Therre's enough information about the operation itself, as well as lodging, etc. in Silverton here:
http://www.silvertonmountain.com .
Generally, the lift ticket is more expensive ($129 for the required guided skiing), but hotels and food are much, much cheaper than other ski towns ($25 dorms to $100+ B&Bs).
But here's some notes about getting there:
Flying:
A) Into Denver. This requires a 7+ hour drive.
B) Into Durango. This is usually expensive, but the airport is a little more than an hour away from Silverton. Sometimes there's deals, but you have to watch closely. The driving route goes over Coal Bank Pass and then Molas Pass. While not totally trivial, theses passes don't close nearly as often as Red Mountain, North of Silverton.
C) Into Albuquerque. This is a lot cheaper than Durango, but requires a 5+ hour drive. This driving route goes through Durango.
D) Into Montrose, Grand Junction or even Gunnison.
These are all on the expensive side and require a drive of over 2 hours, going over Red Mountain Pass, which closes when there's a significant storm.
Skiing:
First, get there on time (before 8:30). Go up to the tent and fill out your release forms and get whatever gear you may want together (beacon, shovel, probe, pack). Be sure that you bring lotsa water and the food you want up from town. Resources for water and food are limited.
Second, Assemble in the parking lot and be patient. They have a lot to do. Be straightforward about your abilities and they'll try to put you in a group of others with similar abilities.
It's really, really, really good if you have a group of 8 people of similar spirit and ability.
Paramount is having folks that can listen to the guide and be patient in addition to knowing that all 8 in your group are of similar caliber.
The more relaxed you are, the better the whole day will be. Attitude is everything and will be rewarded with the goods.
Hope that helps. I'm pretty sure I've answered all the stock questions about going there that I can. As for the experience, opinion varies. If you don't want to be guided, don't go. Personally, I've had kickass times every time I've gone.