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
All true, but I just would like to know if I run my tires on 30 or 25 psi. I've been telling friends wayyyy faster than me that I roll some certain tires at 25psi - now I'm thinking it was 20psi when that happened and no, I'm not a bad-ass cornerer at all. I've been running higher pressure now to see what 30-32psi should be - now my suspension feels like shit when going over rocks slowly, ha. it's just a mind fuck for me, that's all.Quote:
Originally Posted by singlesline
At the end of the day, all that really matters is whatever gauge you choose to use, reliably provides consistent measurements. Doesn't really matter if its a bit high or a bit low, as long as its always off by the same amount.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
The main difference is most air compressor system are set up to maintain a very high tank pressure, and your filling attachment does not have a regulator built into maintain the flow. All it does is tell you what pressure you filled it to. An industrial tank setup with a gas regulator on it, allows you to control your flow rate.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
Secondly, the air volume in bike suspension systems ( or any for that matter) is so low, you wold be hard press to calculate any difference. Second, all of the metal components have a coating on them to reduce friction and prevent oxidation. Only thing that doesn't, is the seals, but if you are doing a proper rebuild they should be fully coated in grease / oil.
Nice. Glad you like them!Quote:
Originally Posted by EWG
As I stated above, you are dealing with such a small volume, you are not going to be able to see any difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by toast2266
Exactly. You just need a good regulator.Quote:
Originally Posted by adrenalated
Once again, the volume is so low, there is not going to be any difference. In all of the suspension components I have rebuilt over the years, I have not once, seen any issue with oxidation or moisture in any of them. It simply isn't a problem. What is a problem is dirt contamination when the seals start to break down due to friction. It's widely accepted that the seals are a wear item, yet 99% of people go way beyond the suggested service intervals and then wonder why there suspension feels like shit.Quote:
Originally Posted by grskier
The Garage Journal Forums. Are probably the best place to do any research before buying any tool, as their is almost always a ton of info, and user reviews on there.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
I don't think I have the time to sort through those threads and see who is knowledgable or who is a newb like me - maybe it's the next level for my 'tool journey' though - after I watch all those "Which is best" videos, ha. Those things are sweet so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
To there own, but I find I can use the search function a their a hell of a lot faster than searching you tube and then watching someone that may or may not know what there yakking about and that may or may not be getting paid good $$$ for their “ reviews”.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
Then again I may just know too much about how “ content marketing “ works these days for my own good.
On another note a few new tools arrived today.
Attachment 422033
Rear cog tool and a 15 mm wrench from RunWell in Japan. I picked these up specifically for working on my pump track bike and my sons bikes.
The 15mm is very very nice and appears to be at least of the same quality as my Snapon wrenches
Attachment 422034
The working end is an exact match to the Snapon.
Attachment 422035
Handle is super comfortable too!
We will see how they hold up to use and how long the gold platting lasts. It at least appears to be as good as the platting on my Nepros ratchets.
but I'm talking about a specific individual on YT that I linked to, who tests everything like an engineer, not a marketer. And I know how content marketing works as much as you do most likely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
Anyways, back to the tool porn which is more fun and thanks for all the advice here.
Alright Gunder here is one for you. I've got a set of Raceface cranks that require a 16mm socket to pull them. I felt like my chamfered socket was very insecure and going to strip the aluminum on my cranks so I used my Dremel and cut it back beyond the chamfer. Whaddya got that's better?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ea0e31947e.jpg
Sometimes you gotta modify a tool and nothing is wrong with that!Quote:
Originally Posted by John_B
16mm hex? I think the largest I’ve ever used on a bike is 14mm and that’s for my EEwing cranks.
Attachment 422053
Attachment 422054
Snapon and PBSwiss. The Snapon ones have less chamfering then the PBSwiss ones and you can easily press new hex inserts in/ out so easy to modify if you need to, but I haven’t ran into that issue with them. I do like the PBSWISS ones better than Snapon tho as they fit tighter tolerances and are made of better steel that seems to wear better.
I'm trying hard to resist ordering a set of Wiha torx drivers this afternoon. Had told myself I would wait a few months. But I have a bunch of bike work to do this weekend and they would be nice. Of course, they wouldn't show up till Tuesday, so it doesn't really matter for this weekend, but don't confuse me with the facts.
Ok, going to lunch. It'll be interesting to see if I resist.
They sell Wiha at lowes now, see if they are there after lunch? They probably don't have the handled version thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by EWG
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Wiha-Wiha-3...het/5000289431
Made it till this morning, then got frustrated with my current torx drivers and ordered the set. Shocking.Quote:
Originally Posted by muted reborn
“Engineered by Wiha in Germany and manufactured by Wiha globally”. Is that typical of Wiha tools or something to watch for as they move into DIY stores like Lowes?
