Srsly...I guess there's gonna be some creative welding going on with the BD ascensions.
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Srsly...I guess there's gonna be some creative welding going on with the BD ascensions.
I have BD STS skins... with Clipfix tail hardware substituted for the normal tip loops
works perfect
A precise loop of accessory cord inside a small rubber tube?
I think the new G3 skin tip tabs (non-loop thingy) should work well for that size and shape.
Ball bearings
haha
5678
It's all about ball bearings these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fritz
...Maybe you guys need a refresher course.
If I did this over again, I would prob just use cable, vinyl tubing, a copper swage to connect the cable, and forget the aluminum tubing. There is a little tip taper on the Ruby, so you could prob make it work, just make the loops wide enough to barely slip over the square tip.
http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=50667
Sweet link bio
thats an amazing link. Especially since im going to have to modify skis to fit on comi-kazis...i still have no idea how to to the swallowtail with clipfix. Maybe the swallowtail channel will be wide enough?
Good stuff Bio.
Nice homebrew.
However, for any totally flat tip ski, bisnibble has the correct solution. People often ditch Clipfix hardware to substitute for STS, too, so you may be able to find it in someone's gear box for free.
Using clipfix on both ends was gonna be my next plan, but GT40 and I solved the riddle...I think. The normal tip loops have two Al tubes, one short and one long. The long one doubles as the crimp that holds the wire in a loop. The short tube floats freely on the wire along with the small plastic tubing bits that wrap the edge of the ski.
In order to make the entire loop larger we cut the wire as far from the long (crimped) tube as we could. This required removing one of the plastic tubes first so it was essentially destroyed. (I have solution for this now though it's too late for my rig).
We then slid the uncrimped tube and the remaining plastic tube off the wire. So as to keep the crimped tube centered we trimmed the wire on each side of it evenly.
We then used a hacksaw to cut the smaller uncrimped tube in half. These halves would no serve as crimps to splice in a new length of wire. Using a vice we attached one of the new "crimps" to each end of the original wires. (Be sure to only crush about 1/3 of the tube so you can get the wire in the other side).
Next we set wrapped it around the tip of the ski to get a measurement for the length of wire we would need to add. This is the crucial bit as you need to dial this in pretty tight on ski like the Ruby. Too big and it'll slide down the ski, too small and it'll sit too high up on the tip and never stay put. Once you get it all sorted you cut the new piece of wire, slide it inot the open ends of the crimps and crush it in the vice. Voila!
After finishing the project you always come up with better options. I figured we should have just started by cutting the shorter tube with a hacksaw which would allow us to cut the wire in the middle and spare us from destroying the plastic tubing. Oh well...no big deal. I'll do far more damage to the skis than the wires rubbing the sidewall will ever do.
We'll see if it holds up tomorrow.
Just adding an update on how I did it.
Cut tip loops that came w/ the skins to obtain the two plastic tubes and the shorter metal tube.
Cut a wire of similar gauge to the desired length (A bit of trial and error when I did it)
Discard the longer crimped tube, BD used some sort of super-fusion to hold that wire in and I couldn't figure out a way to remove it w/o destroying the tube itself.
Slide the two plastic tubes onto the wire, jam a ton of jb weld into the smaller tube, insert the wire to meet in the middle and crimp it well.
The only drawback I found to this is there is no larger tube to go on top of the skis and you need to spend an extra moment to make sure the plastic tubing is actually over where the wire would otherwise contact the ski as they float pretty freely.
There are probably better options for epoxy where you crimp the wire but jb weld is just my go-to.
FYI, I found that 10-10.5" is a "precise" length for the cord, if you're using 1/16" wire cable.Quote:
Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark
sweet idea! either that or some unpleasently gnarly mods to either tip-loop or shovel, or both.Quote:
Originally Posted by bisnibble
G3's clips work pretty fine, basically the same idea as modding with Clipfix on both ends.