Pumping this morning. Surfed 6-7:30. High tide made it a bit funky but bombs were had. Going to build during the day hopefully. I'm going to work and will try and get some photos from La Jolla Cove if it's breaking.
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Pumping this morning. Surfed 6-7:30. High tide made it a bit funky but bombs were had. Going to build during the day hopefully. I'm going to work and will try and get some photos from La Jolla Cove if it's breaking.
Was more than this out of shape jong wanted to deal with, so the doggy and I took the 2 hour walk along the coast to check it out. There were some bombs out there. If it calms down a bit, I will give it a go Saturday.
Couple of photos from today around La Jolla. First is looking south from Bird Rock towards PB Point at high tide this morning. Second is from the Cove at lunch. It's breaking but not nearly as big was Big Wednesday 2007. Last one is from my friend's house at the Cliffs this afternoon. Looks stupid big.
I'm officially wiped out. Good size waves with lots of paddling just to stay in the zone.
2 hour session last night of well overhead waves, lots of paddling. Really fun sets with some good push.
3+ hour sesh today and my arms are noodles. I could barely paddle for a wave at the end.
From the Union Tribune yesterday, that would be a lot of water to duck dive on the way out. My arms are toast
http://media.utsandiego.com/img/phot...1_t900x507.jpg
Glad you boys down south got a little of the juice. OB was maxed last weekend. Now, it's come down to playful size, and I'm pretty sure the rest of the coast is flat. Good time to rest the arms.
Surfed 36th street in Newport yesterday(Saturday). It was super fun, head high, glassy, a bit peaky. I surfed from 3 to 5:20, got out when it got too dark. When I first paddled out, the low tide was making it a bit walled. There were some zippy corners, but definitely pick and choose. It was still fun, as there were not too many people. From 28-36 was better, but absolutely packed. As the tide filled back in, things go really good. The corners that were not makeable became makeable, and the makeable corners became zippy, down the line walls. It ended up being a great session, as there were not too many people for how many waves were coming through.
Today should still be pretty good, although things are dropping.
This has been an insane run of surf. Perfect wind conditions, lots of swell. It's times like these that I love California.
Finally got back to CA and out in the water today. Still a little juice out there at the right reefs. Small, head high plus, and super fun. Until the tide went negative. Then it got a bit weird.
Surfing under a full moon is still one of the coolest things I've experienced
Mid day session today. No wind, shoulder+ sets, low tide beach break with left and right nugs doubling up. I went for the lip smack and this perfect inside pit opened up underneath me as I was coming back down. I shoulda been in that one, woulda been a clean exit
And this town has some good spots for moon lit sessions. Years ago, I got Pleasure Point well overhead a number of times. You could see the sets lining up at Sewers. Perfect.
Woke up this morning and was reminded of some wipeouts. My left arm is a bit sore, and it looks like I took a pretty good fin hit. Did not break the skin, but there is a very sore muscle under a six inch long, 1-2mm wide red line. Ouch. Picked that one trying to drop into a right barrel. Slide in over the ledge, but my fins slipped on the face, lost contact, and then I got drilled by the lip. Early in the set. By the time I broke through, I was all the way down the line and right up on the reef.
Earlier, I was surfing a left that has a pinch at the corner. When things are working, you can take off deep, and come around the bottom on the pinch. This way you get a barreling section, that closes out, but after a long bottom turn, you get a wrapping, semi-hollow, super carvey section. Thing is, you need to get to the bottom of the wave, and way out in front to not get munched by the ledge. This wave will be breaking in waist minus deep water when a touch overhead. I thought I was way out in front, in the middle of my bottom turn and home free. So I really dug into that turn. And then it ledged underneath me. Hard. I got munched.
It was nice to be out on a day that still had that kind of fun involved, after missing the past two swells.
This is exactly why 90% of the barrels I make are frontside. If I'm driving down the line backside and back door the section then I'm usually good but dropping under the lip backside is rare for me because of fin slippage, usually only on surf trips will I make some of thoseQuote:
Slide in over the ledge, but my fins slipped on the face, lost contact, and then I got drilled by the lip.
Side note, a good majority of the reefs that barrel at the takeoff in SD seem to be lefts, so it seems my only chance to practice is on surf trips.
you guys are killing me over here. winter's here with no incoming swell for 2 weeks now. may be waves thurs fri, but winds way too strong to enjoy it at all, then back to flat for awhile.
heading to tamarindo with the gf to stay with friends in 2 weeks, so that should be nice.
keep it coming
rog
Here are some shitty shots I got during the last 5 days of swell around OC, not nearly as big and burly as SD but some fun drops, pits & beatings. Check it...
Huntington Cliffs
http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/7113/img4066r.jpg
http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/8933/img4055w.jpg
North side HB pier
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/8039/img4203qu.jpg
Trail 3
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/2140/img4318h.jpg
Lowers
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/7069/img44192.jpg
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/3709/img44182.jpg
nice shots. like the northside hb shot. is that the big part of the swell, or the smaller days? just curious, as it seems to taper even more than i'd expect.
