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Surfing is Easy
Well, the standing and riding in 3-foot mush isn't so bad, but the paddling -- ouch!
Headed up to the in-laws for father's day and lookie, lookie, nice little swell running. Finally. Only like a retard I didn't bring my board because it was supposed to be flat. So I rented a 7'10" epoxy that I couldn't really duck-dive.
My paddling is fucking horrendous. It was probably a 150-200 yard paddle to the outer bar and I was worked when I made it out. WORKED. I also didn't bring my usual water glasses so had my regular wireframes ghetto-ed with a shoelace leash and kept losing them. Kooksville.
After remembering how to catch waves I had a really good time. Riding the line frontside and backside, but I kept outrunning the wave. Need to learn to take my time and I think my smaller board will help.
Highlights: Grabbing the rail on a backside wave, mainly for my wife who was swimming inside. Also to end the day I rode nearly to shore, stepped off into knee-deep water, and gave the point to 2 16-year-old girls. Also for the wife who was behind them playing with our daughter.
FUCKING SO MUCH FUN. Can't wait to get on (a little) bigger waves with a smaller board. Think then the actual riding of the waves will be the part that kicks my ass.
Woop!
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Rail grab in 3-foot mush? Please tell me you threw an air. Well, it sounds like you had a lot of fun.
I think it would have been hysterical if you pulled a Shooter MacGavin as you pointed to the 16 year olds.
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No air. It was all for style, baby. I'm sure I looked retarded but it was fun as hell. Really nice when I got comfy with handling the board and could paddle for the peak, turn quick and catch it.
Too bad it'll be flat for the next month :(. Guess I'll practice paddling so I don't the the jimmy arms again.
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I feel your pain jayfrizzo. I am originally from Fort Lauderdale. Its pretty flat down there.
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