Mountianering jong (I can't even spell the word)

Ok, so I want to go down here:
http://www.defunctlegend.com/tgr/torysroute.jpg

(tory's)

My gear:
beacon/shovel/probe
a few AT rigs (skis, boots, skins) to choose from
a climbing harness

My skills include:
ability to use all above gear
without doubt or question the ability to ski above route, without falling
rusty rock climbing skills (belay, tie climbing knots , other really basic stuff)
General experience, navigation skills, and decent judgement, including the ability to just go home.

The goal:
Ski above route without killing myself or my GF who in all likleyhood will end up being my partner.

The question:
What gear and/or skills do I need to gain/practice/master in order to accomplish my goals?

i have nothing to add, other than practice makes perfect (ie. ski something smaller on a similar aspect in the same area and see how it goes)


but your new setup will help (capital BMC w/ FR+)

Yeah -
I kind of mis-stated the goal, I am much more worried about going up then down, but yes the capitals should help.

North chutes on Torreys. Cool line, but not sure if it goes through. You MIGHT have to rappel through the crux. Tough to tell from the highway. If it does go through all you have is a fucking TON of hiking to the top, then a good bit hiking out unless you stategically leave cars on the access road.

avy education for you and your partner (gf)?

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Originally Posted by jrosendahl

rusty rock climbing skills (belay, tie climbing knots , other really basic stuff)

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I wouldnt do any route involving rock climbing or rappelling! Stick to something more wide open until you get a good look at the particular line up close. And more experience with rock protection

btw: reallistically all you should need is some crampons and an ice axe.

don't think it gets above 50deg. just boot straight up what you want to ski

sweet - thanks for the advice all.
Looks like I am in the market for some crampons and some ice axes.

take a look-see at BSR when you pick up your skis... i can show you what you may be interested in anyhow...

and the line *should* go, i ski'd it at the end of may in 2004 and it went fine (fairly similar snowpack to this year).

Wouldn't be a bad idea to learn (or pratice) self-arresting incase you or the GF took a fall.

if you dont know self arrest and cramponing techniques you shouldnt be doing anything that requires ice axe and crampons. period. learn first because that could be a recipe for disaster. if theres an easier way up Torys (considering the route in the above pic is moderately difficult), im not familiar with the mountain, than maybe you should plan on making it an easier ascent and then skiing the route in the above pic.

what time of year were you planning to do this?

and, theres no need for a climbing harness unless your roping up or have to do some rappels. going by what it seems your experience level is, i would say anything that is so technical that it requires you to bring your harness youd probably want to stay away from. atleast for now.

Read this
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I was planning on doing it fairly soon. After, as you sugest, I walk arround on crapmons, and practice self-arresting. And after, as the GF suggests, we climb an easier 14er. I guess that plugs right back into the last comment here. I think the trick may to get out some of your poor judgement where it less likley to get you hurt.

It would seem to me that going up a different way from the way you go down, would be a good way for me to get into the kind of trouble you are talking about.

but hey - ya got to get experience sometime - that requires doing it at somepoint.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jrosendahl

I was planning on doing it fairly soon. After, as you sugest, I walk arround on crapmons, and practice self-arresting. And after, as the GF suggests, we climb an easier 14er. I guess that plugs right back into the last comment here. I think the trick may to get out some of your poor judgement where it less likley to get you hurt.

It would seem to me that going up a different way from the way you go down, would be a good way for me to get into the kind of trouble you are talking about.

but hey - ya got to get experience sometime - that requires doing it at somepoint.

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sounds like a good plan to get some practice with ice axe/ crampons and do another fairly routine fourteener before this. and if your doing it in late spring/summer than conditions will be much more stable. totally different if you were to do it in winter.

and, how do you suppose that you would get into trouble summiting via another route and skiing the one in above pic? this is done all the time. you said you know that you have the ability to ski above route so you've obviously looked into the route conditions and know this, right? and if your concerned with your climbing abilities than summiting via another route would reduce any risks associated with the climb. just make sure you know, for the most part (because you'll never know for sure untill your actually on the route), what the conditions are before hand.

and yes, you have to get the experience sometime and that means doing it but that doesnt mean jumping into something thats much more difficult than your ability warrants. you can still push yourself to get better without taking unnecessary risks (which is what jumping into something thats way over your head would be). you have to work your way up with this kind of sport. there arent any accomplished climbers or ski mountaineers out there that, when they were starting, just said 'well i need the experience sometime so why dont i just go climb/ski the Grand Teton.' yes this is a little different than the Grand Teton but you get my point. stay smart - its all about calculated risks.

99.999999% of people that skis the emperor chutes hike up from the steven's gulch TH and park a second car at the mine or 4wd w/semi-burly rigs to the base of the chutes. The one you have your line drawn through usually is not continuous and requires a rap/huck/downclimb at the rockband but the chute just lookers right usually goes through.

I worry more about your gf.

The Emp is not really a good starting point for 1st time spring chuters.

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The Emp is not really a good starting point for 1st time spring chuters.

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I can accept that, Do you have any sugestions as to what would be a good starting point for first time spring chuters?