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So I'm a freaking ski tech JONG. I want to paint my Deep Powders (thanks Mtlion) and I'm not sure how to remove and reinstall the bindings. I mean is it as simple as unscrewing them, putting a q-tip in the holes, painting them, and then screwing them back in again? Can anything really be that easy? Thanks in advance helping to make some big fat skis purty.
Yes its as easy as that but you got to go slowly. Take the screws out slowly without putting too much down pressure on them so you don't fuck up the threads and when you put them back, make sure the holes are clean of paint/water and go even slower making sure you get the same thread action and don't forget the white glue action jackson. The screws have to go in like a hot knife in butter, don't force anything. If theres a little resistance, start again. Oh yeah, make sure you don't mix up the screws, sometimes they are different lengths. Whats color scheme are you going for?
Get the right screw driver. Its not a normal phillips. Its a Pozi-drive or something like that.
Some screws are epoxied in place and you need to heat them to remove them...but then I'm a dentist, so what do I know?
It's a pozidrive #3 Scredriver.
Yes it is as easy as that. Use some loc-tite in each of the holes when rescrewing. Go slow, the screws should not be forced into place.
Thanks for the info all. I'll pick up the correct screwdriver and some Loctite from the Home Depot when I go to get the Krylon. As far as the paint scheme goes, I'm thinking of doing something simple like all white with two pennies on one tip and three on the other underneath the clear coat.
From what I've read it looks like lots of clear coat is in order. I'm going to use Fusion for the 2 to 3 coats of color, but what is the most apropriate choice for a few coats of clear? These boards don't see a whole lot of action, but I'd like them to last for a while.
Get waterproof wood glue, not Loctite.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser
Im also not too sure about putting loctite in the holes. I always use plain white glue. I dont know that if you put loctite in there, you can still remove the screws again after if the bindings break for example or you feel like a new color scheme?Quote:
Originally Posted by INDY GS
What like Elmers? Waterproof wood glue sounds like a good plan, but I really wouldn't know. What do the ski tuning shops use?
Skishops use PVA (polyvinyl acetate), aka white glue. I would not recommend using loctite, it usually results in thread damage when unscrewing.
hey cruiser
shoot me a PM if you want to borrow my pozi driver
generally home depot doesnt have a #3.
best I can find there is a #2 PZ thats found in a box of deck screws.
also use some sort of waterproof glue, although I would reccomend epoxy for everything. Gorilla glue, waterproof carpenters glue, silicone rtv, whatever really, but epoxy is the strongest.
loctite is the totally WRONG item to use.
its primarially used to lock fasteners threaded into metals and not wood or foam.
it wont create a great waterproof seal either because its not designed to do so.
again, pm me if you need to borrow some glues.
Schweet. PM replied. I deleted you addy though when I douched my box the other day. I'm kinda slow.
The cro-mags at Home Depot will look at you like you just requested yellow cake plutonium if you ask for a Pozi #3. I had to order mine online.
The Pozi #3 IS critical though. Never use a normal Phillips.
Also, get a t-handle driver for your pozi bits. It makes breaking them loose a breeze.
I just went though hell trying to find a pozidrive head. I tried home depot as well as the local hardware store. At both places employees though I was insane, and making up a new kind of bit.
Save yourself some pain and order it online at sears. They will pick the piece for you, all you need to do is park in front of the pickup bay, and they will bring it to you (usually less than 2 minutes from park to depart)
http://beta.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...s&keyword=pozi
I just did this to replace a heel track for my 912s (snapped on both skis WTF). You might need some sort of ratchet to get enough torque to get the screws out (mine had previously been glued). I used some outdoor-waterproof wood/carpenter's glue. I I was wary to use epoxy in case I ever did have to take out the screws again. If you know you won't need to, epoxy is probably the way to go though.
I've had problems with this in the past. Once you take them out and the screws are going back in the same holes, I'd have a shop helio coil (spelling) them. It's scary having a binding come flying off, especially if it's the heel piece and you have a run away ski.
did all you people stay at a holiday inn express last night?
At a shop I used to work at they always used the Loctite Red or something. We never had a problem with it causing issues. If we did have trouble removing after the fact we applied a little heat, and that was that.
But I will concede that a poly type "waterproof" glue is prolly better. Just don't use something like elmers.
Hey:rolleyes: thats what I use, the plain cheap white elmers glue...All you need is a water seal right and nothing else if the threads are good and tight and thats exactly what that glue does. If some screws tend to get loose or unscrew easily, then id use some sort or stronger wood specific glue!Quote:
Originally Posted by INDY GS
except for the fact, plain white elmers glue is water based and therefore water soluble.Quote:
Originally Posted by skiwithcharlie
elmers carpentry\wood glue is generally waterproof (sometimes the interior specific ones arent).
moral of the story, just look for waterproof glue.
I used elmer's waterproof wood glue for a while, but the screws I'd pull out later were rusty - water was creeping in there somehow. Switched to elmers ultimate/gorilla glue and it's been all good since.
There is a write up on epoxy on Dawson's site, but what does he know, he's a dentist.
Silicone has always worked for me.
in more ways than one :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Pow4Brains
How tight do you guys tighten the screws after you have reattached the binding.
~snug + a half
snug being where everything is fully in contact and the screw just begins to starts to preload the joint
not that im an expert or anything, so i favor judgement to people who have been doing this longer than i, ie marshal etc