+1. LTX AT2 if off road performance and looks are important.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser
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+1. LTX AT2 if off road performance and looks are important.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser
Got a new to me wrangler recently that will likely need tires in the next several months. It's mostly an around town/playing in the mountains toy so I want a nice aggressive tread pattern but I'm not willing to drop duratrack money on it.
Anyone have recs for an off brand mt tire that comes in 285.70.17? Something like the Milestar Patagonia mt?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper
Thanks fellas. Will look into those.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser
Attachment 245105
Doh!
Yokohoma Geolandar G015 is pretty good compromise if you don't need something with the off-road chops of the K02 (or similar). It carries the 3PMSF rating, unlike the LTX line. We've put about 23k on ours in all conditions -- no major complaints and it's especially good on wet roads. Granted this is on a Subaru Outback not a pickup, but the larger tire sizes are LT with deeper tread and larger shoulder blocks. Reviews on larger trucks also seem excellent ... again assuming you don't need something with more off-road chops.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermoon
My experience is that cars tires, LTs and E rated 10 plys have nothing to do with each other. The builds are different and vehicles requirements are different.
Cruiser, check Hercules
Okay, feel free to disregard. It seems like a few of these tires have the P-metric or LT-metric depending on the size, but maybe they’re totally different tires. I’ll keep my nose out of the truck thread until I get a truck.
New tires every two years? Ouch. Wtf, are you driving it on a treadmill?
Work trucks, 3/4ton or larger, putting about 15-20k km per year and we swap summers with winters. 2 years for winters and 3 years for summers, if the driver has a light foot. More than half the use is off pavement. Trying RockProof Nokians for summer; studded 10ply winter hakks for the past few years. No silver bullet yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcski
2 winters 3 summers, 45k ish miles. Once they get to 4/32 I take them off. To much of a road hazard at that depth.Quote:
Originally Posted by mcski
datapoint on wear/life:
cooper A/TW: 8-9/32 remaining tread life after 20k total. 5 tires rotated every 5-7k miles. started at 14/32. "standard" load rating (2756lbs/tire). on 100-series stock land cruiser. majority of miles are loaded (maybe 6300lbs max) for camping.
currently, considering what to do with the earlier-pictured blown sidewall. i liked having a set of 5. does shaving down a new tire to match the others actually work?
In that situation, I'd just buy a used tire of the same size and load rating, for the spare, and skip the need for matching the exact brand and model. Do you have any sketchy tire shops in your area? Go there.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Shaving down a tire can be done, but you'll pay the cost of a brand new tire, and then the shaving cost, all just to get yourself a matching newly worn down tire.
thanks! good and useful suggestion!Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
I don't know how to cleanquuy They're are courier kids are you
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Also a good and useful suggestion!Quote:
Originally Posted by rod9301
(depending on how high you are currently)
I’m not high enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by El Chupacabra
That’s an old school technique! Think it’ll work in this situation?Quote:
Originally Posted by rod9301
Rod has my favorite autofilled posts.
But i really appreciated the suggestion. I have a tire guy that can likely get me the used tire in right spec.
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Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk had firestone destination at tires on it stock. Got 55k on them, did great in everything from Colorado and Chicago could throw at it. Nothing wild but have a nice off-road look too. When the coopers on our f150 are dead I’ll replace them with the Firestones
This was the ultimate autofill. I didn't even look at the post, much less answered it.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodywhomper
Maybe during my mountain bike ride on fast Eddie's. Phone in my pocket, mind of its own.[emoji24]
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Just ordered a set of the Falken's. Discount Tire price matched Walmart's price, so about $147/tire.
And the Falkens seem to be on national backorder, so not sure what to do now, probably the Michelins? Hope for a rebate?
I gave into the Les Schwab guy pushing the "new" snowflake rated Open Range AT tire over the Toyo AT II this weekend. I'll report back once I get it in some snow and dirt. Kind of annoyed I let him talk me out of the better looking Toyo but know the snow rated tire will ultimately be better for our use the next couple of winters.
That being said, anyone looking for a good deal on my old 20" 6 lug wheels for 2009-2014 F-150? Includes some Nokian Rotiva AT at 60% tread (according to the tread depth indicator). Probably fine for this coming winter and also snowflake rated. Seattle area.
Snowflake rating=softer compound. Stickier when cold, wears faster when it’s warm. Pick your poison.