Sorry for not dating the pics but being a gaper jong I didn’t think anyone would care, HA-ha. The shots in Huntington were on Wednesday 1/4, of the swell before the big one on the weekend. It was overhead at The Huntington Cliffs (dog beach) and only about head high at the pier.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ottime
The shot of trail 3 is Thursday night 1/5. I was waiting for the swell but it never really filled in that night (at that particular spot) so I just took the longboard out and caught like 25 waist high dribblers.
The Lowers shit show shot is from Friday 1/6 in the afternoon during the peak of everything, gapers, jongs, idiots, and of course me.
Nice shots Pwhore, that pretty much sums up the lack of wind the past few weeks. It's been a good run of surf with another one filling in today
San Clemente Pier 9/1/11, that was an interesting day.
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/4179/img2039bs.jpg
http://img827.imageshack.us/img827/4259/img2043w.jpg
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/6120/img2037y.jpg
Nice shots. These past swells were the first good ones since Labor Day.
Surfed again this morning and was pleasantly surprised at the swell. Head high sets and no one out early on a Tuesday. Went to a beach break and the closeouts were a bit less than normal so some fun shoulders to pick off. At it again tomorrow morning. Reefs should be good early with the big high tide not hitting until 9:30-10.
Pwhore,
Great pier shots. I was down at Cottons/Barbedwires for that swell. It really was big. Your shots really put it in perspective just how big that swell was.
Interesting. It has been pretty good up here since Thanksgiving. I always wonder how much Pt Conception blocks things from SoCal.Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdRock
Damn on the San C. pier. I have only been there once to check the surf. It was maybe knee high, and we ended up surfing some where else that was chest high that day. Now I am getting kind of bummed I was out of state during this thing. The big board would definitely been used.
Things were decent last night at the miles. Wished I had more time, as winds were light, and I am sure more north would have been the best call. Still, it is fun when it is overhead, even if it is warbled and not delivering a proper pounding.
Lots (plus channel island blockage in addition to Point Conception), especially with a 300+ degree swell. Once you get down around Imperial Beach and into Baja the swell window opens up a lot, 300+ degree swells can be HH-OH in Baja and ankle to waist in central SD and completely Flat in southern OC.Quote:
I always wonder how much Pt Conception blocks things from SoCal.
SW in Sept.
+1 on LongDucs comments regarding Thurs/Friday of the big September swell = Outside Mackers at cottons. Wish I had my 8'6" instead of my 6'8" that Thursday.
WNW a week ago
San Diego Reefs were pretty good a week ago:biggrin:. Middles at Trestles was good, but as packed as I have ever seen it with pros and longboard heros galore.
28@15 on the SE Papa Bouy. Gonna git big and stormy tomorrow.
Around noon there was some size yesterday. 3rd reef at Middles broke. You know, way the fuck out in the Bay. A crumbling mountain, but hudge. Dropped a lot by the time I took at look around 2:30, so I opted for NB when I had my end of day window. Head high plus. But looooooong faaaaast and hooollow. Even with the crowd of 25+ bro brah talking, horse blinder wearing, paddling for everything douch-bag-ery that is town, it was plenty of fun.
I'll get some picks from Middles up soonish. In the meantime, got a post up from a small day between swells.
This day it was flat.
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...27686636&stc=1
Gotta love the offshores today!!!
Got a late afternoon session at 30-32nd street in Newport. About shoulder high, but offshore winds made the waist and chest high waves REALLY fun. Peaks all over the place. Huntington was probably bigger, but peaky waist-shoulder high Newps with strong offshores is really fun. The waist and chest high peaks spread the crowd, which was considerable. The shoulder and head high sets were pretty hollow. I got guillotined when I tried to pull-in, but better surfers than me were coming out of barrels. Got in the water around 430, and surfed until dark, about 545. The last half hour was great, as people left the water.
Tomorrow morning leave at 4am for Mammoth. California is hard to beat.
Was today this good everywhere else? I have to believe a bigger swell window and offshore winds would have made things sick all over the place.
Been busy, surfing, skiing, shooting. Have a few processed, but will get more for later. Would have loved to been able to focus on shooting both these days, but then of course, if I had that much freedom, I would have been surfing instead.
Mid sized Middle Peak right. Or left.
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...27937202&stc=1
And the next day at the Sidewalk.
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/a...27937204&stc=1
Can't see them either
Surfed Haleiwa today, small and kinda fun. 6-8ft on avg with 10ft set every so often. It wasn't even part of a set but 1 solo wave rolled in at a solid 12ft++, have a feeling it might have been a forerunner of that new swell. Supposed to be 20-25ft tomorrow with occasional +'s. Probably a family day for me tomorrow
Saturday was the tits at OB. Double header. Morning was decent and bigger, but sunset session delivered. Pulled in too deep into a right, dropped a knee and grabbed the rail, had the breath knocked out of me. The look on my face must've been priceless. "Didn't see that coming!!" Looked small, but was one of the best sessions I've had here. Multiple barrels. Friday was just me and the neighbor on guns, sitting on the outside. Nobody out. + Waves coming through and steamrolling me. Got booted from Century at 0430 with co-workers.
