Anyone Recall An Edge Splice Instructional Video?

Seems like I remmeber an instructional video on splicing in new segments of edge that was crossposted here from ttips or somewhere. Ville broke an edge on his Bros and was asking me how to fix it. I thought this video would be a good view for him to do his repair. Tom?

And yes, I did recommend the door hinge fix.

Thanks, CoreShot. I told Ville to check in here.

mntlion - 'the mang' once again.

I was thinking about recommending something like that with spot weld from a tig welder, but went for the video, because it demonstrates the step by step; or the door hinge, because it's simple and it works.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by train07

Ah should rephrase my question cause ah can see the befuddled look....what I meant was, the telemarktips link shows a perforated edge (not talking about the pics of break in Bros above)....The repair job I somewhat "ghettoed" had solid flange edges, at least at boot center. Just wondering how typical the perforated edges are as opposed to those who use solid edges. I remember having xscream edges rip out like the ones shown on teletip and they appear to be flimsy p.o.s....didn't even bother to try a repair job on those things.

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I'm still struggling with your question.......
By 'perforated' do you mean segmented? To me, perforated means full of holes.
Tell me about flange edges - I'm not sure of that term either. Do you speak of the teeth that go into the glass and core?
Most edges are the same, varying only in thickness and metal density......

OK, train, I looked. Been a while since I've seen that...
I think a visual impression is gotten from the photo that that edge has perforations but I think those are what I call the teeth and are not connected, but flare outward in both directions, leaving the impression that those are holes. But I might have seen some edges that had holes instead of T flared flanges. Most standard edge flanges (like R48s) flare out in a T fashion and bonds to the bottom of the sidewall and (in what I consider to be better built skis) the core. The closer that edge is to a wood core, the easier it is to do what coldsmoke says, otherwise you're drilling into sidewall or, in some cases, air between the sidewall and core that forms during hot pressing at excessive pressure (the cause of most sidewall blowouts I have seen, other than core misalignment in a unencased mold). Although sidewalls support virtually all edges on all vertlam skis, edge compressions or edge breaks/pullouts on skis that have edges supported at least partially by wood core make the repair easier.



edit: clarity