Edge Sharpening Kit

I never raced, and never cared too much about my edges or my bases. Tools not jewels, right? And besides, i ski in the PNW where we get consistent refreshes and my home hill has very limited grooming so im rarely skiing groomers.

However, i have reached an age where the sketchiness from dull edges on scraped off snow, or even legit ice is untenable, and with a freshly repaired shoulder i would like to have the reliable edge i have only ever known for the first few weeks on a new ski. I am not looking for a racers edge tuning/sharpening setup to maximize performance. I just want something beyond the $20 plastic hand tuner to keep my edges sharp, and to get an edge back on my 2-3 yr old skis.

Are there any decent All-In-One kits for under $100 out there that have just the basics in them? I checked on slidwright and Tognar and it seems like you need to part together a kit from them. Im just looking for something basic here. Any recommendations?

never mind.

Quick kit:

SlideWright Diamond Files-120mm Long-Core of (3) OR SlideWright Diamond Files-80mm Compact-Core of (3)

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SkiMan Pro Sharp (from 90deg to 85deg) with Ball Bearings

Ski visions sharpener is the best on the market in my opinion.

https://www.tognar.com/ski-visions-s...e-tuning-tool/

Get the pink stones and use them as your primary insert. They hone and polish the edge without removing material. Most of the time you just need a hone and don’t need to use a file to remove material.

https://www.tognar.com/fine-pink-sto...ki-sharp-tool/

Set the bevels based on the factory tune from your skis if you like the factory tune. If you don’t like the factory bevels you’ll need to use the mill files that come with the sharpener to reset the bevels to your liking before using the pink stones.

Get a grey gummy stone to detune tip and tail after you sharpen.

https://www.tognar.com/swix-soft-gummi-stone/

Last tip- you can pop a ski boot into your bindings to keep the brakes out of the way if the brake spring is too strong for a rubber band.

This thing: https://www.tognar.com/ski-visions-s...e-tuning-tool/ has been keeping my edges sharp for many years. out of stock at tognar but I'm sure you can find it somewhere

Kevo beat me to it.

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Originally Posted by AlpiNord

Quick kit:

SlideWright Diamond Files-120mm Long-Core of (3)

+

SkiMan Pro Sharp (from 90deg to 85deg) with Ball Bearings

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Perfect, thank you! This should be all i need to to keep my edges in decent-enough shape? Does this also handle the base edge, or do i need something separate for that?

The Ski Visions tool that is recommended by the other posts seems to handle both?

Should add that this article has everything you need to know about sharpening with the ski visions sharpener- https://www.slidewright.com/skivisio...e-tuning-tool/

Note the section that talks about needing to build “slip” into your edges for 3D snow. I very much agree with that.

I can’t say enough good things about the ski visions tool. I use it all the time and I prefer my edge work with that tool over most shop tunes.

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Originally Posted by californiagrown

Perfect, thank you! This should be all i need to to keep my edges in decent-enough shape? Does this also handle the base edge, or do i need something separate for that?

The Ski Visions tool that is recommended by the other posts seems to handle both?

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Once the base edge angle is initially set you don’t sharpen it again, just deburr on the base edge which you don’t need a guide for.

Only time you’ll need a base edge guide is to re-set the base edge angle after a grind, which is something the shop can do for you.

The ski visions sharpener is currently out of production sadly

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Originally Posted by strange meadow lark

The ski visions sharpener is currently out of production sadly

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that's a bummer, that thing is money. glad I have one.

Whatever you do, don't touch the base angle, maybe just use diamond file to lightly touch the burrs. Otherwise you'll end up with 3 degrees base

Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by strange meadow lark

The ski visions sharpener is currently out of production sadly

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Noooooo.

I just bought a bunch of stones for it from Tognar so I can keep it going for years to come. Very sad.

https://www.slidewright.com/dp/tools...edger-ceramic/

Works great.

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Originally Posted by californiagrown

Perfect, thank you! This should be all i need to to keep my edges in decent-enough shape? Does this also handle the base edge, or do i need something separate for that?

The Ski Visions tool that is recommended by the other posts seems to handle both?

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Thank you. As far as ‘decent shape’, I’m grinning from ear to ear after a great day thanks to basically that set up and conditions.

Sounds like a good time to post again this old video of my son when in middle school:

https://youtu.be/yQw4vH18ksM

Regarding SkiVisions SkiSharps, stones will continue to be available. I’m checking on getting the tune sticks back. I’m not sure how available files will be going forward. Mark Sewell is hanging in there, but is not making the SkiSharps. I’m making the base flatteners (both high base and high edge).

As mentioned, focus on side edges only and only deburr base edges.

Edit: The SkiVisions SkiSharp has been a favorite for decades as a user friendly, multi-angle side and base edge tool. The downside is that you are limited to the proprietary 1" x 1" stones and files. Other edge guides allow you virtually unlimited choices for files, stones & diamonds.

