Shits, giggles and barrels at Secret Reef, CA 10/28/06
With a sweet NW swell hitting the coast it was time to head somewhere to score.
The Dirty Aussie was in town from Tahoe and needed to get his surf fix in before the season starts. We checked out this spot at first light and it was firing.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...nani/spotx.jpg
Head high barrels unloaded off the reef with no one out. I scanned the lineup for the men in the grey suits (or more aptly, the men in the white suits). The fact that I caught a Discovery Channel shark show the night before- the one that shot within spitting distance from this surf spot, not to mention that this has been the site of a previous whitey attack did little to ease my nerves. Those empty head-high barrels didn't look so tempting.
But fuck it. We're out there. The Dirty Aussie made his way to the lineup. I followed behind. Pretty soon we felt like we were in the middle of some wildlife sanctuary. Sea Otters cruised by us floating on their backs. Gigantic Pelican swooped in, splashing in the lineup and eyeing us with curiosity. Packs of seal pups and their mommas cruised by. Dolphins danced around. Consistent sets hit the reef and there were insane lefts and rights all round.
Never mind the fact that you just put yourself somewhere in the food chain. With all these animals cruising around it comforted us to think that we weren't the only pieces of meat on the aquatic buffet table. Pretty soon I had relaxed enough to enjoy the seemingly endless supply of perfect head-high waves.
Can't believe this was a Saturday morning, and we had it all to ourselves for over a couple hours. The crowd rocked up later on and we left when there was a pack of ten surfers competing for the less consistent waves.
That afternoon we cruised up to Ocean Beach which was slightly bigger but way more crowded. I think I'll be heading back to "Secret Reef" instead.