FYI, six-lug wheels are the same centerbore and bolt pattern on current-generation truck as well (i.e. any six-lug F-150 uses the same lug/centerbore), so those wheels would be fine up through a 2019 F-150. The thread pitch on the lugs / lug nuts changed with the 13th-generation trucks in 2015, but the spacing and centerbore are the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco
It seems like there are quite a few snowflake-rated options similar to the Falkens that you might consider. The Cooper ATW, Dynapro ATM, and Pirelli Scorpion All-Terrain Plus all seem similar without being E-rated like the BFG K02.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
Perhaps you should buy the BFGs and get on with your life.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
I don't think that's necessarily accurate - IIRC the 3PMSF rating had to do with the tire ability in snow, not based on tread compound. However, all winter tires will have the 3PMSF mark and have soft compounds.Quote:
Originally Posted by Conundrum
The rating isn't based on the compound, you are correct. But, AT tires with the snowflake don't tend to last as long as those without in my experience. I think it's that the manufacturer uses softer material to perform better in the cold.
Me, I have Cooper STT Pros siped on my LC and Cooper AT3s on my pickup and van. I run the tires all year and have no issues on snow and ice.
I'm sure there are a lot of good tires out there now but I've been using Coopers for the last 10 years or so and why change something that works well for the sake of changing.
Good to know, thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by anotherVTskibum
Bring on the snow!
Oh I don't know. Progress maybe? Innovation? No reason, reallyQuote:
Originally Posted by Conundrum
Looking for reccs. This is my first time buying tires for my own car.
2015 RAV4 AWD LE: 225/65 R17, 102H
About to hit 35k on the original tires. Front currently 4/32, rear 3/32. Looking to buy a set of [edit] all-weather. Most of my driving is on city streets. Occasional highway driving, usually to get to the mountains on the weekends (which includes rough forest service roads to trailheads in the spring/summer/fall). Not looking to buy separate winter and summer sets. Local to Portland.
Also, do you recommend buying local at a place like Les Schwab or buying online at Tirerack?
Thanks.
A RAV 4 isn't a truck. I like the Geolandar G015, which comes in a 225/65R17 but YMMV. I think an all-weather tire makes sense if you want decent snow performance. Here's a list of them (though a few options are missing):
Quote:
Originally Posted by klauss
I agree. Just trying keeping tire chat in a tire thread. Thanks for the list and rec.Quote:
Originally Posted by auvgeek
Wasn't being snarky -- I was mainly justifying my qualifications to respond in the truck thread because I don't own a truck either. :)
That is why I buy the latest version of a model especially when my favorite is discontinued such as the STT is no longer so I went with an STT Pro this go around. And thank you for your useless comment.Quote:
Originally Posted by margotron
So, now considering the Dynapro ATM RF10 (lot of fucking letters), based on other stuff in this thread.
Can someone explain the difference between this https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tir...m-rf10/p/19481 and this https://www.discounttire.com/buy-tir...-rf10/p/10824? Other than $34? Seems like one has a "P" in front of it, which I know to mean it's a P-metric tire (not that I understand what that is), and I guess the other isn't, but is that a real difference that explains the price difference?
My current tire size doesn't have the P, FWIW. And I'd love a tire for $130.
They're both standard load tires (the "SL" designation), which means they are both P-rated tires (P for passenger). No idea why one does not have the P designation. AFAIK if the tire has a SL or XL designation, it has to be a P-rated tire; I don't think that mark is used on any LT ("Light Truck") tire, which, instead, would most commonly have a C, D, or E rating.Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret....jsp?techid=55
The "OWL" means outlined white letters on one side -- if you don't like that look, put the letters facing inwards -- it is a symmetrical tread design, so it doesn't matter.
The $130 one has a 112T rating; the $170 one has a 110T rating. That is the load index rating. The higher the number, the higher the carrying capacity:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...180905211630:s
tl;dr -- buy the $130 one and be happy.
According to Discount Tire, the $164 version is a discontinued model that they leave on their website (not sure why it can't just say "discontinued" and not "order now, available in 3-5 days". In any case, the $130 tire is the one that is available. Given that the Dynapro ATM gets some good reviews in this thread, and given that it is pretty dirt cheap for a tire of that size (265/65/17), AND has the snowflake symbol, I went for it. Ordered and will be on the truck in the next few days.
Out the door for about $700, so can't complain (and have a $50 rebate coming). Nice to have some new shoes on.
Price went up to $142 but I got the $130 price.