Sent from my iPad SlideWright Ski & Snowboard Tools

Just buy a real edge guide and a moonflex 400 diamond file. Better yet a 200, 400, 600. Spring clip to hold the stone on. Some sharpening spray lube. If you just need one guide all in is still about $100.

These are excellent. I just lucked out and picked up 2 more SVST 93's with the stainless plate from the estate of a friend that passed for race skis. I use 92 on my Brahma 88, Enforcer 104, 91 on powder boards. It is nice to have several 93's for tuning race skis, you don't have to keep switching files.

https://www.slidewright.com/dp/svst-...el-wear-plate/

https://www.slidewright.com/dp/diafa...00-grit-100mm/

I use a super smooth ceramic stone on the base edge. One pass with light pressure to debure after sharpening.

Yeah, it’s funny, if you want the simple solution, just get the real pro tool.

All of the multi angle all-in-one kits just complicate it.

For most skis you need a 2 degree bevel and that’s it. I don’t really see a benefit to 1-degree on a powder ski and while carving skis are better with tighter edges, they work fine with a sharp 2 if that’s all you have.

Then you can use whatever diamond stone and file you want. And they are easier to use well than a lot of the universal tools.

Eventually you will also need a way to plane back the sidewall. I usually find you can just do this by hand with a metal scraper.

I have the Toko version of this.

https://www.slidewright.com/dp/SkiMa...Ball-Bearings/

It would be tough to beat the versatility for 40$, and they are stupid simple to use. I can even fit one of my knife sharpening diamond stones in it for touchup work.

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Originally Posted by strange meadow lark

The ski visions sharpener is currently out of production sadly

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Ebay search with notifications in case a used one pops up on there for sale.

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Originally Posted by Kevo

Last tip- you can pop a ski boot into your bindings to keep the brakes out of the way if the brake spring is too strong for a rubber band.

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Vacuum belts work great for keeping the brakes secured. Couple bucks at Walmart.

You guys not using files on the base edge? Do you not hit rocks? And you don't experiment with different angles? And certainly hit that side edge with a file! Quickest way to get an edge with a bite. Not sure what everyone is afraid of here...its just an edge. File the hell out of it. Skis will be rock boards before you have to be concerned about anything extreme going on with your base or edges...unless you're racing gates for the US ski team.

Files are great for resetting an edge but they will bounce over burs and nicks. Fine diamond stone first, then file, then back to the diamond stone to finish.

So for the question asked, touching up edges between visits to shop for a full tune, fine diamond stones and an edge guide are great. Get the file if you want reset the edge between tunes at the shop.

No, don't use files on the base edge. Unless you have a ski that is fucked and you are trying to reset it with a base bevel guide. You can only go one way and it is the wrong way if you want an edge. Base bevel is usually set at the shop after a base grind. Then left alone.

Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk

I’m using stones with a one degree base edge guide on my base edges. I rarely take a file to my base edge. What am I doing wrong and why?

I’ll use a file more often on the side edge.

I’m also flattening and structuring the bases fairly often with the ski visions tool.

Except for my groomer zoomers, I’m one degree both edges. Groomer zoomers have a three degree side edge.


Argh

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Originally Posted by jackstraw

You guys not using files on the base edge? Do you not hit rocks? And you don't experiment with different angles? And certainly hit that side edge with a file! Quickest way to get an edge with a bite. Not sure what everyone is afraid of here...its just an edge. File the hell out of it. Skis will be rock boards before you have to be concerned about anything extreme going on with your base or edges...unless you're racing gates for the US ski team.

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Files to hit a hardened ski edge is the wrong tool. If you have hit a rock or some metal then the area should be hit with a stone if it is not hardened or a diamond stone if it was hardened due to a rock strike.

A few advantages of a multi-angle edge guide:

• measure the edge angle: use a Sharpie to ink the edge and run the guide with a stone along the edge. Adjust the angle to remove ink evenly across the edge to get a match.
• adjust edge angles: using a 2nd cut, bastard or 100X diamond (see old crappy video below I uploaded)
• cut back side walls: use a coarse or pansar/radial/body file or Ultra Coarse 60x Diamond file with angle set a 7°
• use as a scraper sharpener: set angle to 0° and use a pansar/radial/body file

https://youtu.be/gnshcukS28g

Changing side edge bevel angles 1° removes only a little material. Using a 2nd cut or bastard file on the 1st edge is only a little faster than using a 100X Diamond on the the other edge. Note using a Sharpie to ink the edge will show you if the edge angle matches the guide you are using to achieve the bevel change. If the ink comes off across the edge, there is a match. If the ink is removed only partially, then you'll need to keep cutting more material to match the desired bevel angle.

https://www.slidewright.com/Edges/increaseSBto3.PNG