Ugh. Seriously.

Quote:

---

JOKER: I am fucking bored to death, man. I ain't seen a slash slashed in anger for weeks.

PAYBACK: Joker's so gnarly he'd drop in da hui, get pounded, then ask for seconds.

JOKER: (John Wayne Voice) Listen up, Pilgrim. A day without swell is like a day without sunshine.

PAYBACK: Shi-i--i-t! Joker thinks da kine is between old mama-san's legs.

PAYBACK: He's never been in the shit. It's hard to talk about it man, it's like the past 6 fucking weeks.

---

I'm barely into this shit and am bored out of my mind. I feel for anyone on the east coast who makes this their life.

I've skated, wakeboarded, worked 70 hour weeks, masturbated, swam, fished, done pushups in the searing south florida heat and fed my dog live mullet. And I'm over it. I want to get wet. I want to be scared. I want to be sucked over the falls for duck-diving at the wrong time. And I want to be rendered breathless paddling, clawing for a wave and barely making it only to have my breath stolen more on the drop.

I want to be in country.

Cowabunga.

Move to Indo bitch

I'm not core enough for Indo.

Hurricanes are always a good source of waves. You can keep 'em on that coast, though.

How's it going? Just remember- summer ends in October. Enjoy!

monster halloween swell, 1991

I remember that Halloween Swell. Living in New York at the time. 90th St in Rockaway was triple overhead, off shore winds, clean, lined up :D - and super fun especially considering the size and currents. Who knew a sand bottombreak could take that much water moving. The swell was moving nearly perpendicular to Long Island making for super long lefts.

I would not expect that again. Just pray for head high and be content. It has been a crap summer. :mad: