i'm gonna go grab another slice of pizza
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i'm gonna go grab another slice of pizza
Got this e-mail from a surf bud today:
one of my surf buds just came back from mentawais. he said they caught 2 swells, 6-8ft (hwn) and it was HEAVY. the boat was exclusive, organized by one of his friends. ½ from CA, ½ from HI. the cali guys didn’t paddle out. ha… 2 days each of 8ft, several of 6 and then some fun 2-4 ft days. he said even macca’s is heavy… shallow.
you HAVE to make your drop. there is no straightening out. EVERYONE got cut up or slather on the reef. the guy who organizes the trip each year, he hit his knee on the reef, cut it and bruised the bone 6 days into the trip. couldn’t surf after that.
geez, you almost wish that you DON’T catch swell… I’d be happy with overhead surf… but double OH? Lance’s right (HT’s), the right that you always see on the vids… VERY HEAVY… wicked shallow reef. doubling up on the inside.
also, it was really windy when they were there so the spots were limited and each spot was crowded since every boat driver knows which spot handles what wind. some had 7 boats on it… like macca’s
and they coulda gone to county line for free.
but pizza is good and cheap there....