This week is going to get very interesting. Piggity, keep it safe over there. Jesus. 20-25++?? Can't wait till that hits here. I think they may call Mav's for next weekend.
Man I hate this new upload system. I could see them fine on my computer????? Anyway, made some changes. Can you see them now? Drunk or sober?
Looks like we have some fun swell filling in right now. Bigger stuff coming later. This week does sound interesting. While I do enjoy skiing, I would prefer to stay in town this weekend instead of bringing the family up to the ice show.
Not drunk yet and they are showing up now. Dig the shot of middle peak.
BS, definitely playing it safe with a swell like this, most places will be washing through except Outer reefs, Waimea and maybe sunset. I'll leave it for the big boys, I know my limits. Good news is this swell is supposed to linger all week, so should be really good 2nd half of the week
Last minute decision to drive up to north shore today, got up there about 2 pm. Checked Haleiwa And wind had just switched onshore, Solid DOH+ but funky with the wind.
Decided to pass with the funk from the wind, so we drove over to Pipe for the Volcom contest. Clean conditions and absolutely disgusting waves rolling through. Definitely the biggest Pipe I've seen in person. Anyone know the easiest way to post photos on here directly from their phone?
Jealous you got to watch Pipe yesterday. I had the feed on at work all day. Crazy waves rolling through with some spectacular wipe outs.
No help on the phone - photo posting. Aloha!
Piggity, glad to hear you got out the other day. Haleiwa's a really tricky wave to surf well. I've been thoroughly humbled there on relatively small, 4-6 ft. days.
Gonna make the finals today? Where are you staying? Presumably you've been out that way before, but if you're in need of any food recs, things to do, etc, hit me up.
Cool Bradda, appreciate it. We're staying with the Sis-in-law. Any suggestions on other places to surf solo and not get in over my head? With my wife and kids so Haleiwa seems to be the easiest foe them to chill on the beach and me surf, especially since anything toward pipe is a zoo with the contest
Surfline is eporting 8-10 right now and next swell fills in tomorrow afternooN, I fuggin love this place!!
:biggrin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Piggity
You know, if you've been having fun at Haleiwa, and the crowds are minimal, I'd keep ripping there. Linking the sections with style is gratifying, and it'll be a while before you're bored, if ever. Other spots that might be a bit more manageable include v-land, chun's, and perhaps turtle bay. If you're comfortable, just a paddle-out at a place like sunset or waimea can be really fun. Intimidating for sure, but if you have access to a larger board its pretty great just to get out there and get a feel for the lineups.Quote:
Originally Posted by Piggity
If you get down south, check out "spitting caves" in the portlock neighborhood. Not small kid friendly by any means, but a pretty sweet, albeit hairy, cliff jump. Only recommended on mellow days, but if you get it right, it makes for a thrill you won't soon forget. Just make sure to spend a few observing the ebb, flow, and periodic explosions from the cave. If your wife is anything like mine she'll forbid you from partaking!
I'm a creature of habit, Haleiwa again this morning. Definitely no waimea or sunset for me. 8ft+ on average with bigger sets. Toward the end of the session a set hit the outer reefs, knew it was gonna hit hard so paddled fast to get outside....ended up taking a set of DOH+ waves on the head. Pushed me half way into the beach. Realized DOH North Shore and DOH mainland are 2 different beasts. Caught a few ok waves today but I'm probably one of the worst surfers on Oahu right now. Doesn't help that it feels like my 6'8" paddles like a water logged 6'2". Might borrow my buddies 6'10" for this next swell, we'll see
Its a unique brand of terror that wells up inside of one's chest when placed in those positions. Glad you're able to joke about it.
The final today was all-time. Easily the best competitive surfing I've seen. John John sunk the equivalent of a half-court shot with a second on the clock. Epic. Glad you're having fun. I'm jealous. Got any interesting driving stories yet? Operators of automobiles can be pretty funny on Oahu, especially in the city. By funny I mean atrocious.
For those who aren't planning on wowing the lineup with their performance surfing, like all of us, paddling power is where its at. If it can get you into a wave, and draw a consistent line, go for the bigger, better paddling board. Although it doesn't sound like you need any encouragement in this category. Go big.
Epic to watch in person, crappy cell phone pics of a sick sequenceQuote:
Originally Posted by BirdRock
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7009/6...44bc90642d.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6...0d3b98acc8.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7156/6...ce432bcd50.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7152/6...0d99262634.jpg
only took me 4 tries to get these photos up, damn tgr's new photo upload