Their website says that 90% of their tools are still made in Germany. I think their bits, pliers and cutters are made in Vietnam. Word is the quality of the Vietnam stuff is still excellent, though I don't own any of it. I believe their screwdrivers are still made in Germany.Quote:
Originally Posted by evasive_MT
Speaking of which, the Wihas arrived. So far, so good.
Attachment 422308
even your I haven't used a hex that large is a brag on some gear... lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
EEwing cranks. I thought only Matt Jones put those on his dream builds.
Is there any tool / attachment that exists for truing rotors that doesn't involve both a $300 wheel truing stand plus another $50 for an attachment?
I've searched around a bit and only finding truing stand attachments. It seems to me like there should be something where you drop your wheel out, drop something in through the hub, and sweep an arm around with a feeler gauge to the rotor.
Wonder if this would work for on-bike truing:Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
https://www.amazon.com/Unior-Pocket-.../dp/B00IWRS0NW
Otherwise this used to exist:
https://www.utahmountainbiking.com/f...krotortrue.htm
If you could find one, you might be able to make it work with a thru-axle to QR adapter.
at its simplest leave the wheel in the bike and attach a zip tie to the frame for your reference, bend the rotor with some thing in the holes
I sold my park stand to LHutz so I supose i could just borrow it back
I might suck it up and get one of these: https://www.feedbacksports.com/produ...ing-stand-2-0/
$150 but it's specifically got a slot on the feeler for checking rotors, and can check rims too. I don't have the free time to build wheels, but I do occasionally case things hard enough to need them re-trued.
For less money you can get a NOGA dial indicator holder and a used Starrett or Mitituyo indicator on Ebay / cragslist and have far greater accuracy and more flexibility.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andeh
Attachment 422634
Noga makes clamps in all sizes and forms, but a small one with a magnetic base is all you need for this. If you get one with a clamp on both ends, you can clamp it to the bike and do it all without taking the wheel off.
Attachment 422635
A dial indictor would be my preference, but a test indicator will also work.
Now that being said, while I have the tools for checking rotors, I dont see the point. They are not that expensive, and even with all of the tools at your disposal, you are never going to get a bent one as straight as factory, so in my mind its not worth the frustration, so best to just replace. It's also something that I honestly dont remember the last time I bent one and I am always running 203 rotors front and rear even on the trail bike.
https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buy...3KpbdQk1WDAsqY
Torque wrench porn
I wholeheartedly disagree. I've had brand new rotors in definite need of truing (mostly Avid - current Shimano's etc. seem much better, haven't had that in a while). I run Ice Tech's (which would seem to be more rigid) and they go out of true all the time (need truing multiple times a season). Same is true for the wife's SRAM rotors, and the kid's non-ice-tech shimanos. These are all mtb's, ridden hard. Are you talking about roadie rotors? Are you mtb-ing only on paved bike path? Crazy talk, vs my experience.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunder
EDIT: guess not roadie rotors - 203mm would kinda be overkill, LOL
I havent really needed to true a rotor since i quit riding skinnys
https://www.gravelcyclist.com/videos...iPv0fL0wuGS2ac
here ^^ is a tool i have never seen or heard of, a digital chain checker !
Occam’s razor tells me the standard, Park (or similar), no-moving-parts-or-batteries chain checker tool is the way to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by XXX-er
But that would be antithetical to this thread I suppose.
I just use a go-no-go park 3.2
there is also the CC-2 which measures the chain mechanicaly
but i posted that link purely for the porn value eh
Added dry ice to my toolbox.
Freed a stuck seatpost in a steel frame completely non-destructively by strapping a couple of chunks around the seat tube.
I wonder why more people don't try this method before breaking out the torch or resorting to cutting/damaging the post. Worked like a charm after previous attempts failed.
Of course the dry ice is no longer in my toolbox. Got to have fun playing with the fog-machine effect though.
I was at Harbor Freight getting harbor freight things (magnetic bowl for $1.50? Why not...) and noticed this 10" Knipex Cobra Pliers knock off, which I own a smaller Knipex version and really like. This knock-off was only $20 and it's replacing a husky wrench that has no button, no lock setting, has no room for fingers in certain positions, and is way heavier. Worth it IMO.
Supposedly you can find Knipex Pliers wrench (I own two Knipex ones thanks to this thread) knockoffs under the Icon brand at Harbor Freight and they are getting really good reviews - apparently when restocked they sell out quickly. There were none in my store.
I read that some Knipex patents ran out recently so the market is gonna be flooded with these things. For tools I don't use every day, these knockoffs are pretty good, surprisingly so IMO. No long term data yet though.
Attachment 423156