Printable View
Well, I fucked up. I cranked on that drill bit collar pretty hard, but it slipped and I now have a nice hole through one of my skis. Besides buying a proper bit from Tognar (already done), any suggestions?
I'm thinking of completing the mount, filling with some good epoxy, a base weld, and then skiing like nothing ever happened.
weight the butt of the scew driver will help.
In the shop i worked at we used a tap and I never recall having a hard time putting in the screws then if I dont tap.
I assume making sure you have a good punch to dimple the top sheet has been said. Other than than that the paper jigs rock.
Oh I find beer on hand helps with the mounting process-to much will not make you a better tech:biggrin:
You're not the first. I usually make sure the set screws are seated in the flute of the drill, so it bites well and holds, and crank tight like you said. Also, no need to pressure the drill next time.Quote:
Originally Posted by butterscotch
I'd just fill with epoxy, base weld and ski, but then I have those tools at my immediate disposal.
The Dynafit template rules! Thanks!
I think I would prefer if there were more/skinnier alignment lines for front/back and side/side, but this could also just make things more confusing when trying to line things up.
I need to remount my dynafit toes just 7mm from the previous mount. I switched boots and use the Vertical Race Ti binding that does not have an adjustable heel. Because of a very bad combination of the difference in the bsl of my previous boot and my new boot, the best option is to move the toe 7mm back. I know 7mm is not much of difference, so should I use nylon inserts, helicoil, or just remount them? I don't want to do the remount unless it will be solid since I use this setup for ski mountaineering. The ski are Karhu Sprire BC. They don't have a metal topsheet. BTW, if the 7mm difference is not advisable, the best option for a remount that's 10mm from each of the old holes is to mount at about 2 cm behind boot center, which is a bit farther back than I'd like. Thanks for any advise.
Any insight on how to change the print scale for the dynafit template to 20 CM by 8 inches like it says? Im a computer JONG using a mac the only program i can open the PDF file in is Preview. Any suggestions?
set print scaling to 100% and try it. If the scale doesn't match your ruler perfectly, adjust up or down by 1% increments until it does.
Attachment 90246
Alright ill try that thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
Many thanks for the binding template (R6) for Solly bindings and what a great product. Just had a practise on a piece of plywood and very simple to use. Found that boot CL was 3mm fwd of ski CL, boots are 297mm.
I assume that one cuts each pattern across at the BSL measurement and then centres the join over the ski centre line.
Getting an accurate centre line tip to tail was exercising me until I realised that a compass would do the trip. I've got Sal Lords and just next to the edge is a tiny flat of plastic, enough to stick a sharp compass point into. Stick point into ski CL and scribe arcs towards tip and tail from both sides. Repeat with different radius. One now has 4 arc intersections on the ski - 2 fwd and 2 aft. Line steel edge through all intersections and one has a centre line. Using 4 intersections will bowl out any errors.
I was also thinking of mounting with rear binding moved forward on track as my boot is probably quite small for a 177cm ski, enabling larger boots to be used if/when I sell skis.
I've also found that the metal tube and screws out of an electrical "choc" block connector makes an excellent depth stop.
Have one request - could the pattern be saved with thinner lines - nearer a hairline to help with accuracy.
Many thanks.
I helped a friend mount some Looks with look_pivot_axial_paper_template_R2.pdf last night. The toe was fine but the heel is scaled too large in the pdf file (confirmed in Photoshop and with a ruler once printed). The file needed to be scaled to 99% and then printed at 100% for the check marks to measure true.
Thanks again for the excellent templates. Jondrums :yourock:
I'm not able to confirm this - its scaled perfect as far as I can tell here.Quote:
Originally Posted by BamBam_540
Overlay the toe and heel pages in Photoshop (or similar). You'll see the "check print scaling" and midsole scales are scaled differently between the pages.Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
x2 mounted 2 pairs of old school FKS exactly like those recently using the paper templates.Quote:
Originally Posted by jondrums
It turns out that they are the same within the tolerance of Adobe PDF format (in my experience). Sorry, PDF is not the perfect format for these files, but it is the easiest for everyone to use. DXF would be better, but nobody would be able to use it. All the paper templates should be considered accurate to about +/-.25mmQuote:
Originally Posted by BamBam_540
Just un update on pdf line thickness. I used the Foxit PDF editor, free for evaluation but puts a graphic on the page which could be awkward for some BSLs, to reduce the lines thickness from 2.0 to 0.1. Now have very fine lines and at 100% scaling on an HP printer, the rulers are spot on.
Also, my Sal Lords have a white line across the ski which I assume is the mid point line to match up with the boot midsole line. It does not seem to tie up with the published dimension of 791mm for 177 skis, which I understand is measured from the tail. Can anyone confirm?? And whether the measurement is along the top surface or bottom of the ski??
I didn't read this thread. But could someone answer this for me. I got the dynadukes with a template that's one page. There's another template that's two pieces of paper. What's the difference between these? Do I mount the 1 page template by just aligning the bsl with my mount point and lining up the center lines?
this should be a sticky
I want to thank you Jondrums for the GREAT work on these templates. I used the Look PX 12 template to mount PX12s on two pairs Coombas and it worked like a charm. Perfect results. Question/comment now to anyone is regarding Marker Jester template which are rumored to work for Griffons as well... I have new Griffon bindings (the fixed toe and heel mount version, not the schizo) to mount on all mtn skis and the r3 template here for the Jester looks like a perfect fit on the heel but the toe is off on width of screw holes. Print scaling was not an issue BTW as that checked perfect. Is there a template specific to the Griffon? If not I'll tweak the Jester template to increase the dimension between screw holes on the toe piece.
