Replacing ski boot buckles the hard way- nuts and bolts of it....Part II

This Part II of an essay on ski boot buckles and hardware... Part I is HERE

Caution: Long winded

The nuts and bolts of it.

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The Nuts and Bolts

Last but not least is the nuts and bolts that hold everything in place. These frequently corrode and are hard to remove- especially on the forefoot buckles. Never walk around with your buckles undone- this allow floppy open buckles to catch on stuff causing premature wear and breakage. If you have your boots on they should be buckled up at least 80% tight- but that's a post for another day.

Number 1 is a prong nut with a domed Allen head screw. Usually these are 2.5mm and 3mm Allen heads. I always like when I'm able to use the hardware with the rainbow tint. Maybe an engineering mag can chime in on what this coloring is. Whenever I have to go to NAPA for a grade 8 bolt, they always have this yellowish hue. It makes me think ski boot hardware with the same hue is of higher quality than just plain silver-looking ones. There are also circular nuts that don't have the prongs, but they don't seem as popular.

The number 2 bolts are different- I call these t-nuts. The left one has a flat top Phillips screw and the right one is a domed Allen head. Used incorrectly, domed Allen nut may prevent the buckle from closing all the way- allowing it to pop open under pressure. This is the numero uno fault among inexperienced bootfitters. Check carefully to see the nut is not contacting the buckle in a place that prevents full closure- effectively propping it open. As soon as hard-charging skier guy loads the boot in a good flex, the buckle will pop open. Not good.


On number 3 you'll see smaller prong nuts with Phillips screws. Again one has that desirable “hardened” finish and one does not. These strip easily, and when stripped, they are difficult to remove. Getting the right sized Phillips head is important. I've found that JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screw drivers are best. JIS screwdrivers are commonly used in bicycle shops. Hozan, a manufacturer of Japanese bicycle tools, makes some nice cheaper JIS screwdrivers.

Number 4 are some older high quality bolts that have a variety of uses. They can be used to hold spoilers in place as well as booster/power straps. Beware: cheaper versions of these nuts are actually rivets and unscrew halfway then get stuck. Lots of swearing ensues.

Important to note: Many times the buckle is designed to have a conical Phillips (or Allen head) hold the buckle in place correctly. If a domed head is used, the buckle can slide around underneath it and wears the plastic prematurely. The height of the nut can prevent the buckle from fully closing.

A tale of two cuffs.

When looking at boots, take a look to see what hardware is bolted on and which is riveted on. Rivets are cheap and they suck. Often they are difficult to replace. When drilling a rivet to replace a buckle, the rivet begins to spin and can easily damage the cuff plastic. Inexperienced bootfitters drill a rivet and remove it by pushing it through the friction-heated plastic with high speed rotation. The hole in the ski boot shell is now larger, More importantly, the hole in the shell is now larger than it should be- making failure more likely.

Below are pics of the same boot. On the left is a Rossignol Experience 130 and on the right a Lange RX 130.

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Here an interior shot:

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The buckles on the Rossignol sure felt lighter and cheaper than the Lange. Fit and finish on the Lange were nicer as well. Sure one cost $750 and the other was a mass production pro form boot, but the difference was noticeable.

I've tried numerous times with different rivet tools to replace the hinge rivets. It's nearly impossible, however, I've made a few work, but most of the time, replacing the entire buckle is easier.

Mentioning the buckle/ladder width issue again, it's important to take a look at the width of the ladder to see if it will fit well with the new part you're replacing. Sometimes the catch rail/pin isn't the correct shape for the ladder- check before installation.


The Atomic Tool

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And just to be different, Atomic put Torx heads on much of their hardware. Look closely at the cuff hardware- charging in there with an Allen wrench won't cut it. Sometimes nuts are aluminum or pot metal and instantly strip out. This is another opportunity for copious swearing. In the past Atomic would include this great little tool with higher end boots. Perfect for for keeping the nuts tight. I used to have big jar of them, but gave them all away. I only have one now. If Atomic put a bottle opener on this tool- everyone would hold onto them.

Miscellaneous notes: If just the frame of a buckle is bent, I don't always replace a buckle- I can take it off and using an anvil and a ball peen hammer, gently reshape it to the contour of the boot. The contour of the buckle or bail has to match the contour of the boot. Too many times, I've seen the replacement buckles just sticking out into space- not matching the shape of the boot, creating a hot area when the buckle gets cammed into the boot, causing a pressure spot on the foot.

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I got a nice set of Wera hex-plus Allen wrenches before the start of the season. I have Wera screwdrivers I use as shop tools, but the hex set is new to me. I first heard about them on a Youtube channel – German Tool Reviews – there is a great video about them. I believe the "hex plus" feature gives them additional holding power in softer Aluminum/pot metal nuts and those that have been corroded/rusted.

If you've made it this far, you must either really like ski boots or buckles. Or if you're like me, tired of crappy snow and are believing the weather will turn just around the corner.

Also look in gear swap for my replacement buckle kits.