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Would consider for the wife. If I can pay good money to not hear another thing about how the shifting isn't perfect or how the shifter has stiffened up by 2% ...............
Just need to get past the cost of a broken RD ............
And maybe use a SRAM cassette ............
Winter time foods for thought :you rock: :fuckyou:
I have ultegra Di2. I love it- although I'm coming off a mid 90's dura ace groupset, so a lot has changed. But IMO it's awesome and i am stoked every time i use it. Just get a computer thatbis compatible with the e tube system so you can keep track of the battery life (which is excellent, and the charge time is 4 hours!)
I have two Di2s setups on road bikes and have rode, and built many Di2 Mountain bikes.
I will never go back to mechanical on the road, and if i was building a new XC bike I would go Di2 in a heart beat. Perfect shift every single time. Charge the battery 2 times a season (every 1500kms).
You can program synchro shift if you want a 2x and only one shifter. You can have a display box showing what gear you're in.
If you have a cross chainer or a shift masher, the Di2 will solve all of their problems. Easy to set up and no maintenance after that.
To break a Di2 RDs really need to be bash it, tear it off type crash to break it. The crashes and rock smashes that wreck a mechanical RD don't have the same effect on a Di2 RD.
Mostly interested if it works well for 1x mountain rigs.
I keep reading about how the batteries last for months. Surprised they aren't smaller. Not knowing how heavy they are, my inclination is to lean toward a smaller lighter battery that only lasts a half dozen rides.
I never see the batteries advertised for sale. Do they come with another part, like the shifter or RD?
All the di2 parts are sold separately. Its nice to build and buy only the parts you need. For a 1x MTB set up you will need: RD, Battery, Shifter, Display port (or A-junction) and 3 e-tube wires.
Battery is not that heavy, i think 55g. The tricky part is placing the battery if you have a dropper post, if not the seat post is the best spot for the battery.
The battery also has a smart chip in it to control the system, so its not that easy to rig up a smaller and lighter battery.
Why is that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Because a servo moves the derailleur, and not a cable pull. its one less axis to get get tweaked and make the shipping sloppy.Quote:
Originally Posted by dfinn
So, can you bend a Di2 RD and still get good shifting? Because it's all intuitive and shit?
interesting. I wonder if this actually makes it more sturdy in the real world. I don't need di2 and usually manage to get pretty reliable shifting (I've held out on going to 11 or 12 speed setups) but I've got a few friends that have it and I kind of wish my bike made that futuristic noise every time I shifted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs
Spitballing: If you bend a mechanical RD, it's nearly impossible to set the cable tension so that it will put the RD in the right place across the whole cassette. If I understand the shift mapping and auto-trim features of Di2 correctly, that doesn't matter on a Di2 RD since it just moves the servo as needed to put in the right spot for each gear.Quote:
Originally Posted by jm2e
Di2 RDs also sense impact forces and instantly disconnect the servo motor so it doesn't get roasted, this might help with a unimpeded motion that would mitigate bending of bits.
There is a crash recovery mode that recalibrates the RD - just gotta make sure the hanger isn't bent badly enough to send it right into the spokes.
So can I just buy a derailleur and shifter, slap it on my mt bike and throw this gx shit in the parts bin?
Yep. SRAM GX AXS.
Not Transmission, that needs a new cassette and chainring.
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