Slight Spinners - Binding Mount - To Ski or not Ski?

Re-used holes for Pivots Last night. 13/16 holes went well, cinched down super tight. 3 of the rearmost heel screws are *slight* spinners though (2 on one ski, 1 on the other). Cinched down decently tight, flush, with relatively good bite, but I could feel them start to let go a bit the last 1/4 turn I used gorilla glue, which should have decent bonding properties. Tempted to ski them as-is, particularly because there is a good chance I will only ski these a day before catch-and-release (will inform next buyer, hoepfully they would need to remount the heels anyways for a different boot size). FKS heels are known for ripouts occasionally though, so makes me a bit nervous. I do have epoxy and fiberglass cloth I can pull the heels and use to try and fix the mount (pack holes, lightly screw in, let set, cinch down next day). I have had mixed results in the past doing this, worked great once - and not at all the next time (perhaps because I used too much epoxy and not enough fiberglass). I also have inserts I can install, but do not really want to ~waste~ 8 inserts and screws and mismatch the binding screws. What say the maggots? Anyone ever ski on *slight* spinners and not die?

what ski? K2 or Bents? heli coil.
Most other skis with metal? check the screw in the AM, if tight, ski em for the day

IME make the half inch long FG strands wet with slow set but make the mixture more FG than epoxy so an FG rich mixture , cram the hole run the screw in, when screw is about to spin leave it to set for a couple days after which if you can crank the screw down hard its no longer a spinner, IME a good fix is just like screwing into a non spinng hole slight spinner is like almost pregnant





I would use slowset epoxy becuz Gorrila glue isnt gona cut it to rebuild a spinner you are trying to rebuild a hole not just keep out moisture






I first talked LC thru this in 2009 and it worked

I just ran into the same issue and ordered some nylon inserts made by Wintersteiger.

I think if the FG trick doesn't work this is a good helicoil candidate. I have some I could give you but heading up to Palisades tonight, if you'll be up that way I could help out.

Dynafit MFrees. Looks like there’s a small sheet of metal in them

I may try the fiberglsss method tonight, tbd. @Fleaches if you have helicoil stuff up in Tahoe I’ll be in truckee/palisades Thursday night-Sunday if that doesn’t work


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This happens when remounting pivots because the rear most holes on the pivot bindings catch the threads of the screw and cause it to engage, making it difficult to feel if you've caught the threads of the existing hole on the ski. I've had it happen before and I just end up using inserts on the ski.

Everyone that mounts their own skis should have a helicoil kit IMO. Cheaper than inserts, totally solid(they expand when you drive the screw in) and you use regular binding screws.

FG strands + Slowset on slight spinners. 95% of the time after setting overnight you can tighten it down just like "non-spinners" in the morning. I'd do that before doing a helicoil or nylon insert.

I may try the fiberglsss method tonight,






More FG real slowset, do or do not there is no try

I would use JB weld and release agent on the screw

I've just left them. I used either wood glue or epoxy to mount bindings. Only pulled a binding out of one ski in my life. People overthink this stuff way too much.

Cutn pates from 2009





LC LC is offline Registered User Join Date Apr 2004 Posts 1,016 Re: Stripped binding hole repair Success! I was seriously doubting the repair after all this trouble but I had a final shot yesterday, mixing in a shitload of fibreglass into the epoxy, it was almost like putty in the end. Packed in as much as I could to all the holes then snugged down the "good" holes pretty lightly and got the bad ones to the point of almost stripping. 24 hours later now and I held my breath as I cranked them. Well they tightened up completely, I mean I really cranked them and they're solid. I really don't think grease or oil is necessary - I didn't use any here and they tightened up fine after they set. Pretty sure they'll come out with a bit of effort or maybe a little heat but no big deal. So thanks so much for the help, you really saved me on this one.






SO I counted 9 wtf-do-I-do-now posts in my old PMs from 2009 some guy ^^ named LC who is telling us to use shitloads of FG, I think LC likes me as oppsed to complaining I have too may posts from you know ... helping people

Well, checked the screws after 24 hours and they’re pretty tight/not spinning. I didn’t want to crank on them to break the glue, but seems like the gorilla glue did a pretty good job binding everything together

I May ski them a day to see if I want to keep them, then decide to helicoil or make the mount more robust


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I’d just check them after five-ish ski days and if they’ve backed out at all go back to the FG/slowset game plan. You’re gunna be fine

Quote:

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Originally Posted by phil_dirt

This happens when remounting pivots because the rear most holes on the pivot bindings catch the threads of the screw and cause it to engage, making it difficult to feel if you've caught the threads of the existing hole on the ski. I've had it happen before and I just end up using inserts on the ski.

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I drill out the extra plastic on my pivot heels so the screw threads don't engage in the binding. It's only a small amount of plastic material removed. Helps ya feel the threads if you're re-using holes or using tapped holes.

Epoxy +/steel wool bits has always worked for me. When we use glue in bolts climbing the glue is doing all the work. These are obviously much shorter, but the principle is the same.


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Plus seven upvotes for epoxy. Use a slow cure one. Super hard to find at hardware stores these days. Everyone is in a hurry. Epoxy soaks into the wood and makes new screw threads. Fixed a few spinners this way over the years. Never had a problem.

the way to tell if a screw is in an old set of threads or wanking up the hole is to turn screw gently backwards by hand in the hole to feel it drop in the old threads





the idea of runnign screws in until just before they spin is to use the threads of the screw as the mold for the new threads I am making with the FG & epoxy once this epoxy & mostly FG has cured there are new threads in the ski so I take the screw out which I have done to finish a mount or wtf and the threads are still there then I use a little more epoxy and crank them down for the final mount





I wouldn't trust GG to make threads out of FG and i want to put the caveat on theis thread and so the op should just get himself a helicoil kit

I am not familiar with the epoxy and steel wood method. If I understand you:

• Cut small bits of still wool (1-2mm)
• Mix slow set epoxy
• Add the still wool bits the mix
• Fill the hole with the epoxy and steel wool mix
• Screw the binding to make a new thread
• Finish to tighten the screw the next day until it stops spinning

Am I right?

Never used steel wool but it should work so I have always cut FG cloth into 1/2 inch lengths, I run the screws in until they are about to spin, I leave the slowset for 24 hr to cure, I crank down after the epoxy has cured at least 24 hrs, if it still spins when you crank the screw you still got a spinner and I would do it again

Why are you torquing screws to “cinched down super tight?” The holes were most likely fine until you over-torqued them.

Even after 30 yrs " tighten that screw till it strips and back it off 1/4 turn " was still funny

Super tight is too tight, 4nm is just moderate torque when screwing in by hand, any more and you are pre-stressing the topsheet.

Maybe I’ll start to use a torque wrench when reusing holes

On solid holes they’re usually a “wall” when tightening where it snugs up very quickly, spinners not so much


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