I ride a 9 foot longboard . I ride progressive shapes and surf it like a shortboard, but friday I came to the realization that I need to go back to shortboarding when needed.
I went up to Oceanside and really wanted to surf. It was foggy so I couldnt see much of what was out there but I was too lazy to go up to San O.
I was looking for a chest/head high fun day . What I got was head high booming beachbreak. Ok , but mostly pig dogging on a log all morning so no big roundhouse cutbacks, ect.
On about my 8-9th wave , hoping I make it down the line I had a thought
Why not go back to shortboards when the surf is this hollow? Might be better to have more ability to pull in and enjoy than to keep worrying about my Log hitting someone
So, Im in the market for a new board.
I tend to go a bit long, my current "Short Board" is a 7 foort M3 Channel Islands. It seems slow to me. I had a nice 7'2" Epoxy Thruster I loved, but broke it a couple years ago.
Cant decide if I should try a fish or just search for a 6'8"-7' thruster