climbing mags: training for indoor comp?

I just got tipped off about a local indoor climbing competition coming up in March. I haven't climbed indoors in 8 years, and have never competed.

Anyone here ever compete in an indoor climbing event? What do you even call it -- a contest? What are they likely to be judging us on -- speed on a given route? Isn't there a huge advantage to going second so you can flash the route?

Beyond the obvious ("just climb a lot"), does anyone have any specific training concepts? Lots of pullups and core-strengthening?

Training wise, you'll probably benefit the most from "just climbing a lot" because you haven't climbed in so long. I think it's unlikely that your technique and finger-strength will come back so quickly that you'll need more training than just climbing. Note: core strengthening is the acception to this, IMO. You should be doing extra core training in addition to your climbing workouts.

I can't answer your other questions, except that I *believe* competitors are not allowed to see the route/problem until it's their turn, for obvious reasons. Is it a route climbing comp, or bouldering? Where is the comp?

you're not allowed to see the route till it is your turn, or everyone can see the route before, core strength and squats will be good training, I know a few guys that keep their upper body hammered as well. That way they use their hands just as much as their feet, which means that more options open up, which can speed things up. Also, if there is a real hard crux, go for the glory and dyno it.

I've seen comps where it's just about completing a problem - each problem getting harder until everyone is out.

edg

I assume that if you haven't climbed in 8 years, this is an amateur comp. If it's like the local comps we have at the Front, the concept is pretty laid back. It usually consists of lots of problems and it's kind of self-judging. You get points for completing a problem, and less points for each unsuccessful attempt. It's a nice format because you don't have tons of people watching you all the time.

Phunk's right...just climb a lot to get your technique flowing again. Just don't overdo it and blow a tendon. Do lots of L-sits, leg raises, and other core stuff.

at the spot in boulder the comps they have are first judged on if you finish the problem or not which are each worth a certain number of points(minus X points for a fall i believe), but then, anyone who is tied in the number of climbs they completed/points they have are judged on how much time it took total to complete each problem, so there is a running timer for you the whole way.

Key event prior to your comp while in isolation is "chair bouldering".

Quite fun, in a twisted sorta way.

Sounds like good advice, all. With the exception of a dozen or so easy sport climbs thrown in when I lived next to a quarry for a short while, the climbing I've done in the intervening years has all been incidental to scrambling or snow mountaineering. Climbing in big boots with a full pack doesn't bear much resemblance to indoor climbing on slightly overhanging walls, so I figure I'm essentially starting over.

This comp is at the town gym -- not a rock gym, but they have a wall they're trying to promote with an open-to-townies competition. I'm sure it will be quite relaxed -- last year (the first year) there were more prizes than competitors.

Very good advice to avoid blowing a tendon. That would suck.

Depends on the comp...

Is it a onsight competition, or speed climbing or boulder comp?

But in your case, just climbing and route reading will be the best option. For OS comp, try to OS as many (different kind of) routes to improve your route reading.

For a speed comp, you need to get really confident (don't look at your feet, place them on the holds you had yer hands earlier) and also be willing to risk it (dyno, dyno and dyno some more). So for that you need to basicly climb lots and lots...

Bouldering, well ya guessed it... Boulder, but also do easier roped routes for stamina.


And warm up, on really easy (juggy) routes to get all your muscles and tendons warm... And try not to blow them tendons, it's a week of rest from climbing at the minimum....

You "blow" a tendon and you're looking at multiple weeks of absolutely no climbing.

I'm on week 7 of no climbing. :(

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Originally Posted by phUnk

You "blow" a tendon and you're looking at multiple weeks of absolutely no climbing.

I'm on week 7 of no climbing. :(

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Yeah, you're right. Thus far I've been lucky... Only have tweaked and irratated a few tendons and have to either tape the sh*t out of it, or do the smart thing and let it rest for a week.