Will a thumbtack seal.... Tubeless noob question

So just got back from a ride and see there is a thumbtack in my back tire ( Dissector 29 x 2.4) Holding air fine with it in, if I pull it out it leaks, so I put it back in for now , and it stopped leaking. I haven't topped off the sealant (think it was stans stock ) since I got the bike last September. I am a tubeless noob so don't know if sealant alone should seal off a thumbtack or if it needs a repair plug. I have plugs and a repair tool that I've never used before

So, should I add sealant ,pump it up and see what happens, or is a typical thumbtack too big and needs a plug?

Added to ask, if sealant alone will work, is it best to add it through the valve core or break a small part of bead and pour it in? How much to add to a 29 x2.4 on a 35mm rim?

2 or 3 oz through the valve core is my preferred option. It'll probably seal that up and either way you need to add sealant so you may as well try that first before using a plug.

Replace your sealant and it will seal...
3-4oz and I prefer to add via valve, but I have a screw on presta adapter with a tube that makes it easier that way, YMMV.
https://www.notubes.com/support-center/how-much-sealant

BTW, I replace sealant at the beginning of the season (Apr-May around here) and usually again in July/Aug.
Quick tip, if you end up in a bind with dry/low sealant add a couple ounces of water and spin it--can be a lifesaver.

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Originally Posted by John_B

2 or 3 oz through the valve core is my preferred option. It'll probably seal that up and either way you need to add sealant so you may as well try that first before using a plug.

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That sounds like a plan. Will the valve core get gunked up by just using the small 2oz stans bottle.
without a special injector?

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Originally Posted by Duffman

That sounds like a plan. Will the valve core get gunked up by just using the small 2oz stans bottle.
without a special injector?

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Yes...
I use a compressor to clean the valve after adding--otherwise you won't get the core out the next time.

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In addition to all of ^^^ that, if it still won't seal with extra sealant, just pop the tire off, clean the sealant off the area with the hole, and put a normal vulcanizing rubber patch on.

Sealant alone will definitely seal a thumbtack hole.

I went to the Stan's booth at interbike 18 years ago, Stan was there but we didnt talk to him intsead one of the guys demo'ing was holding a mtb wheel perched on a stool mounted with a richey 1.9

Buddy was sticking the tire with a piece of spoke in a broom handle. He would poke it 5 times in rapid sucession thru the beed, the tire would fizzle stans fluid and seal up in about a count of 10 so i asked how about the sidewall so he did the same thing on the sidewall with the same result.

He needed to pump the tire up every so often cuz he had put about 30 holes in the tire while we were talking to him so I asked how many tires does he go thru in a 3 day show and he figured he would have to change it before the last day, I'm not sure how much stans fluid he had in that tire but we were impressed

Another note on 'process'

Add sealant via proffered method
pump back up
wiggle spin and shake tire
put hole on bottom of tire
Wait a few
adjust pressure to preferred riding pressure
shralp

I met Stan, he was doing the same spoke punching demo. There are videos of him doing it. Stuff works. If not, do what toast said.


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Originally Posted by Duffman

Added to ask, if sealant alone will work, is it best to add it through the valve core or break a small part of bead and pour it in? How much to add to a 29 x2.4 on a 35mm rim?

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A point of clarification since you're new to this: You absolutely want to REMOVE THE VALVE CORE before you attempt to add sealant, and add sealant only through the valve stem without the core. It's basically impossible to add sealant THROUGH the valve core, it's too thick. A valve core remover cost a dollar or thereabouts. You might even have one on your valve cap if they're fancy.

It should seal that hole no problem. In the field, or at home, if you're dealing with a puncture, position the tire so that any liquid sealant has ample opportunity to get to it, and even 'hang out' there for a minute.

Ha, yes I have a valve core remover and was aware of that (worked in a shop like 25 yrs ago so not totally clueless, just newfangled stuff clueless )

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Duffman

Ha, yes I have a valve core remover and was aware of that (worked in a shop like 25 yrs ago so not totally clueless, just newfangled stuff clueless )

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Ah good deal, just making sure!

Modern tubeless setup is a huge leap forward.

If you have a compressor I would just pop the bead and pour a few ounces in and reset the bead with the compressor. It seems faster and less messy to me.


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Point of note: If you're adding through the valve stem then you need to use the normal Stans formula - the original - and not the "Race" version which has big chunks in it. Those get stuck in the valve stem, which appears to be their only purpose.

Don't forget to add glitter... If you're fancy like that.

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Originally Posted by scmartin69

Don't forget to add glitter... If you're fancy like that.

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Gold is the glitter of choice.

I’m looking forward to this thread triggering the annual debate over optimal processes and paraphernalia for adding sealant. Excellent content for a lurker like me


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If it’s especially tough bacon can do wonders in addition to sealant. For thumbtack would expect fresh sealant to work alone


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Not sure if this video is still around but in the early days of tubeless, Stan had a video of a 6' or so board with nails every few inches. He would ride laps over that board, sounded like a machine gun.
Literally hundreds of punctures with minimal air loss.
This was way before mtb tubeless plugs were a thing.

Stan's Path of Death:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FTlZvOVG8zs

I’m also fairly new to tubeless and recently added more Stan’s for routine maintenance. A few days later I was getting ready for a trip to ride and the tire was flat. I thought I messed the valve up in the process and might have overtightened it causing a leak. Messed around with that, but it wasn’t the problem. I finally dipped it in a tub and found air leaking from a spoke. I reverted back to a tube for the trip, but would like to go back to tubeless. Do I just need to retape? The wheel came tubeless ready so I didn’t do the initial taping.


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Yes, that is usually indicative of a tape failure.
Not always, but usually.

Yeah, 90% chance that's a tape issue. 8% it's a valve core not properly seated. 2% it's something weird like a cracked rim.