I just mounted inserts for Atomic 614s using the salomon template. Thanks jondrums!
Was the template adjusted for this heel misplacement? Its not a big deal as I can just move the heel template up a few mm but I don't want to move it up if it has been changed already.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty_J
Anybody try to grab a template lately? I get an error message....must be due to the forum upgrades?
I got the same message today. Luckily the template I needed was still in my downloads folder. I've got the Duke and FKS template. If you need one of those two send me a PM and I can get them to you.
uhhh - this sucks. help?Quote:
Anybody try to grab a template lately? I get an error message....must be due to the forum upgrades?
If it helps anyone, I've got the following templates stored on my hard drive at home:
duke R3
dynaduke 11x17 R2
dynaduke R2
dynafit R2
FKS R8
fritchi R2
look pivot R2
look px axial2 R3
look px race R3
marker jester R3
salomon R6
sollyfit R2
tyrolia R3
I won't be able to access them until Friday night though.
A few months ago I went and saved most of them as well. Send a PM if you want what I have.
Pm sent to WW. Anyone else able to send me a copy of the DynaDuke template, not the 11x17 version, the other one? I would rather not wait till Fri.
Looks like we are back in business. This little glich has made me appreciate this thread even more!
Muchas gracias Jondrums!
Thread is still hard at work..
I'm about to mount a pair of 900s 916s but am having an overlap issue with the fifth hole in the heels. I'm wondering if anyone knows how much room for adjustment these heels have, and where in that range mounting on the number BSL-wise leaves me.
In other words, if I line up the template for a 290 BSL with a 290 boot, how far forward can I move the heel without moving the toe and still adjust them to fit my boots??
I think there is about +/- 12mm of adjustment in most solly heels. The template should be spot on middle of the adjustment, but sometimes boots have an actual BSL that is slightly different than the marked number, and the interface of the toe to the front geometry means that it does depend quite a bit on which boot you have. Mount on a 2x4 and try it out is the best way.
Will do, thanks. Amazingly fast reply!!! If I am indeed in the middle of that range and can get +5 or 6 mm without moving the toe I will be good to go. :yourock::yourock::yourock::yourock:
**EDIT** Seems like I got lucky and my 25.5 290mm Scarpa Typhoons run (or have worn) quite a bit smaller than they are marked. I mounted the 916s to a board with the 290 marks on the template and set the forward pressure. I then marked where the heel piece was, started moving it back along the track, and was able to move it a full cm before it hit the stops! I moved the heel holes forward 1cm on the board, screwed it back in, set the forward pressure again, and voila... no more overlap. Hooray!
^^^^Just don't use the fifth hole.
Thought that was frowned upon in these parts??Quote:
Originally Posted by rludes025
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...916-heel-slop?
Damn it, the dynafit template is just wrong. I set the template for 295mm (boots are 26 Scarpa Maestrales, listed at 297, measure at 296). Mounted with FT12's, I go to snap the boot it, screw the heel forward...FUCK. Hit the end of the adjustment, and heel is still too far back for the boot (by a few mm's).
Yes, I doubled checked that the template is set to 295.
Yes, my printer scaled at 100%.
No, the boot is not significantly shorter than its stated size.
I guess I should've tested the mount on something else first, but I didn't think it would be a problem with the large adjustment range in FT12's.
Furthermore, the mount would have been perfectly fine if I used Pechelman's old templates.
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...sers-Paper-Jig!
Measurements for the distance between the back toe screw and front heel screw:
These templates @295/as mounted on skis: 259 mm
Pechelman's 296 Dyna template: 253 mm.
There's the extra 6 mm I needed.
Edit: See post below. I'm not at the end of the track, but instead the brake plate is hitting the mounting screws. I took the brakes off (err still trying on the second ski, damn bushing is impossible to get out of the heel) and now I can slide the heel forward enough. Even so, I'm nowhere near at the center of the track (about 80% forward). Problem somewhat solved, though I can't use brakes on these skis anymore. Just seems like dynafit gave me the wrong screws. The heel should use flatheads that countersink into the recessed area. Instead, the pan head blocks about 1/3 of the track movement when brakes are used.
Can anyone else post the type of screws in their FT12 heels (most importantly, if they stick out above the baseplate or not)?
I mounted a pair using the template a couple of nights ago and it ended up within 2mm of center on the heel. I've done lots of mounts with this template, and even manufactured many hundreds of plates with this exact pattern. If there was one template I am confident in, its the dynafit template.
I've done a few mounts with this template and have some of your plates as well. Didn't have any problems with ST's on flat skis, or FT's on plates. Strange indeed.
Upon looking further, I might not be at the end of the track. Instead, it seems like the metal track of the brakes is hitting the front heel screws. If that's the problem, this is a retarded oversight on Dynafit's part. These screws should be recessed into the baseplate so that the metal track can slide above them.
I checked the templates, and just want to verify..
I´m planning to replace small dukes with sth14s. Bsl 316mm. Should be good?
bump....
I am not sure anyone understands your question. Like will the holes overlap? Do the holes on the template, I would take the major extrapolation from that piece of evidence as your answer.