Improvement Tips for the Mezzer Pro
I originally posted his in the Mezzer WTB thread but thought it might be useful on it's own.
The Mezzer Pro is (correctly) highly regarded and is my current favorite. That said, there are three mods I do to my Mezzers that take them to the next level.
1) Reshim the compression damper.
This made a huge difference. The one complaint with this fork is trail chatter. Mezzers, IMO, are over damped and benefit greatly from a lighter tune. I removed one shim and everything got better. I'm not a small rider (180lb) and this allowed me some actual compression adjustment rather than leaving it wide open.
Doing this is actually a far easier process than it sounds but if you're not comfy doing it, any shock service company can do it for you.
Here is a link to the teardown procedure and the shim you want to remove:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wBQ...mwdRtFSNc/view
And some helpful Mezzer tuning info:
https://www.mtbr.com/threads/manitou...-tech.1177011/
Reshimming made an even bigger difference with my 110lb wife's bike. I have a recommendation from Manitou on what shims to change for an even lighter tune for her. PM me and I can send it to you.
Link to 3D printed 16.3mm shaft vise jaws you'll need for this:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1007578...most-forks-and
2) Lube oil on the top side of the air springs; both main and IRT.
I noticed that on longer rides the fork seemed to slowly get harsher. This got me thinking of possible causes. (My background is hydraulic engineering) While there is open bath lube splashing in the lowers there really is nothing to lube the air spring seal as it cycles up and down. This problem is exacerbated on longer rides as heat builds up.
I remembered on older Fox forks they recommended adding about 5cc of their Float Fluid to the top side of the air spring to create a small open bath lube on the seal. This seemed a perfect solution. This way, the air spring seal (and side wall) is constantly being lubed as it cycles. This both helps the seal last longer and (more important to us) dramatically cuts down on stiction. Another benefit to the Mezzer's air spring is that there is plenty of empty space above the piston at bottom out for the oil to reside. Just pull the IRT out (Make sure to deflate both IRT and main chamber first) and add the lube. I use about 10cc. You want to fully cover the piston but not the extended middle section. That will protect against the oil affecting the travel. Then reinstall the IRT piston and add some to the top of it, again, fully covering it.
I use the Fox Float Fluid because it's great stuff but any open bath lube will work fine.
Caveat to the above procedure. Due to the Mezzer's unique process of positve/negative airspring chamber equalization, where a valve opens between them when the pump is connected, you must tilt the fork back, beyond horizontal, when pumping/adjusting the fork air pressure to keep the positive chamber (above piston) lube from becoming negative chamber (below piston) lube. PITA? Kindof, but worth it.
3) Burnish the bushings.
This is the process of sliding a perfectly sized hardened tool through the bushings to both perfectly size and align them.
There is a guy on the interweb who sells these burnishing kits for $180. Yes this is pretty pricy but I'm lucky enough to have a bud who has one with the 37mm attachment (He's actually the guy who turned me on to the Mezzer). Check around. I'd guess there are people who buy these and will do yours for a nominal cost. I'm pretty sure my guy will if you send him your lowers. Let me know if you're interested and I'll ask.
Anyway, it's a quick easy procedure and you can immediately see the results. After removing the air spring and damper, I let the upper slide into the lower with gravity. After burnishing, I did the same. Big difference. After the burnishing, it slid far smoother and faster.
YouTube of this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6JOS58P2UU
Anyway these are the tricks I've found to tweek a really good fork into an amazing one.
