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https://www.armadaskis.com/en-us/art...texr-outerwear
read this article and curious if this applies to all shell jackets goretex or not?
have a few relatively newish non goretex pants/jackets that need a wash and curious if I should follow the instructions in the article or just wash and then spray with nikwax or whatever?
good chance this has been addressed before but I couldn't find anything
Yeah, that applies to all of the goretex competitors as well. Just wash that shit.
And then dry it--if the stuff is relatively new and hasn't been washed before, then you shouldn't need to spray as the heat will be enough to reactivate the DWR. But be aware that all new DWR is worse than old (nasty chemical) DWR.
You can buy expensive Grangers or NikWax detergent, or you can buy this stuff for a fraction of the price: https://www.amazon.com/SPORT-WASH-LA.../dp/B001OPJ5OW
The second dry cycle seems unnecessary if the first dry cycle is long enough...most people overthink the whole "gear washing" thing. This stuff is meant to take a beating. A washing machine (especially a front-loader) isn't going to hurt it, and neither is drying on low.
Only exception is like...non-membrane packable rain jackets (like Marmot PreCip) you can wash those things but it really will shorten the lifespan. They are just plastic and glue...no pores to clog and heat/abrasion will eventually just destroy the PU coatings. Bigger thing with those is making sure to let them dry out after use.
Atsko is the shit. I wash all of my technical outerwear, my merino wool and hunting clothes in it. I then apply 303 fabric guard on my technical outerwear to restore the DWR 303 is the best aftermarket spray on application I have found.
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Good link on the atsko wash.
Interesting that armada says use any liquid detergent. I always read powdered detergent. But $20 for that jug of atsko is a deal.
The dryer deactivation doesn’t seem to work after a while. And even new out of the box isn’t what it used to be. They changed the formula two years ago except for certain trade gear like firefighters from what it I read. Much like clearcoat aluminum car rims peel after a few years now.
303 is interesting. Cheaper than nikwax and I have some in the boat locker.
Any other ideas for spray on?
I think the second drying was more for people use let the jacket hang dry rather than a dryer the first time around. But I guess the second drying couldn’t hurt so that you’re sure the jacket is truly dry after the first round. Then second round is to boost the dwrQuote:
Originally Posted by singlesline
switched over to FRS 4 years ago. never tech washed it or dwr'd or anything. i did leave it in the bottom of a truck tool box for a month one time where an uncapped jug of coolant got spilled on it. found it drenched and figured it was fucked. ended up just washing it with some dish soap and its still going strong. never wetted out or nothing. kinda inexplicable but guess it just goes to show how bomber those things are. also, Micol strongly advises against washing or otherwise treating his jackets. don't know how applicable that is to other brands' products.
Mostly normal detergents have crap you don’t want…UV brighteners, scents, maybe some softeners, etc. They won’t destroy your gear or anything…use a second rinse cycle if you use normal Tide.Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Shot
Woolite Dark is the way to go if you are just looking for something available at almost every grocery store.
But the tech washes do actually do a better job on synthetics (including base layers, stinky fleece, etc. ) and you use so little that the big atsko jug lasts for years.
I would wash the piece in detergent using the automagic washer and then run it in plain water to wash out whatever soap or detergent I washed the piece in
I ran out of the water based spray DWR so I did half a beta shell in one brand and the other side in another brand right down the middle, I forget which brands but I could just look at either sleeve for the next 9 months and tell you which brand is superior, i would say its all the same shit
I tried the solvent based DWR but I couldn't decide if it was any better than a water based
but the water based did not cause cancer,
but only in California
a hot iron helps a lot to restore the DWR on your piece, especialy if you don't wana wreck your drysuit seals
And on that subject DON'T let your wife wash/ dry or otherwise touch your dry suit
be careful using the hot dryer cuz the heat can make the tape fall off your gortex
IME gortex is not really waterproof
edit: This is an old subject but i feel certain we can open it up apres edge dulling
you spray the 303 on while stuff is still wet or wait to dry? the nikwax stuff ive used in the past says to apply while still damp, but im curious if wash then dry then apply waterproofing is the way to goQuote:
Originally Posted by 2FUNKY
I think you wana check to see if a product is solvent based or water based, Nikwax/ grangers/ revivex and a few others are water based and i would spry them on a wet garment after the 2nd rinse in the washer.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcub69
ATSKO is solvent based and I believ you wana spray it on a dry garment ??
whatever you use watch where you are spraying it, I did my dry top on my treated wood deck with one of the waterbased products and i got an outline of my dry top on the deck which did wear off but after that i would put in on a clothes hanger and spray it hanging over my gravel driveway
i think there are a couple more threads on this subject, also try googling ATSKO
I’m a three-oh-three phanboi. Used their car products for years. Have been using the DWR for a couple of years. I like it.
Don’t spray it on your vinyl plank floor though. Makes it like Clark Griswold’s snow saucer in Christmas Vacation
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Apply to a dry fabric. Wash, rinse, dry then Spray two light coats, allowing to sorta dry in between. Let dry overnight in a well ventilated area. I use my garage with a drop cloth under the garments. I toss mine in the dryer on med heat to seal the deal.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcub69
ATSKO is a clothing detergent and NOT solvent based nor do you spray it on. You put it in your washing machine.
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There was a 5 gal pail of 303 at my drysuit gig, but I think its a different product made by 303
so alwasy read the label before you use or order the stuff on-line,
303 made latex last much longer
I’ve posted about it here somewhere… but I had a warranty return through gore directly. Some Norrøna gear had some bubbling, before Norrona had US distribution. The gore guy lectured me at length about care instructions, and they mostly mirrored what’s in that article. Use regular detergent, tumble dry, and don’t be afraid to wash it. Only difference was he did say dry on high heat, something that others have taken issue with and that I don’t personally do because it makes me nervous because of y’all’s pearl clutching.Quote:
Originally Posted by bearcub69
Anyways, he just worked there, but figured that’s about as straight from the horse’s mouth as you’ll get.
Also, at the time at least (this was a while ago) the gore warranty was legit. No bullshit, easy, and the pants were at least 4 years old.
MEC was for many years THE largest out door gear store in Canada with 50% of the market ( like REI eh ) they had their own brand Serretus ( I just found out Serretus is also a muscle ) their motto in an actual shinny paper catalogue which millions of Canadains read while sitting on the shitter used to say "wash it lots dry it hot " same for their micro fibre stuff,
the paper cataloge is gone, MEC are since down the tubes and canadians now infect their phones instead of a paper cataloge
So I've had tape come off so IMO/ IME don't use too much heat, you could use an iron or a heat gun for heat, if its GORTEX tm you might be able to get warranty
I've stuck tape back down with AQS and plasti-dip