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Classic OB
By Niceness........
Nice morning.
Suit up and run down.
Over the dunes and it looks ok.
A little bigger than i was hoping (as usual) but not crazy big.
Appears to be somewhat glassy on the outside.
Two dudes way out there.
Woke up late so don’t have much time.
Wade out and begin paddling… and duckdiving…
and duckdiving… and duckdiving… and duckdiving…
and duckdiving… and duckdiving… and duckdiving…
and duckdiving… and duckdiving… and duckdiving…
and duckdiving… and duckdiving… and duckdiving…
and duckdiving… and duckdiving… and duckdiving…
and duckdiving… and duckdiving… and duckdiving…
Fucking freezing fuck you OB fucking fuck fuck.
A million duckdives (seriously) later i’m finally out there.
All the little injuries shouting hello. Knee, wrist, back, shoulder.
Face freezing off.
But there are a few waves that provide a momentary thrill.
Catch two quick rights.
Then a longer left were i’m able to turn off the bottom and then carve a small one off the top.
Then i’m staring at 18 rows of whitewater again! WTF!?!?
20 duckdives later i’m still not out and i decide to call it a session.
Two fisted middle-finger salute to OB as i’m getting repeatedly bashed.
Wash up onto the beach dejected and disgruntled but mildly satisfied by that one left.
Walk back up the dunes, look back at the ocean and the surf looks mellow and inviting.
argh!
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Yup, that's every OB surf sesh I've ever done. You forgot the howling wind and the river riptides though. Makes you wonder why you ever consider paddling back out there...but you will.
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I almost went there today after checking Cron but decided against it when two folks that had just been there said it was gnar. Instead, I drove up to Stinson and totally flailed in some 2' (10" hawaiian) surf.
One of these days I'll pop my OB cherry. Maybe.
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hopefully you made amends today because as of an hour and a half ago it was pretty damned good.
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yep, spent some qt at Bolinas today. Glissssssssssssseeeeeee!
I'll probably be up there just about every day for the next couple of weeks.
